Has anyone done a complete 2019 Ranger oil/filter change by themselves yet?

fusseli

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No matter how gnarly the oil change gets I will end up doing it myself once the dealer freebies run out. Only way to guarantee done right and highest quality parts, and cheaper. Fender liner clips are like two bucks a bag at Autozone, just grab a bag of new ones and add it to the cost of a change. Easy.

That new Tacoma oil change is just bizarre. I've never seen anything like it. It defies logic, too, I have seen convenience oriented designs on Japanese cars, like putting the oil filter in the open right up front under the hood, whereas this is alien and industrial equipment like.
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dmeyer302

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I give engineers a lot of slack; even when things get frustrating there's usually a reason behind it. And yes, sharing an engine between multiple models/platforms is a valid reason that causes some problems.

But this one is totally unforgivable. Every time I open the hood of my 14 Escape I just want to smack somebody.

The coolant fill cap is under the cowl. No amount of funnel wrangling at angles is enough to get it in there. BUT DO YOU SEE THE OTHER 75% OF THE EXPANSION TANK THAT IS NOT UNDER THE COWL?????

sheesh

[not my picture]
2013-Ford-Escape-Titanium-2.0L-Ecoboost-014.jpg
 

RedlandRanger

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I give engineers a lot of slack; even when things get frustrating there's usually a reason behind it. And yes, sharing an engine between multiple models/platforms is a valid reason that causes some problems.

But this one is totally unforgivable. Every time I open the hood of my 14 Escape I just want to smack somebody.

The coolant fill cap is under the cowl. No amount of funnel wrangling at angles is enough to get it in there. BUT DO YOU SEE THE OTHER 75% OF THE EXPANSION TANK THAT IS NOT UNDER THE COWL?????

sheesh

[not my picture]
2013-Ford-Escape-Titanium-2.0L-Ecoboost-014.jpg
That part needs to be redesigned - at least for the Escape. I think they should make the engineers actually work on the cars after they design them. It would reduce issues like this.

Phil I think your experience in the racing world makes a HUGE difference in what you design and how you design it. My son is a budding mechanical engineer and I told him the best engineers are the ones with practical experience. Even though it may look good on paper, but if it doesn't work well in the real world, it isn't a good design.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Phil I think your experience in the racing world makes a HUGE difference in what you design and how you design it. My son is a budding mechanical engineer and I told him the best engineers are the ones with practical experience. Even though it may look good on paper, but if it doesn't work well in the real world, it isn't a good design.
Hi Rob,

I was a mechanic in a local VW garage while attending University of Central Florida for my undergrad degree. I found out quite fast when hired into Ford how this experience would help me in my various jobs. When I had people working for me, I had a set of Craftsman combo wrenches (metric) and when one of my engineers had a design of a new part, I handed him/her a proper sized wrench and we headed to the Design Review bucks and had the engineer show me the part could be removed. Most of the engineers handled the wrench like it was an instrument of torture. When the prototype part could not be removed by simple tools, I sent the engineer back to the drawing board to revise the design for tool access. At first, I was hated for this, but later almost everyone came around as they learned how to work on their own vehicles to some extent.

When I headed up a CAE area, the engineers there had no clue what the parts they were analyzing actually did or where on the truck they were installed. For example, my steering column analysis engineer, Dr. Ziqi C. had no idea of what the column attached to at the other end from the steering wheel...ie the intermediate shaft. So realizing this, I decided that our engineers would get involved with the Bldg 4 test lab engineers. This lab is where component durability takes place. For example...1,000,000 cycle door slam test. In Dr Ziqi, case we set up the complete steering system from the steering gear to the steering wheel...hydraulic motor to turn the system, lock to lock. running 24/7 until the objective cyclic bogey was met without any failures. What happened was the analysis engineers now thought of analysis of systems, not components and the analysis became much more accurate and we actually started driving the design of the systems. It was a huge leap and helped the design engineers get it right the first time out of the box, so to speak...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 

RedlandRanger

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My wife's C-Max needed an oil change and so I decided to do my first oil change on the Ranger today (a bit early - I have about 8100 miles on it and the oil iife monitor said 24% remaining). I figured changing it a bit early on the first change wasn't a bad thing. I had intended on getting the Fumoto valve but since I hadn't ordered it yet, I obviously wasn't able to install it. I'm on the fence whether or not I will eventually get it or not. It really wasn't NEARLY as bad as I thought it would be. The skid plate is REALLY easy to remove - 4 bolts. It is WAY easier than removing the "airflow pan" (I'm not sure what to call it) under my wife's C-Max. That has 8 torx bolts that need to be removed to get it off - the 4 bolts for the skid plate are a piece of cake compared to that. I may forego buying the Fumoto valve since taking that skid plate off is so easy.

