Do I need UCAs?

CHIEF1893

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Good Morning fellow ranger owners,

I have a 2019 Ranger sport 2WD, i recently put on the Falken AT3 265/70/17 and really like the look plus not affecting MPGs. I would like to go with the Eibach Pro Truck Lift with 3in front lift and set the rear to 0. I wont be looking to off road just want less bounce and such. These UCAs are very expensive considering when I had a jeep Rubicon years ago, which i had lower control arms to adjust castor, pinion etc. Being new to the truck scene, are UCAs needed to get proper alignment with a 3inch front lift for a 2wd application. Also i would like to be as level as possible and believe the 3 inches in front will almost get it there. Thank yall in advance. Have a Merry Christmas.
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doug910

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Good Morning fellow ranger owners,

I have a 2019 Ranger sport 2WD, i recently put on the Falken AT3 265/70/17 and really like the look plus not affecting MPGs. I would like to go with the Eibach Pro Truck Lift with 3in front lift and set the rear to 0. I wont be looking to off road just want less bounce and such. These UCAs are very expensive considering when I had a jeep Rubicon years ago, which i had lower control arms to adjust castor, pinion etc. Being new to the truck scene, are UCAs needed to get proper alignment with a 3inch front lift for a 2wd application. Also i would like to be as level as possible and believe the 3 inches in front will almost get it there. Thank yall in advance. Have a Merry Christmas.
Just a few things to note:
  • The Eibach 3" lift kit won't necessarily improve the ride as much as you might think. I've never driven a Ranger with the Eibach kit but you're going to have more body motion due to the higher CG and thus more "headtoss". It all depends on the shock valving, but I don't think it's going to be your "end all be all" solution.
  • For people that have lifted/leveled their truck to 3", it sounds like they can just barely get it aligned correctly and I worry about ball joint life in the UCA down the road. If you go with the Eibach kit, you're probably going to want UCAs.
  • Going with a higher quality coilover kit (Icon, Ford Performance Fox) might fit your needs a little bit better. This allows you to determine your ride height with better quality shocks to truly help with ride. Lifting your truck 1 - 2" up front will minimize the increase in headtoss (as opposed to 3"), give the truck a bit more of an aggressive stance without killing your MPG's, and you won't have to buy UCAs. Even though the coilover kit is more expensive, they're better quality and you won't have to buy UCAs if you stay in the 0 - 2" range.
 

Bonchexmix

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Just a few things to note:
  • The Eibach 3" lift kit won't necessarily improve the ride as much as you might think. I've never driven a Ranger with the Eibach kit but you're going to have more body motion due to the higher CG and thus more "headtoss". It all depends on the shock valving, but I don't think it's going to be your "end all be all" solution.
  • For people that have lifted/leveled their truck to 3", it sounds like they can just barely get it aligned correctly and I worry about ball joint life in the UCA down the road. If you go with the Eibach kit, you're probably going to want UCAs.
  • Going with a higher quality coilover kit (Icon, Ford Performance Fox) might fit your needs a little bit better. This allows you to determine your ride height with better quality shocks to truly help with ride. Lifting your truck 1 - 2" up front will minimize the increase in headtoss (as opposed to 3"), give the truck a bit more of an aggressive stance without killing your MPG's, and you won't have to buy UCAs. Even though the coilover kit is more expensive, they're better quality and you won't have to buy UCAs if you stay in the 0 - 2" range.
I disagree on the center of gravity point, I installed the FOX Stage 1 3" lift along with BDS UCA's and the difference is night and day. No shimmy feelings on the highway, no diving when coming to a stop sign, etc. Made the head toss better actually. It's also now perfectly level.

However, OP should be careful with bigger tires. I got 285/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grappler's with 1" wheel adapters and I think with all the extra rotating mass (must be at least 10-15 pounds/corner more) the ride got a little worse, mostly when going over bumps. Not terrible, and I love the look now, but not as good as the stock tires with the lift. It's a lot more weight that the suspension has to handle.
 

doug910

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I disagree on the center of gravity point, I installed the FOX Stage 1 3" lift along with BDS UCA's and the difference is night and day. No shimmy feelings on the highway, no diving when coming to a stop sign, etc. Made the head toss better actually. It's also now perfectly level.

However, OP should be careful with bigger tires. I got 285/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grappler's with 1" wheel adapters and I think with all the extra rotating mass (must be at least 10-15 pounds/corner more) the ride got a little worse, mostly when going over bumps. Not terrible, and I love the look now, but not as good as the stock tires with the lift. It's a lot more weight that the suspension has to handle.
I said it all depends on shock valving/tuning. The Fox kit is going to have much better quality shocks so it can negate the inherent issues that arise when you raise the CG. You also upgraded your control arms which could have altered suspension geometry to improve anti-dive properties.

