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Ecoboost oil recommendation?

FX4Offroad

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New Oil Specification for GDI (Ecoboost) engines | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/new-oil-specification-for-gdi-ecoboost-engines.6097/



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SAZ Ranger

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The 2.3L only has one very high pressure injector which injects right into the cylinder, I wish we also had an injector in the intake manifold just behind the intake valve to wash the egr return gasses from building up on the back side of the intake valve. Almost all cars now use direct injection because its better for emissions but nasty on the intake valves. The real problem is mostly caused by cylinder blow by, combustion contaminants slipping by the rings and then down into the oil pan. The turbo is our friend and enemy. It pumps more air into the cylinder which causes more blow by. Our engines have an oil separator located under the intake manifold that is there to help, its like a catch can that requires not maintenance, but it doesn't catch it all (either do catch cans).
My solution is to not over use the turbo to reduce the rich mixture and the dirty blow by. The grunt/torque from the turbo is usually what stretches the timing chain. Doesn't mean you can't have fun with your turbo just don't race every car that pulls up along side of you. Every couple tanks run a tank of Shell or Chevron premium fuel and take it on the Hiway as often as you can. The other trick is use great oil like SN Plus rated and change it about every 5000 miles. There is a video below, its long, watch the whole thing. There is important information throughout the video, I think it will make a believer out of you, it did for me.
There are a lot of videos on youtube about direct injection and its problems. Most cars made in the last 5 to 8 years use direct injection. We will have to learn to live with it until something better comes along.
 

Techcargt

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For those of you wanting to know more about the new specs ,here is a place you can learn about it and what it's about . https://pqia.org/
 

slowmachine

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My local Walmart has the new Mobil 1 SP/GF-6 0W-30 in stock, but only in 1-quart bottles. I bought some, and will do an oil change with it in the next couple weeks.
 

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My local Walmart has the new Mobil 1 SP/GF-6 0W-30 in stock, but only in 1-quart bottles. I bought some, and will do an oil change with it in the next couple weeks.
Best part about Walmart is they stock motorcraft oil filters too. Atleast the ones that ive been to stock em.
 

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My local Walmart has the new Mobil 1 SP/GF-6 0W-30 in stock, but only in 1-quart bottles. I bought some, and will do an oil change with it in the next couple weeks.
Ecoboost requires 5-30,
 

slowmachine

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From the Owner’s Manual

“To improve engine cold start performance, we recommend that you use the following alternative engine oil in extremely cold climates, where the ambient temperature reaches -22.0°F (-30°C) or below.

Name Engine Oil - SAE 0W-30
Specification WSS-M2C953-B1”
 

J Haggerty (RADAR1)

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From the Owner’s Manual

“To improve engine cold start performance, we recommend that you use the following alternative engine oil in extremely cold climates, where the ambient temperature reaches -22.0°F (-30°C) or below.

Name Engine Oil - SAE 0W-30
Specification WSS-M2C953-B1”
Ha! I quit living in those places that get down to -22 a long time ago. When I was in Alaska, it got down to -57 once and although our work truck was plugged in and started OK, the rear axle and transmission froze up.
 

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From the Owner’s Manual

“To improve engine cold start performance, we recommend that you use the following alternative engine oil in extremely cold climates, where the ambient temperature reaches -22.0°F (-30°C) or below.

Name Engine Oil - SAE 0W-30
Specification WSS-M2C953-B1”
Please notice that the OP lives in South Florida, when it gets to -22°F there, we'll have other things to worry about.
 
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FX4Offroad

FX4Offroad

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  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Please notice that the OP lives in South Florida, when it gets to -22°F there, we'll have other things to worry about.
Yup. If it ever gets that cold here, oil is the least of my problems. Lol
 

slowmachine

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Note that nothing about this chart from the Owner's Manual says "Do Not Use In Florida."

