DIY Installing Mishimoto's Radiator, Intercooler, Intercooler lines and Silicon Radiator Hoses

[FoD]

It took me a few days to complete the tear down and re-install as I usually worked about 4-5 hours when I could.

First off, I spent a bit of time looking to see what any and all had done prior, looking for tips/shortcuts that might not be mentioned and in anything you can find online. The better information seems to be on the forum and there are people who are willing to provide helpful information to questions if you search related threads. You'll see in all my attached posts below, answers I got to questions I had and they helped greatly. There is also lucky glimpses on Youtube where people are doing something entirely different, but have to work in the area you might be researching...for example, getting the grille off and the lower air dam piece below hood latch is one.

Work was on a 2019 Crewcab XLT, located on driveway, not on jacks.

Work was to remove and replace radiator without having to unhook A/C lines causing an extra expense.
Work was to remove and replace Intercooler.
Work was to replace radiator hoses and coolant.

Mishimoto's packing and parts are top quality and support questions (by email) were answered within a day or two.

Two (2) issues I had with the Intercooler -
First, the OEM O-ring for M.A.P. sensor was too thick to allow it to fit in the provided location. I purchased a replacement as you will see in posts.

Second, the OEM cool air in pipe is a smaller diameter than the Mishimoto's pipe. Both Hot and Cold require the use of the OEM retaining clips and the OEM cool air will catch two (at least) of the four slots for retention.
According to Benny at Levittown Ford, that clip is only available with the OEM pipe assembly and I was unable to find a suitable replacement online...only spent about 5 hours on that (like homework).

General issues -

The Ford Service Manual does not provide all info on what needs to be unhooked/removed and neither does the Mishimoto directions. So, if you take your time and come across those items not mentioned, you can work through them. None are major, only seem like it when you run into them.

Ford design changes that are not reflected in Service Manual, just have to work it through, nothing major.

Two shortcuts that do work -

Removing the fan shroud will allow you to tip back the OEM radiator and condenser so that you can unhook the condenser without having to mess with A/C coolant. The rubber A/C lines will allow enough flex...do it slow and careful.

You do not need to remove front bumper facia to get Intercooler in, but you do need to disconnect the 5 screw/bolts that hold it to the radiator frame and then reconnect after new Intercooler is in place. I had a factory torx head bolt that was stripped on the bottom intercooler brace which I had to hacksaw off by hand with just the blade. Fortunately, there was just enough room to get blade and hand in area and a washer behind head to take any saw marks.

I think that's it. I've had the replacements in and run for a few weeks. Surprisingly, the transmission seems happiest with the new setup... smoother too me, right off the bat.

Here are the posts previously made.

Thanks for looking - Terry

PS - these are the "Coolan8ors" Stay Frosty
*********************************

I contacted Mishimoto support with this question, but am posting here also to let the Forum members who have done the install provide any insights - My question is, do the A/C lines need to be disconnected to move the condenser off the radiator and if they do, then evacuation before disconnect and then an A/C service for charge/vacuum afterwards or just disconnect the in-out lines and remove radiator, install new one and reconnect?

Thanks.
Terry

Hi Bret (@Porpoise Hork ) and Mike (@Polaris130 ).

I have a question maybe you can help me with - I am upgrading the intercooler and radiator to Mishimoto's models on my 2019 crewcab xlt.

Since I am replacing the intercooler, is it possible after removing the intercooler and loosening the radiator, to unhook the condenser from the rad without removing the A/C lines and then reverse install the replacement parts (i.e. put in new rad, hook on condenser, finish mounting and then install intercooler)?

Thanks

Yes its possible you can do it that way. And don't be afraid to bend the ac aluminum skinny limes as long as you dont kink them at a 90 degree you can move and form them to make more room

Thanks, I'll post up on the results of this endeavor.

Mishimoto responded to the question this AM, their email to me:

"
Hi Terry,

Thanks for your email and for picking up our parts for your Ranger.