The other piece that concerned me was the oil filter - again, that was a piece of cake. I turned the wheels all the way to the right (passenger side) and then removed 4 very simple plastic "bolts" and folded down the flap. Stuck an oil filter end cap on the filter with an extension and it came right off. The really cool thing was the little tray under the filter than caught all the oil and routed it away from everything - although I didn't know where it drained to at first and got a puddle of oil on my garage floor. Here is where the filter screws on and you can see the funnel/tray under it:

20191115_130455.jpg


It really was very easy to get to - you DEFINITELY do not need to remove the wheel to get to it.

Next was my original FoMoCo original filter (surprised it wasn't a Motorcraft filter):

20191115_130444.jpg


The oil change was actually pretty easy - a lot easier than I was expecting. I did end up rotating my tires, and I think that took longer than the oil change did. I ended up putting just shy of 6 quarts of oil in it - more than the 5.7 that the owners manual states. This engine isn't big, but it takes a LOT of oil! It almost overflowed my oil pan!

Anyway, if anyone is contemplating doing this, don't worry - all the "issues" that have been brought up have been blown way out of proportion I think. This was a pretty easy oil change I think.
 


Ranger #6

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I may forego buying the Fumoto valve since taking that skid plate off is so easy.

Anyway, if anyone is contemplating doing this, don't worry - all the "issues" that have been brought up have been blown way out of proportion I think. This was a pretty easy oil change I think.
:like::clap:
 

HenryMac

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I ended up putting just shy of 6 quarts of oil in it - more than the 5.7 that the owners manual states.
Thanks for the detailed information on your oil change.

FWIW: Current manuals state "6.2 Quarts"

Page 319 Capacities 2019 Ranger Owners Manual.jpg
 

RedlandRanger

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Thanks for the detailed information on your oil change.

FWIW: Current manuals state "6.2 Quarts"

Page 319 Capacities 2019 Ranger Owners Manual.jpg
Interesting. It does take a lot of oil for a small engine. 6.2 Seems more accurate to me.

Another cool thing I didn't mention was the ability to pull up the owners manual on my phone thru the FordPass app while I was working on it. When I rotated the tires, I looked up the torque for the lugnuts. It was really convenient instead of going back in the house to look it up on the computer - or I guess I could have pulled out the printed version. :)
 

Desert_5G

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It states 6.2L. And after I filled mine w/ filter it just took 6L and it lined up at the half way mark on the dip stick. I always let it drain for 30 minutes to get as much of the old stuff out as possible.
 

RedlandRanger

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It states 6.2L. And after I filled mine w/ filter it just took 6L and it lined up at the half way mark on the dip stick. I always let it drain for 30 minutes to get as much of the old stuff out as possible.
Liters? Or quarts? The updated manual says 6.2 quarts which is 5.9 liters. If you let it drain that long, I could see 6 full quarts being about right - there will always be a little left in the engine.
 

RPW

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Just changed mine - just under 3k miles. Break-in oil was completely black.

Process is much easier than it's cracked up to be. Took the four top plastic clips out of the wheelwell cover flap, oil filter is literally right behind it. Four 15mm bolts hold the front diff skidplate, which was a breeze to remove with an impact wrench. The oil plug was kind of awkward to reach, but it's got a nice rubber gasket on it - I see no reason to not reuse it. I'll check for any leaks - I left the skidplate off for now so I can keep an eye on it.

Used Mobil 1 Annual Protection 5W30 Full Synthetic, dexos 2 oil and a Motorcraft FL-910S filter.

We'll see how she runs with some nice new oil.
 

PvtZoller

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Just did my first oil change last night, just over 4,000 miles. I plan on 5,000 mile intervals for future services which should put me right at two per year based on my driving habits. Primarily local with minimal highway, occasional off road. Plenty of dirt and dust in the region. Most importantly it makes me feel better about it.

Oil filter situation is a non issue. I literally didn't move the tire. The oil spills out of the filter and down the very will engineered spout and into your pan. Hose it down with some contact cleaner and move on with your life.

Drain plug bolt is the same 15mm head size as the skid plate fasters which will need to be removed to access the drain bolt.

Oil was dirty as would be expected after 4,000 miles on brand new components. No abnormal odors, colors, or debris.

6.2 quarts as indicated in the manual seems dead on. Dumped a 5 quart jug in, then I measured the rest with a graduated measuring cup.

45 minutes from opening the garage to pouring my drink. This included plenty of double checks and such being the first service. Next one should be under half an hour no problem.
 

I_smell_like_diesel

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Change my oil at 8,000 miles today (drained factory oil at 1,000 miles). Found that a long transmission funnel works awesome to "guide" the oil into your drain pan. It's a tight fit but you can squeeze it in there. Would recommend it and can be had for a 10th of the price of a drain valve.
 

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Changed oil and and added the fumoto valve and extension. Easy process should only get easier. The valve will make the process 10000 times less messy.
 

rang19ca

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Did my oil and filter change Saturday and it was really simple. I like the oil filter drain funnel that is mounted to the frame.
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