Lessons learned from my Kicker Key Amp install.

JoeDirt

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Posting this to hopefully help out someone having the same issues I ran into.

I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 using a plug and play kit from Plug N play kits. It was expensive but for ease of install it was worth it. I didn't need to run any extra wires. It was truly a click-in and go kit.

I installed the Amp above the glovebox on the metal support bar and secured it using velcro and zip-ties. I upgraded all my speakers to JBLs.

Now for the issues and the fix. The Amp was clipping at very low gain settings, like just above minimum would clip around 25 volume level. All of my dash/warning sounds changed to the annoying
backup cluster chime.

The fix was simple I had to use forscan to change the Variable Line Level Audio to low level outputs. In the ACM 727-01-01 (xx50 xxxx xxxx). After changing that one line my chimes return to the speakers, and my clipping issue went away. I could now turn the gain on the Amp up to where max is as loud as I can stand with zero distortion and headroom left on the Amp, so it could be louder.

It's unfortunate that you need forscan to do simple things but I guess that's the way it is with computerization.

Sub will be next.
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jvm051

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Good information to know. Have you decided how or where you will tap into to add your sub?
 
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JoeDirt

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Good information to know. Have you decided how or where you will tap into to add your sub?
When I ordered my key Amp and harness, I ordered the #8 kit that includes a line out adapter and remote 12v turn on wire. All I have to do is run my RCAs, remote wire, power and ground. I'm probably going to get one of the powered compact subs. JBL, Infinity, or Kicker. Just need to find a company local so I can hear them.
 

jvm051

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When I ordered my key Amp and harness, I ordered the #8 kit that includes a line out adapter and remote 12v turn on wire. All I have to do is run my RCAs, remote wire, power and ground. I'm probably going to get one of the powered compact subs. JBL, Infinity, or Kicker. Just need to find a company local so I can hear them.
Nice, sounds like the route I want to take then. So to just run the kicker amp with the harness you purchases it is plug and play? No power wire needed?

Suppose I will have to figure out how to get into forescan as well.
 
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JoeDirt

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Nice, sounds like the route I want to take then. So to just run the kicker amp with the harness you purchases it is plug and play? No power wire needed?

Suppose I will have to figure out how to get into forescan as well.
Yep, when you order from that site he pulls the wiring harness from the Amp box, puts it together with a pass through harness. So all the end user has to do is click it in place. No extra wires needed.

I know you can buy the pass through harness on Amazon to make it yourself for around $40. For me it was worth the extra cost he charges for ease of install. Wiring is not my thing.
 


jvm051

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Yep, when you order from that site he pulls the wiring harness from the Amp box, puts it together with a pass through harness. So all the end user has to do is click it in place. No extra wires needed.

I know you can buy the pass through harness on Amazon to make it yourself for around $40. For me it was worth the extra cost he charges for ease of install. Wiring is not my thing.
I just purchased mine today. Did you end up running the DSP feature with the amp? Doubt that is really needed since you have to go into Forsacan.

On the subject of Forscan, is it pretty straightforward? For the change in that line, there is not a button to "enable or disable" I have not been in it yet. Apparently I need to figure it out quick.
 
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JoeDirt

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I just purchased mine today. Did you end up running the DSP feature with the amp? Doubt that is really needed since you have to go into Forsacan.

On the subject of Forscan, is it pretty straightforward? For the change in that line, there is not a button to "enable or disable" I have not been in it yet. Apparently I need to figure it out quick.
After reading more about what the Amp is capable of I doubt I needed to use forscan. Dsp would have probably done the same thing. That said forscan can be a little confusing to use but once you figure out how it works it just "clicks". The line numbers will make more sense once you fire it up and start looking around.
 

Diver Eric

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Are the chimes super loud after installing the kicker key? I just installed one in my truck and the dang chimes are now amplified as well, drives me nuts.
 
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JoeDirt

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Are the chimes super loud after installing the kicker key? I just installed one in my truck and the dang chimes are now amplified as well, drives me nuts.
They were at first, then after a key cycle they went to the internal dash speaker. After making the changes in forscan, everything went back to normal.
 

treshebert

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Sub installed. Not a bad unit for $200 but don't expect to wake up the neighbors, just feel and hear the lows better.

IMG_20210915_182730.jpg
Does your seat close easily with the sub in that location? I have my Kicker Hideaway Sub in the cutout where the B&O sub would be but I couldn't use the mounting brackets that came with it.
 
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JoeDirt

JoeDirt

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Does your seat close easily with the sub in that location? I have my Kicker Hideaway Sub in the cutout where the B&O sub would be but I couldn't use the mounting brackets that came with it.
I have mine in the same place, I made a custom bracket. Closes with no issues. My MOLLE caused more issues.
 

treshebert

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Where did you put the Kicker Key? I have mine in the cubby hole under the back passenger side seat but it seemed pretty warm after driving around for a couple if hours last night.
 
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JoeDirt

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Where did you put the Kicker Key? I have mine in the cubby hole under the back passenger side seat but it seemed pretty warm after driving around for a couple if hours last night.
Mounted to a bar under the dash, behind the glove box.
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