The AC condenser is bolted directly to the radiator, but they can be separated in the chassis without having to be removed completely. We recommend caution to prevent damage to either core, but once you've unbolted the radiator and condenser from each other, you should have enough room to slide the radiator out of the assembly and place the new radiator in without detaching the AC lines. Some customers may find it easier to pull the assembly out and unbolt the two from there once out of the truck, but since you're going to be installing the intercooler as well, you'll have the OEM intercooler out of the way and will have more room to detach the AC condenser and maneuver the radiators in and out as well.

If you have any other questions please let us know!

Thanks,

..."

So, lot of information between the three of you (@Porpoise Hork @Polaris130 @Mishimoto ), thanks again .

Just finished getting the "top" pieces out and away, no broken tabs, no lost screws/bolts...so far.
I'll remove intercooler after lunch and drain radiator as I move to undo radiator and condenser.

I had forgotten about the two side clips on the grill and couldn't (for the life of me) see what was holding it back. Decided I would take a look at manual just to double check, sure enough...duuuhhh!

Hi Bret (@Porpoise Hork ) and Mike (@Polaris130 ),

Another question for you two if you don't mind.

Is there a secret to getting the air lines to release on the intercoolor after you release the springs?

I undid the hose on the back end and that took the hose pick to loosen a bit and then I could twist/pull off. But the front can't twist because of the guide pin for the metal ring.

Thanks.

Make sure you fully released the metal c clip and then wiggle it out. As you force it out pull and push upp and down

Well, that was a neat trick, took all of two seconds to unhook.

Thanks again

So, today got the intercooler out, radiator fluid drained, hoses disconnected, radiator unhooked and best of all, condenser unhooked but still fully connected. Removing the fan shroud gave plenty of room to tilt back the radiator and with the intercooler out, condenser was right there...release the tabs and slide up until loose and then sit down in well. Rubber connection lines allowed the "slack" necessary (tilt radiator/condenser assembly into fan area maybe 4-5").

Only "HUGE" issue was trying to find the lower shroud bolts/nuts that the manual, directions and Ford parts said was there. Turns out it is not a threaded clip nut, nor a bumper bolt, but just a plastic snap in that depresses for release. After a couple of hours screwing around trying to feel the bolt head, I finally got my wife's mirror to see what I was not...took two minutes after that to release the shroud and pull out from the bottom.

Intercooler out

parts pile with top shroud out now

Shroud's out, hoses gone, radiator unhooked and condenser unhooked from radiator.

stay turned for further adventures of "What the Hell?!"

Radiator's out now, had to take air inlet off air box, don't remember seeing that anywhere either, but certainly gives room to lift out radiator and move condenser slightly left to do so.

Today's adventure so far:

Tagged everywhere that something was unhooked/removed.
Installed bottom radiator hose and connected to engine under throttle body.
Installed new intercooler (right side) elbow.
Installed radiator.
Connected condenser.
Thread chased a radiator bung for bottom shroud mount.
Have to wait for sun to move now...

Another view

Radiator/condenser installed/mounted.

Todays exciting issues:

Set screw for condenser top mount wings: passenger side is a "finagle" as the AC lines hinder direct screw in.

Check radiator bung threads beforehand - (4): had issue with one of bottom shroud ones and it was a staller.

Overall, Mishimoto's quality is excellent; shipping & packaging are excellent!

More adventures to follow.

The "Slaga" so far:

Finally got it in place and started to do the walk back to reattach all that needs to be reattached.

Prior episode was where I could not get the unit in (because I was cheating and thinking I could bypass some things - like disconnect bottom support brackets, facia removal...) and found the 7mm bolt behind the wheel lip molding that needed to come out...and of course, I didn't have a 7mm flat wrench, just 6 and 8.

Got it, undid them, took out inner support brace bolts, ready to peel it off...maybe but, didn't have to...removing the bolts from support provides enough give to slip in (these are the 5 bolts that in each of the support brackets.

