You need to purchase a ball mount and a hitch ball. Many forum members are finding that they need a ball mount with a 6” drop and maybe more depending on the trailer.
Hi RB,You have a class 3 hitch. It would be good to spend some time researching what you need beyond a "what do I need" general post.
Below is an image which will help you understand the classes.
And yes, the info above is correct, for a smallish size trailer or something which you don't want to have at an extreme angle, you will need a 6" drop hitch (hint: research how a "drop" is measured). You will be vastly better off for having done a few hours research into the subject than just being told what to do..... Had you bothered to give us enough information to actually answer your question in the first place, which you did not.
I made the same mistake. I have the trailer sway button but thought I had the tow package. If you buy the hitch and wiring harness you can add it in, I'm considering going to the dealer and having them do it just incase. I wanted to put on the weathertech bumper step.
The only thing the tow package adds is a 2 inch hitch receiver and a seven pin trailer electrical connector. (Your truck already has a 4 pin connector, and can add a hitch ball to the bumper for towing.) To add accessories you definitely need a receiver. You can either buy the ford version (so it will end up looking like a factory tow package) or you can get a third party version which will hang lower under the bumper but will cost much less. It's a fairly straightforward install for the third party version (bolts on to the frame) or you can get it done at pretty much any towing shop (even u-haul). The ford version is much more involved, and includes replacement parts for the bumper so that the hitch can sit higher. If you look around on this site you can find pictures of both, including installation notes. You can google for Curt C13417 as an example, they're usually less than $150. The tow rating is a bit lower than the OEM or other third party hitches, but if you don't plan on towing more than 6k pounds it's the cheapest way to add bike racks, etc.
That is not quite accurate. The Curt hitch does have a 6,000 lb tow capacity (lower than the OEM) and a 900 lb tongue weight rating (greater than the OEM). However, the rating when using a weight distribution hitch climbs to 8,000 lbs for towing and a 900 lb tongue weight.
Anything that's above OEM is a meaningless number. Manufacturer's note says "Trailer hitch weight ratings are limited to vehicle manufacturers stated capabilities." So the 900 and 8000 pound numbers are ratings for a hitch not attached to a ranger. I don't really understand what goes into Curt's web information, but it's a mess. They also call it class 3, but class 3 has a max of 5000lbs. I think someone contacted them and was told the web site was wrong but clearly that's not a priority. I'm also skeptical of the ratings if the OEM hitch is 7500 regardless of wc or wd, but the Curt part gains 1500 (nominally 2000) pounds with wd--it makes me think they're slapping a generic label on without actually testing the application.That is not quite accurate. The Curt hitch does have a 6,000 lb tow capacity (lower than the OEM) and a 900 lb tongue weight rating (greater than the OEM). However, the rating when using a weight distribution hitch climbs to 8,000 lbs for towing and a 900 lb tongue weight.
Mike,
I think what you are referring to is the tow/haul button which changes shift points