You no longer have a apples to apples comparison as you are comparing ride height (CG), shock valving, and suspension geometry now.
 


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I do have Eibach's lift kit but I'm running stock front springs instead so I'm at around 2.25-2.5 lift. Nevertheless, I was able to have the front camber set at zero with stock UCA. So to answer your question, you don't need an aftermarket UCA:)
 

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I do have Eibach's lift kit but I'm running stock front springs instead so I'm at around 2.25-2.5 lift. Nevertheless, I was able to have the front camber set at zero with stock UCA. So to answer your question, you don't need an aftermarket UCA:)
Same here Eibach Kit using stock springs. Lift 2.25 front None in back. The back is one inch higher than the front, Rake I can live with, I would install the Eibach again.

EibCH LEVEL.jpg
 

Msfitoy

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Same here Eibach Kit using stock springs. Lift 2.25 front None in back. The back is one inch higher than the front, Rake I can live with, I would install the Eibach again.

EibCH LEVEL.jpg
Look great! Did you add a block at the rear? Mine's pretty level (1/2 higher than front) with stock front springs set at the highest perch...I wanted to leave some rake so I don't go nose high when I'm weighted down on the bed or towing...
lQkrbNH.jpg
 

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Look great! Did you add a block at the rear? Mine's pretty level (1/2 higher than front) with stock front springs set at the highest perch...I wanted to leave some rake so I don't go nose high when I'm weighted down on the bed or towing...
lQkrbNH.jpg
I did not install a block in the rear. IF I wanted to go three inches I would have installed a 1" block lift in the rear.
I used stock springs instead of the Eibach Springs. I did not want to raise the back another inch,

love your wheel and tire set up. I was going to install a more aggressive-looking tire but it's only a 2WD. I don't want it mistaken for a 4x4. Also I like that your Sport trim pieces are the exact match to the body paint as well the wheels. On any other color, I would prefer BLACK trim pieces rather than grey.,
 
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No upper a arms needed with any lift up to 3”. Anything over 3” you will need a upper a arm to correct proper geometry.
 
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I said it all depends on shock valving/tuning. The Fox kit is going to have much better quality shocks so it can negate the inherent issues that arise when you raise the CG. You also upgraded your control arms which could have altered suspension geometry to improve anti-dive properties.
The Eibach kit is just rebadged Bilstein 5100 as for fox having better valving. That’s only the case in the upper lever fox shocks. The $1400 kits that you see everyone using is just an entry level kit. They don’t ride any better then the Eibach kit aka Bilstein 5100.
 
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No upper a arms needed with any lift up to 3”. Anything over 3” you will need a upper a arm to correct proper geometry.
No upper a arms needed with any lift up to 3”. Anything over 3” you will need a upper a arm to correct proper geometry.
Not true!! Even a 2in lift on these needs UCA. They end up with 0-.3degs of +camber after you lift them. Ideally you should be around -2/0degs camber for best handling.
I have the Eibach 3/1 kit and I’m at .3+ in the front and it’s out of adjustment just like lots of other people. This issue is people see green on the alignment sheet and think it’s good. Because they don’t pay attention to the #s
 

I_smell_like_diesel

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Not true!! Even a 2in lift on these needs UCA. They end up with 0-.3degs of +camber after you lift them. Ideally you should be around -2/0degs camber for best handling.
I have the Eibach 3/1 kit and I’m at .3+ in the front and it’s out of adjustment just like lots of other people. This issue is people see green on the alignment sheet and think it’s good. Because they don’t pay attention to the #s

I have a 2 inch level on my truck and the dealer was able to align it spot on the factory specs, with OEM UCA's. There's a lot of adjustment on the lower control arm eccentrics.
 

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Not true!! Even a 2in lift on these needs UCA. They end up with 0-.3degs of +camber after you lift them. Ideally you should be around -2/0degs camber for best handling.
I have the Eibach 3/1 kit and I’m at .3+ in the front and it’s out of adjustment just like lots of other people. This issue is people see green on the alignment sheet and think it’s good. Because they don’t pay attention to the #s
2.5" Eibach lift, aligned with camber to zero...no problem here...stock UCA...
 
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I have a 2 inch level on my truck and the dealer was able to align it spot on the factory specs, with OEM UCA's. There's a lot of adjustment on the lower control arm eccentrics.
Just because it shows green does not mean it’s right. It’s just means it’s at the very limit of spec.

2.5" Eibach lift, aligned with camber to zero...no problem here...stock UCA...
zero my be in spec but put any weight in the back of the truck and now your camber goes positive.
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