svache
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Mods: I'm unsure whether I'm posting this in the correct section, or if it should've been posted in the interior or exterior mods section. Please move if you feel it's better suited elsewhere.
I've seen dashcams come up a few times in discussions, especially those where there was damage to a truck either through vandalism, theft, or accidents. I mentioned in one of those I'd upload some photos of my install, but I figured I'd give it its own thread instead.
In my Ranger I have a Thinkware F770 dual cam, in my other car I have a Blackvue 750s dual. They're both in the same price range. They are both in the upper price class, but I think it's recommended to do this due to the higher video quality at both bright and dark settings, and also to be able to see details like car registration plates. They have similar specs but there's certain aspects I like better in the Thinkware. For example, I live in Hawaii and both cars are usually always out in the sun, heat can be an issue with cameras and since they both record when parked (I have set them to record motion), it is essential they both continue to record. The Thinkware has done this without any problem at all, the Blackvue has stopped recording two or three times in the few years that I owned both of them due to heat, but did always start recording after the temperature in the car was brought down by a few degrees. Anyways, if you're in a hot area with lots of sun, it's definitely key to keep in mind that there are a lot of cameras out there, but plenty will stop recording when it gets too hot. Another thing I don't like about the Blackvue, although it's minor, is that the volume of the camera is a lot more quiet (and more robotic) than the Thinkware. I dislike this for the simple fact that when the camera turns to driving mode from parking mode, it tells you if there was any impact, motion etc. It's good to know what has happened around the car when I was away. Another minor annoyance with the Blackvue is that it switches to driving mode from parking when it detects the vehicle to be in motion, whereas the Thinkware simply switches between the two settings based on whether the ignition is on (that is, if you picked the right fuse to tap).
Both my camera systems getting their power from an external battery pack. They last for about 24-48 hours, depending on the settings and whether you have one or two cameras. I have set both my cars to motion, so they don't record the entire time, with cameras back and front this makes my batteries last for a little more than a day (also depending on the amount of motion, of course). The battery I'm using with the Thinkware in the Ranger is an older Cellink battery, the one I'm using in my other car is a Cellink Neo, which is a newer battery pack with better specs. What I especially like about the latter is that you can connect to it with your phone through bluetooth and see how much juice it has left, if it is charging or discharging, how long charging takes etc. Charging with both of them only takes a few hours of having the ignition/engine on, if you drive on and off throughout the day, you'd easily reach that.
Both my systems were purchased through Blackboxmycar.com. Although I highly recommend them based on past experiences, there's plenty more spaces where you can purchase dash cams of course
The way I have them installed, in both cars, is as follows:
I use a fuse tap (I use this one in both my cars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) on a fuse that is only on when the ignition is turned on. You can test this by using a volt meter. Also make sure the positive and negative are correctly wired or you'd bypass the tap (you'd draw power without going through the fuse), making the fuse pointless (and possibly a fire hazard since the battery packs can draw 7 amps (there's a setting to do only 5, but 7 charges a lot faster). In my Ranger I'm using fuse #36, which according to the manual is designated to the auto-dimming interior mirror and Mirror adjustment control. I figured if something goes wrong, that's one of the things I'd worry least about if it no longer works lol.
From this tap, I ran the power cable down behind the panel, then along the doorsill, around the B pillar, and under the carpet through a hole under the rear seat where the battery pack sits. I used some Velcro tape to make sure the battery pack doesn't move around when going through corners and whatnot.
From there, another power cable goes back the same route, but instead of going to the fuse box it goes along the A pillar up to the ceiling. It's extremely easy to do this, you can just push it underneath the panels, but be careful when running this cable as there are little explosives for the airbag curtains all around the A pillars and ceiling panel. Also make sure to do it in such a way that you're not blocking any of the airbags. Usually the cables that come with these dashcams are long enough (mine are, I think, 10 feet, so I had plenty left over). Since the airbag explosives are attached to the A pillar panel (it was in my Ranger, but it wasn't the case in my previous car, a '16 Explorer, where I did a similar install) so it's best to not remove that panel if you're not certain of what you're doing (there's no need really, like said, you can push it underneath along the edge).
You then come at the front dash cam like in the following picture:
I used a few sticky cable whatchamacallits to keep the cables aligned next to the Lariat's camera housing (I was unable to get the cable underneath to make a nice look but this works and is barely noticeable when inside or outside the car). If you have a model without those camera's, I think you can fit the dashcam a bit higher, probably behind the mirror, giving it a cleaner look.
And from the dashcam I ran a video cable for the rear camera to the rear of the vehicle. I did this on the passenger side along the roof panels. The reason I went along the other side of the car is because there's a chance that if you run the power and video cable along the same side, that the recorded video may get some static interference. The excess cable (and there was plenty of it) I simply rolled up together and hid it behind the rear seats using a cable tie.
I placed the camera opposite from to where the rear window opens, on the window on the driver's side. This way the rear window can be opened and closed without interfering with the camera. I have had passengers in my rear seat several times, both kids and adults, and the camera seems back far enough for them not to hit it while in the rear seat. (btw, I'm amazed about how clear the view in the photos is to the back, considering I have very dark tint in the back lol)
Here's another photo of the front view, and as you can see, the camera is visible but barely noticeable. Especially not if you're just passing by the car. I turned off all LED lights (you can either turn them on or off, or have it blink or something) so it doesn't attract extra attention.
Finally a few pictures (I'll leave the comments) of the install in my other car. The battery pack with this car was placed in the truck (more space) the install itself was pretty much the same, the fuse box was located in the trunk as well, in the area most cars have their spare tire.
