DIY: Adding the 12V Power Outlet Option in the Bed

[BCRanger]

I completed mine today. Best of all, it was free since I had all the parts already from a previous project I never completed. Works great. I just tapped into the existing wiring. I did cover the wire taps with electrical tape after the picture was taken. Easy job.

So looks like you just tapped in before the outlet. I was thinking about rigging something to use the existing pins, but your approach is simpler. Something that threw me is that the wires look like they are 14 gauge or there about. For reference, my aux battery box came with 6 gauge and my solar input is 10. (It's becoming clear that my overland battery setup is probably waaay overkill, lol.)

Anyway, the chart below seems to indicate that for that length of run you'd want 10-12 gauge.

http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/

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[BCRanger]

Sorry to spam, but DRAT, realized this won't work. My DC-DC draws 25a constant and no way to set it to take less. And putting a larger fuse in even just an extra 5 amps doesn't seem prudent.

Back to the drawing (pun intended) board..

 

[RoadBoss]

Thanks to both of you. I don't see the actual option in the table on thread..but I'm sure I could find it and yeah maybe I don't need to change this at all which would be awesome.

A bit off topic, but the DC-DC already detects input voltage and stops drawing below a threshold, but the issue there is that apparently with the Smart Alternator sometimes it doesn't take power when it should because the voltage will drop down into the 10+ range. But that may be just the case when coming right off main battery. It all doesn't quite make sense to me tbh ... if you're tapping directly into the battery and the battery is charged to say 12.5v, I can see how the alternator alone could be putting out 10.5v but how would it cause voltage from main leads to drop to 10.5v? Wouldn't it reflect the voltage of main? Falls into the category of electrical stuff I feel like I should know but don't, lol.

Voltage is the same across the whole system, minus the voltage drop due to wire length/resistance. you can't have a different voltage at the battery than at a different part of the 12v system.

 

[RoadBoss]

Sorry to spam, but DRAT, realized this won't work. My DC-DC draws 25a constant and no way to set it to take less. And putting a larger fuse in even just an extra 5 amps doesn't seem prudent.

Back to the drawing (pun intended) board..

For my DC-DC, I ran 10 gauge from the battery (through a fuse) straight to the DC-DC. I tapped into the outlet in the bed just to get the switched 12v signal to turn the DC-DC on and off. This switched input wasn't necessary for mine, but without it I found that sometimes even after the truck was off it would continue charging the aux batteries until the voltage dropped to a certain point.

 

[BCRanger]

For my DC-DC, I ran 10 gauge from the battery (through a fuse) straight to the DC-DC. I tapped into the outlet in the bed just to get the switched 12v signal to turn the DC-DC on and off. This switched input wasn't necessary for mine, but without it I found that sometimes even after the truck was off it would continue charging the aux batteries until the voltage dropped to a certain point.

Yeh I was thinking same, use the posi lead as signal for DC system and then do 10 gauge (or 6 since it came with system). What route did you use from engine bay to back of truck?

 

[BCRanger]

Voltage is the same across the whole system, minus the voltage drop due to wire length/resistance. you can't have a different voltage at the battery than at a different part of the 12v system.

That's what I've always thought which is why I was so confused: Then why does the presence of a smart alternator make a difference to whether charging occurs? Assuming the smart alternator still wants to keep the battery well charged, the output voltage of the alternator shouldn't matter. Or ... is it the weighted sum of the various inputs and outputs?

 

[RoadBoss]

That's what I've always thought which is why I was so confused: Then why does the presence of a smart alternator make a difference to whether charging occurs? Assuming the smart alternator still wants to keep the battery well charged, the output voltage of the alternator shouldn't matter. Or ... is it the weighted sum of the various inputs and outputs?

