Charging lithium-ion trailer batteries while towing

JonB

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I tow a travel trailer that has two conventional automotive type batteries. I am changing them to lithium ion phosphate batteries. These batteries require a higher voltage (14.4 v) to fully charge as compared to conventional (lead acid) batteries. I'm trying to determine if the stock charging system on my 2019 Ranger will handle this or if I need to install a DC to DC converter and, if so, which converter would you recommend?

Responses from anyone with knowledge / experience in this area would be greatly appreciated.
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myothercarizahearse

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A little off topic but ... if you do install the lithum bartterys don't you need a on board converter to keep the battery's charged while pluged in to 110v at camp site ? been out of the camping trailer scene for a long time but always had a 110 converter to 12 v on board .
 

RAYJAY

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The charge wire from the truck to the trailer goes thru the converter which supplies 12 volts to the 12 votl needs of the rv. The converter will only trickle charge the batteries, no matter what type they are. It's set up to supply a low charge over a long period of time so as to not over charge. Once charged the converter will stop charging...it basically acts like a Battery Tender.
Thats why. basically, you can leave your rv plugged into a power source, either on the road or at home, without overcharging the batteries.
Our trailer stays plugged into a dedicated 30 amp power source at home permenantly when not on the road.

thats what i was thinking . so why does the op, have to go to a 14+ volt charge ??
 

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The factory charging system on yhe Ranger will support it in a way. The main thing you MUST do it get a DC Charger from a place like RedArc. Why you ask? For starters the the charger will ensure a correct sharge on the battery. Second with vehicles like the Ranger that have Variable Voltage systems you need a Charger that will take a consistent amount of amps that will charge any Auxiliary Battery.

Here is a link to some of the chargers to consider.
https://redarcelectronics.com/collections/in-vehicle-dual-battery-chargers
 


mtbikernate

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you could also just run enough rooftop solar to take care of your on-the-road power needs.

has the benefit of being functional when you're camping, too.
 

Frenchy

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you could also just run enough rooftop solar to take care of your on-the-road power needs.

has the benefit of being functional when you're camping, too.
Some of the chargers from RedArc will allow the batteries to be charged with solar and by vehicle
 

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I attempted to charge my boat battery while driving down the road. The trailer + connection doesnt show any voltage running. I have heard that Ford has configured the tow connection to only supply juice when it senses a load. ???
 

mtbikernate

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Some of the chargers from RedArc will allow the batteries to be charged with solar and by vehicle
I've looked at some of these, and the way I was reading it, said devices are meant more for vans and rvs where all that equipment is on the vehicle in question and you're more likely to be using that electrical system while driving (or, at least your passengers might be).

On a trailer, though? it's belt-and-suspenders stuff. and also from what I've understood, if you want the best possible dc-dc charging scenario, you'll run heavier gauge wiring straight back from the TV battery and probably run a separate connector to the dc-dc charger so you can support higher current than the trailer wiring can handle.

if you're going to be installing solar (at this point, I consider it to be more or less standard equipment for any camper I would want to use), anyway, I don't much see the point of adding a dc-dc charger on top of it.
 

Frenchy

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I've looked at some of these, and the way I was reading it, said devices are meant more for vans and rvs where all that equipment is on the vehicle in question and you're more likely to be using that electrical system while driving (or, at least your passengers might be).

On a trailer, though? it's belt-and-suspenders stuff. and also from what I've understood, if you want the best possible dc-dc charging scenario, you'll run heavier gauge wiring straight back from the TV battery and probably run a separate connector to the dc-dc charger so you can support higher current than the trailer wiring can handle.

if you're going to be installing solar (at this point, I consider it to be more or less standard equipment for any camper I would want to use), anyway, I don't much see the point of adding a dc-dc charger on top of it.
Even though it says to use it on a vehicle(truck, van or suv) you can mount it in the trailer just fine and it will work. There are some Australian camper companies that use this and it works well. The only thing you have to do to your main vehicle is add in the power and ground wires strait from the battery to the rear of the vehicle for trailer plug in. The 7 pin trailer wires won't do you any good for charging
 

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The charge wire from the truck to the trailer goes thru the converter which supplies 12 volts to the 12 votl needs of the rv. The converter will only trickle charge the batteries, no matter what type they are. It's set up to supply a low charge over a long period of time so as to not over charge. Once charged the converter will stop charging...it basically acts like a Battery Tender.
Thats why. basically, you can leave your rv plugged into a power source, either on the road or at home, without overcharging the batteries.
Our trailer stays plugged into a dedicated 30 amp power source at home permenantly when not on the road.
LiFEPO4 batteries do not charge this way, they have a BMS inside the battery that regulates the cell charge and balancing, and require CV/CC (constant voltage/constant current) A lifepo4 battery can charge at the rated amperage of the battery, and control the charge and shut off when the DOC reaches 100%. If he is putting those in his trailer then he needs to change the converter to a 14.4v lithium one. I had to do this in my RV as a LA converter will only charge lithium to about 85% DOC due to amperage drop off as the DOC goes up. If he only wants to charge them while driving then a DC>DC (12v to 14.4v @ 10/20 amps) charger will work, but will be slow. As a side, most RV converters supply much more than a 'trickle' charge, mine is a 60 amp converter and will charge my batteries at between 30-45 amps depending on the DOC, the charging profile of some converters can be changed to charge LA/sealed/AGM/lithium batteries. Progressive makes some very good ones. I have designed and installed several solar/Lithium RV charging systems.
 

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thats what i was thinking . so why does the op, have to go to a 14+ volt charge ??
It’s the cell voltage total when paired up. So 4 cells 4S = 14.8V

For efficient charging these batteries need each cell charged individually to keep them balanced.

The biggest benefit of these cells is the amount of current they can deliver for size.
 
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A little off topic but ... if you do install the lithum bartterys don't you need a on board converter to keep the battery's charged while pluged in to 110v at camp site ? been out of the camping trailer scene for a long time but always had a 110 converter to 12 v on board .
Yes, and my trailer comes stock with an onboard charger that keeps the 12 volt batteries charged. The trouble is that the charger is set to charge lead-acid (flooded) batteries and not Li-On batteries which require a higher voltage to fully charge.
 

Frenchy

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Depending on the onboard charger you might beable to change the setting for the type of battery. I recommend looking into it
 
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JonB

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you could also just run enough rooftop solar to take care of your on-the-road power needs.

has the benefit of being functional when you're camping, too.
I camp in the woods and like to keep the trailer shaded under the trees. So I have my panels on portable mounts that I can move around the campsite to catch the sun wherever it strikes the ground.
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