Edit: Please note, some cameras like the Thinkware require a special cable for use with the battery packs, like these ones: https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/battery-packs/products/hardwire-splicing
I've seen dashcams come up a few times in discussions, especially those where there was damage to a truck either through vandalism, theft, or accidents. I mentioned in one of those I'd upload some photos of my install, but I figured I'd give it its own thread instead.
In my Ranger I have a Thinkware F770 dual cam, in my other car I have a Blackvue 750s dual. They're both in the same price range. They are both in the upper price class, but I think it's recommended to do this due to the higher video quality at both bright and dark settings, and also to be able to see details like car registration plates. They have similar specs but there's certain aspects I like better in the Thinkware. For example, I live in Hawaii and both cars are usually always out in the sun, heat can be an issue with cameras and since they both record when parked (I have set them to record motion), it is essential they both continue to record. The Thinkware has done this without any problem at all, the Blackvue has stopped recording two or three times in the few years that I owned both of them due to heat, but did always start recording after the temperature in the car was brought down by a few degrees. Anyways, if you're in a hot area with lots of sun, it's definitely key to keep in mind that there are a lot of cameras out there, but plenty will stop recording when it gets too hot. Another thing I don't like about the Blackvue, although it's minor, is that the volume of the camera is a lot more quiet (and more robotic) than the Thinkware. I dislike this for the simple fact that when the camera turns to driving mode from parking mode, it tells you if there was any impact, motion etc. It's good to know what has happened around the car when I was away. Another minor annoyance with the Blackvue is that it switches to driving mode from parking when it detects the vehicle to be in motion, whereas the Thinkware simply switches between the two settings based on whether the ignition is on (that is, if you picked the right fuse to tap).
Both my camera systems getting their power from an external battery pack. They last for about 24-48 hours, depending on the settings and whether you have one or two cameras. I have set both my cars to motion, so they don't record the entire time, with cameras back and front this makes my batteries last for a little more than a day (also depending on the amount of motion, of course). The battery I'm using with the Thinkware in the Ranger is an older Cellink battery, the one I'm using in my other car is a Cellink Neo, which is a newer battery pack with better specs. What I especially like about the latter is that you can connect to it with your phone through bluetooth and see how much juice it has left, if it is charging or discharging, how long charging takes etc. Charging with both of them only takes a few hours of having the ignition/engine on, if you drive on and off throughout the day, you'd easily reach that.
Both my systems were purchased through Blackboxmycar.com. Although I highly recommend them based on past experiences, there's plenty more spaces where you can purchase dash cams of course
The way I have them installed, in both cars, is as follows:
I use a fuse tap (I use this one in both my cars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) on a fuse that is only on when the ignition is turned on. You can test this by using a volt meter. Also make sure the positive and negative are correctly wired or you'd bypass the tap (you'd draw power without going through the fuse), making the fuse pointless (and possibly a fire hazard since the battery packs can draw 7 amps (there's a setting to do only 5, but 7 charges a lot faster). In my Ranger I'm using fuse #36, which according to the manual is designated to the auto-dimming interior mirror and Mirror adjustment control. I figured if something goes wrong, that's one of the things I'd worry least about if it no longer works lol.
From this tap, I ran the power cable down behind the panel, then along the doorsill, around the B pillar, and under the carpet through a hole under the rear seat where the battery pack sits. I used some Velcro tape to make sure the battery pack doesn't move around when going through corners and whatnot.
From there, another power cable goes back the same route, but instead of going to the fuse box it goes along the A pillar up to the ceiling. It's extremely easy to do this, you can just push it underneath the panels, but be careful when running this cable as there are little explosives for the airbag curtains all around the A pillars and ceiling panel. Also make sure to do it in such a way that you're not blocking any of the airbags. Usually the cables that come with these dashcams are long enough (mine are, I think, 10 feet, so I had plenty left over). Since the airbag explosives are attached to the A pillar panel (it was in my Ranger, but it wasn't the case in my previous car, a '16 Explorer, where I did a similar install) so it's best to not remove that panel if you're not certain of what you're doing (there's no need really, like said, you can push it underneath along the edge).
You then come at the front dash cam like in the following picture:
I used a few sticky cable whatchamacallits to keep the cables aligned next to the Lariat's camera housing (I was unable to get the cable underneath to make a nice look but this works and is barely noticeable when inside or outside the car). If you have a model without those camera's, I think you can fit the dashcam a bit higher, probably behind the mirror, giving it a cleaner look.
And from the dashcam I ran a video cable for the rear camera to the rear of the vehicle. I did this on the passenger side along the roof panels. The reason I went along the other side of the car is because there's a chance that if you run the power and video cable along the same side, that the recorded video may get some static interference. The excess cable (and there was plenty of it) I simply rolled up together and hid it behind the rear seats using a cable tie.
I placed the camera opposite from to where the rear window opens, on the window on the driver's side. This way the rear window can be opened and closed without interfering with the camera. I have had passengers in my rear seat several times, both kids and adults, and the camera seems back far enough for them not to hit it while in the rear seat. (btw, I'm amazed about how clear the view in the photos is to the back, considering I have very dark tint in the back lol)
Here's another photo of the front view, and as you can see, the camera is visible but barely noticeable. Especially not if you're just passing by the car. I turned off all LED lights (you can either turn them on or off, or have it blink or something) so it doesn't attract extra attention.
Finally a few pictures (I'll leave the comments) of the install in my other car. The battery pack with this car was placed in the truck (more space) the install itself was pretty much the same, the fuse box was located in the trunk as well, in the area most cars have their spare tire.
Edit: Please note, some cameras like the Thinkware require a special cable for use with the battery packs, like these ones: https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/battery-packs/products/hardwire-splicing
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