The smart alternator doesn't try to keep the battery well charged, which is the problem. It will run happily at 12.5 volts for a long time before it decides to charge the battery. A old school solenoid charge controller won't do anything unless the main system is above about 12.8 volts, but a DC to DC charger will calculate based on the aux battery and main battery voltage and make sure they are both getting properly charged. The DC-DC should, in theory, also make sure the main doesn't get drained too low, but since I'm using a cheaper unit I don't really trust it, and having the DC-DC switched hasn't proven negative in any way so far.

 

[RoadBoss]

Yeh I was thinking same, use the posi lead as signal for DC system and then do 10 gauge (or 6 since it came with system). What route did you use from engine bay to back of truck?

Nice, 6ga should be better. I just routed it along the frame rail. I went down from the engine bay near the steering shaft and then ziptied it to the wiring harness that follows the frame rail.

 

[BCRanger]

The DC-DC should, in theory, also make sure the main doesn't get drained too low, but since I'm using a cheaper unit I don't really trust it, and having the DC-DC switched hasn't proven negative in any way so far.

This National Luna system I bought seems really nice. They provide great docs and you can just tell when a company puts real care into their products.

It will monitor battery and keep from draining it but the issue as I gather is that it doesn't know when it's safe to pull. What their system does is take the positive lead and if it is on it sets a lower threshold. Turn on/off goes from 13.2V/12.6V to 12V/11.5V.

https://www.nationalluna.com/product/nldc-25-dual-battery-isolator-and-charger/

 

[RoadBoss]

This National Luna system I bought seems really nice. They provide great docs and you can just tell when a company puts real care into their products.

It will monitor battery and keep from draining it but the issue as I gather is that it doesn't know when it's safe to pull. What their system does is take the positive lead and if it is on it sets a lower threshold. Turn on/off goes from 13.2V/12.6V to 12V/11.5V.

https://www.nationalluna.com/product/nldc-25-dual-battery-isolator-and-charger/

That system looks fantastic

 

[Trigganometry]

Guys, intelligent charging as set in Forscan only charges battery to 75% of capacity. You can change that. I’ve been running at 90% for a few months now. No adverse effects. Just something to be mindful of if your drawing power when truck is not running. Reserves are way less than you think at factory settings

 

[UtahShooting]

LOL cant remember how thread started!
But having went with Wolfhaus I can say its a very clean plug and play install, requires no hole cutting and has the option to have a pig tail tap added for another power circuit for things like bed lights.
Ethan has made a really nice product. Some might argue its $$$, BUT its quality construction and we are supporting a fellow Ranger/Forum member trying to make a living and help us all out at the same time. Well worth the cost IMHO.

Heavily leaning towards Wolfhaus for my Ranger. Like the clean installation and that it Is above folding storage unit I'm going to install on bed side.

Curious as to what others are using optional pigtail for? I may want supplemental lights low on bumper. Would these tie in for his or is there a better solution for that, that is switched from inside cab?

 

[SVTPaul]

Heavily leaning towards Wolfhaus for my Ranger. Like the clean installation and that it Is above folding storage unit I'm going to install on bed side.

Curious as to what others are using optional pigtail for? I may want supplemental lights low on bumper. Would these tie in for his or is there a better solution for that, that is switched from inside cab?

Depending on your need/desire, you could also tie into the cargo light circuit? (if running a lot of power draw, can supply power with a relay). I plan to add bedlighting soon with some courtesy lighting under the rear bumper tied into that circuit as well.

 

[JesseS]

Guys, intelligent charging as set in Forscan only charges battery to 75% of capacity. You can change that. I’ve been running at 90% for a few months now. No adverse effects. Just something to be mindful of if your drawing power when truck is not running. Reserves are way less than you think at factory settings

Can you point to where the setting is in Forscan?

 

[BCRanger]

An update on my DC-DC system. All installed and working great. *Major* PITA to actually get the wires from the battery to charger but that's a story for a different thread.

So far it seems to be charging just fine off battery main even without the National Luna system wire lead for detecting ignition setup.

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