The new SP/GF-6 oils are the most advanced available, and formulated specifically to address GDI engine problem areas. I would (and do) run the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 every day of the year, at least until something better comes along. Motorcraft should have reformulated oil that meets the new specifications very soon, but I don't want to wait for that to trickle down to the dealer service department. Your engine, your choice. This is mine.

0w30.jpg
 
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JimJa

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Every time the subject of oil (or gas) comes up a real food fight ensues. Everyone has their own opinion and everyone else is nuts. Please allow some input from someone that is likely one of the oldest guys on this forum and whose father was in the gas and oil business - I grew up with it.. ...but that said do what YOU want - it's important YOU feel comfortable with your decision about oil/gas.

- Ask yourself how long - YOU - expect to keep your truck. We all say "til the wheels fall off," but in reality, how long? I tend to keep a vehicle for about eight years and 150K-200K miles. Maintain for that time/distance.
- Everyone worries about the turbo, but turbos have been out for a long time time now, and since the manufactures began cooling the turbo bearings with water in addition to oil I haven't heard much about failures.
- 90% of engine wear occurs in the first 10 minutes from a cold start. You want an oil that gets to where it's suppose to go as soon as possible.
- Where the truck is physically going to be used is one of the most important things in selecting a grade. Hot or cold climates are something you should pay attention to. Not so much if you live in SoCal, for example. Never too hot or too cold there so there is very little thermal stress on your oil.
- Turbos get hot, really hot, and that includes the bearings. You do not want an oil that will "cook," ultimately reducing oil flow to those bearings. It's why synthetic oils are better. They maintain their ability to lube at much higher temperature. Remember our turbos turn about 50,000RPM at idle, and slightly less than 200,000RPM at WOT. It's why start/stop is a concern with a turbo engine
- Something you may not know, but makes sense if you think about it...ALL products from a given refinery come to you in the same pipe. Save for octane, gas is gas. It's up to the brands to add their "ours is better than yours" additive prior to point of sale. Most major gas brands these days are Tier III and ALL gas has plenty of detergent. Using a higher octane for a little more power or when towing (knock sensors allow a bit more timing advance), but my old butt can't tell the difference and I've never noticed a significant MPG increase using a higher octane. BTW, the main difference in winter/summer gas is the vapor point; easier starting in the winter, prevention of vapor lock in the summer. It takes at least 20 miles or more to warm up the transfer case, transmission and diffs oils. When it's cold that represents the main reason your MGP is less in the winter - it's not the gas itself. Go on a long trip in the winter and see for yourself.

I use AmSoil 0W-30 ("W" means it has passed the winter flow test and is why you will not see the W on 40 weight or higher oils) only because it's easily available mail order and it can be VERY COLD here in the wilds of WY. I've seen it minus 45. Yes, it's expensive but after the first order there is a 25% discount/year, making it a bit more reasonable. Another good one is Pennzoil Ultra. There are others too, you decide. I have a life-time warranty provided by the dealer on all three of my Ford turbo engines but certainly don't want an engine or turbo failure. All were purchased new and oil/filter changes have been 5,000 miles, 10,000 miles and every 10,000 thereafter. 65,000 miles on the wife's Escape, it has no oil consumption, and MPG gallon is the same as when purchased, everything is fine.

But, the important thing is for you to be at ease with your purchase and how frequently you change your oil/filter so these data point are just FYI. Do as you like.
 

Amsoil guy

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I’m going to use Amsoil Sig. Series 5W30 . Meets and exceeds all the specs
 

slowmachine

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I use AmSoil 0W-30 ("W" means it has passed the winter flow test and is why you will not see the W on 40 weight or higher oils)

I think that one reason we argue so much is that it’s difficult to sort through the torrent of misinformation and marketing hype. I think people make better decisions when they are based on factual information. I have been using several generations of this 0W-40 oil in Volkswagens for a long time.

8D210DE0-4BD2-40FC-830D-A57813B290F8.jpeg


And this one was developed specifically for C7 Corvettes.

84840041-79BD-4362-B49A-B9DF3E1D64F4.jpeg
 

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