Undoing the bottom intercooler supports brackets, found a factory T-30 pan head (typical find...tight space, oblique angle, can only reach from below, you know usual holdup to anything you're doing ) with a stripped torx. So, there is no way I can get in there to pound a slot or larger torx in; can't grab it with a bolt remover (the Irwin type that you hammer onto the head); no channel locks. Fortunately, my Krell like brain solves the issue, take a metal hack saw blade and remove the head (especially since there is a washer between head and bracket). Only took 6 hours and no, don't have a shop air sawzall.

Anyway, that was yesterday afternoon. Today, wrangled back in and start re-hooking items. Grabbing a sandwich and then I'll go hook up the in/out air lines for intercooler - did hook up the quick disconnect to radiator while I was looking at stuff...one less item to do

I suspect that I will be filling radiator and "burping" it tomorrow.

The story "Slaga's" on!

And...the O-ring on the MAP sensor is too thick for the unit to fit snug against the intercooler housing. Went over to ACE and picked up a thinner version and fits nicely and I can "feel" Oring snugging in. Sent question to Mishimoto describing the issue and what I replaced OEM Oring with and asked if it would be an issue - rather find out before I restart engine than afterwards LOL!!

Didn't try as there was a good "pinch" of it above the rim (probably 15-20% of thickness maybe - too much "doo-lap" over the belt line

As far as bore size, I brought the OEM intercooler over and inserted the MAP sensor, slid right in. When I replaced the Oring, it did the same "feeling" on the Mishi, so the replacement was a #6 7/16 OD 5/16ID

The "Slaga" continues:

Today's "fun discovery" - the cold side pipe retaining clip (what is the name of them?) is smaller than Mishi's and you are supposed to move the clip(s) from oem to Mishimoto...not today

Looks like the hot side clip is correct size for both Mishi sides.

The Slaga today:

Took mine out of the driveway mekanek role and drove it around. Been almost two weeks since I started it up and actually got to drive it...man, I did miss it once I got back into the drivers seat.

Finished installing the cold air pipe, grill and cover pieces, adding coolant, running the recommended restart procedure for coolant refill/air removal for the new radiator. A/C nice and cold, no drops, dribbles or running fluid under car or around hoses or engine compartment.

Went to grocery store, bank and drove around the ocean for it's initial drive.

Grill work hides the "M" unless there is direct light in, which there isn't right now.

I do have to say the the grill took about 5 seconds to go back in as opposed to coming out

(PS - Gorilla glue works great if the double sided tape on the foam fails)

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[dondonbabyraptor]

So it seems it’s a bit of a process to change out the radiator huh… not a simple quick bolt on? The coolant they sell intrigues me, is that what you purchased as well? The synthetic or regular coolant?

 

[FoD]

So it seems it’s a bit of a process to change out the radiator huh… not a simple quick bolt on? The coolant they sell intrigues me, is that what you purchased as well? The synthetic or regular coolant?

If you are just doing the radiator, I suspect that about 2hrs is all you'll need and not unhooking the A/C lines.

Drain radiator, do the grill, the fan shroud, unbolt radiator, unhook condenser, swap, reinstall... the Mishimoto directions are OK on it.

Used the Liquid Chill Synthetic Premix, got 4 gallons, took 2.5-2.75 to fill. Used Service Tech Manual directions for the "old fashion" way of adding fluid...copied below:

Filling and Bleeding without a Vacuum Cooling System Filler
1. Drain radiator

2. Close the radiator drain valve.
3. Install the bolts and the front skid plate.
Torque : 22 lb.ft (30 Nm)
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4. Fill the degas bottle to the MAX FILL line.
5. Recommended coolant concentration is 48/52 to 50/50 engine coolant to distilled water (freeze
protection -34˚C to -37˚C [-30˚F to -34˚F]).
6.
l For extremely cold climates (less than -37˚C [-34˚F]):
l It may be necessary to increase the coolant concentration above 50%.
l NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
l Maximum coolant concentration is 60/40 for cold weather areas.
l A coolant concentration of 60% provides freeze protection down to -50˚C (-58˚F)
l Engine coolant concentrations above 60% will decrease the overheat protection characteristics
of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
7.
l For extremely hot climates:
l It is still necessary to maintain the coolant concentration above 40%.
l NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%.
l Minimum coolant concentration is 40/60 for warm weather areas.
l Engine coolant concentrations below 40% will decrease the freeze and corrosion protection
characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
8. Vehicles driven year-round in non-extreme climates should use a 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -
34˚C to -37˚C [-30˚F to -34˚F]) mixture of engine coolant and distilled water for optimum cooling
system and engine protection.
9. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Page 9 of 11
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10. Turn the climate control system off.
11. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
12. Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
13. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not
unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is
hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when
the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal
injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on
the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the MIN FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
14. Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the
thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
15. Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
16. Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
17. Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
18. Repeat steps 15 through 17 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.
19. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not
unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is
hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when
the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal
injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on
the degas bottle.
20. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
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Copyright © Ford Motor Company
Page 11 of 11
file:///

 

[dondonbabyraptor]

If you are just doing the radiator, I suspect that about 2hrs is all you'll need and not unhooking the A/C lines.

Drain radiator, do the grill, the fan shroud, unbolt radiator, unhook condenser, swap, reinstall... the Mishimoto directions are OK on it.

Used the Liquid Chill Synthetic Premix, got 4 gallons, took 2.5-2.75 to fill. Used Service Tech Manual directions for the "old fashion" way of adding fluid...copied below:

Filling and Bleeding without a Vacuum Cooling System Filler
1. Drain radiator

2. Close the radiator drain valve.
3. Install the bolts and the front skid plate.
Torque : 22 lb.ft (30 Nm)
Page 8 of 11
file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/XOPLAST_10500/SKG~us~en~file=SKGG2032275.HTM~gen~r... 9/18/2021
4. Fill the degas bottle to the MAX FILL line.
5. Recommended coolant concentration is 48/52 to 50/50 engine coolant to distilled water (freeze
protection -34˚C to -37˚C [-30˚F to -34˚F]).
6.
l For extremely cold climates (less than -37˚C [-34˚F]):
l It may be necessary to increase the coolant concentration above 50%.
l NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
l Maximum coolant concentration is 60/40 for cold weather areas.
l A coolant concentration of 60% provides freeze protection down to -50˚C (-58˚F)
l Engine coolant concentrations above 60% will decrease the overheat protection characteristics
of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
7.
l For extremely hot climates:
l It is still necessary to maintain the coolant concentration above 40%.
l NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%.
l Minimum coolant concentration is 40/60 for warm weather areas.
l Engine coolant concentrations below 40% will decrease the freeze and corrosion protection
characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
8. Vehicles driven year-round in non-extreme climates should use a 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -
34˚C to -37˚C [-30˚F to -34˚F]) mixture of engine coolant and distilled water for optimum cooling
system and engine protection.
9. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Page 9 of 11
file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/XOPLAST_10500/SKG~us~en~file=SKGG2032275.HTM~gen~r... 9/18/2021
10. Turn the climate control system off.
11. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
12. Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
13. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not
unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is
hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when
the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal
injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on
the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the MIN FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
14. Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the
thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
15. Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
16. Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
17. Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
18. Repeat steps 15 through 17 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.
19. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not
unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is
hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when
the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal
injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on
the degas bottle.
20. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Page 10 of 11
file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/XOPLAST_10500/SKG~us~en~file=SKGG2032275.HTM~gen~r... 9/18/2021
Copyright © Ford Motor Company
Page 11 of 11
file:///

You are amazing. This makes me want to purchase, now that you cleared my unknown anxiety about it all. Love ya Terry

 

[FoD]

You are amazing. This makes me want to purchase, now that you cleared my unknown anxiety about it all. Love ya Terry

Mod baby, spend!! Don't forget the damper too!??

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