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coyote5.0man

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I apologize if these issues are answered in another post.

I have 1,034 miles on my brand new 2022 Ranger Lariat with the 501A Package, FX4 package, Trailer tow, and the black out appearance package.

First issue:

Sometimes right after you first start the truck "dose not matter If it is 40 outside or 90" after the choke kicks off and you place the truck into derive it feels as tho it misses "sometimes". Once the engine is completely up to temp it is fine. Is this normal? As long as I know the trans is not slipping and the engine is not missing I would be ok with it. I do not run the RPMs over 2500 when cold. And even when it is warm I don't go over 3000 RPMs as there is not really need to.

Second issue:

For users that have the Fx4 package and the dual displays "one left and right" and have the digital tachometer on as their left gauge does it not act like a full sweep gauge? Meaning it is not smooth when the trans Automatically changes gears. Is this normal? I am use to full sweep gauges that are not digital.

Thank you everyone for your time. If I posted this in the wrong spot please let me know and I will adjust accordingly. Thanks again

Trent Wentworth
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Eoj

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Welcome to the ranger. No need to stare at the tach. Mine at 4000 miles in 13 months Nathan still has that little stutter but I barely notice at it’s worst
 

deleriumtremor

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I apologize if these issues are answered in another post.

I have 1,034 miles on my brand new 2022 Ranger Lariat with the 501A Package, FX4 package, Trailer tow, and the black out appearance package.

First issue:

Sometimes right after you first start the truck "dose not matter If it is 40 outside or 90" after the choke kicks off and you place the truck into derive it feels as tho it misses "sometimes". Once the engine is completely up to temp it is fine. Is this normal? As long as I know the trans is not slipping and the engine is not missing I would be ok with it. I do not run the RPMs over 2500 when cold. And even when it is warm I don't go over 3000 RPMs as there is not really need to.

Second issue:

For users that have the Fx4 package and the dual displays "one left and right" and have the digital tachometer on as their left gauge does it not act like a full sweep gauge? Meaning it is not smooth when the trans Automatically changes gears. Is this normal? I am use to full sweep gauges that are not digital.

Thank you everyone for your time. If I posted this in the wrong spot please let me know and I will adjust accordingly. Thanks again

Trent Wentworth
Hey Trent,

I have a new 2022 XLT FX4 (same powertrain) with about 600 miles on it. I don't feel any miss or stutter when the engine is cold. I would take it in so the service guys can drive it cold in the morning.

I have the traditional XLT dash so can't help with the other issues.
 

RedlandRanger

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I apologize if these issues are answered in another post.

I have 1,034 miles on my brand new 2022 Ranger Lariat with the 501A Package, FX4 package, Trailer tow, and the black out appearance package.

First issue:

Sometimes right after you first start the truck "dose not matter If it is 40 outside or 90" after the choke kicks off and you place the truck into derive it feels as tho it misses "sometimes". Once the engine is completely up to temp it is fine. Is this normal? As long as I know the trans is not slipping and the engine is not missing I would be ok with it. I do not run the RPMs over 2500 when cold. And even when it is warm I don't go over 3000 RPMs as there is not really need to.

Second issue:

For users that have the Fx4 package and the dual displays "one left and right" and have the digital tachometer on as their left gauge does it not act like a full sweep gauge? Meaning it is not smooth when the trans Automatically changes gears. Is this normal? I am use to full sweep gauges that are not digital.

Thank you everyone for your time. If I posted this in the wrong spot please let me know and I will adjust accordingly. Thanks again

Trent Wentworth
Issue 1 - This sounds like the "cold transmission" issue - the first shifts when cold can be abrupt and hard - once it warms up that goes away. I typically get 1 hard shift (either 1-2 or 1-3 depending on what it wants to to) but then the rest of the shifts are smooth.

Issue 2 - IMO, the tach isn't like a "real" tach, so it can be slow to reflect what is really happening.

I've had my Ranger for over 3 years now and I've definitely learned to live with both of these things. The only REAL issue for me is that cold shift - but if you warm it up or take it easy until it warms up its all good. Other than that, I LOVE this truck - it has been a VERY comfortable, VERY reliable, VERY capable truck for me.
 


Sib6019

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2021 Lariat FX4 51,000 on it runs good. Need to let run for a little bit while cold if not there is some hard shifts. Had a few stumbles during the first 20k, after that no issues. Just the computer learn how you drive.
 
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coyote5.0man

coyote5.0man

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Lost me at Choke???
Hi idle. When you start any EFI vehicle it will high idle for a few minutes before idling down to around 650 to 750 RPM. I am from the old days and call that a choke as I use to have to pull a lever called "choke."
 
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coyote5.0man

coyote5.0man

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Issue 1 - This sounds like the "cold transmission" issue - the first shifts when cold can be abrupt and hard - once it warms up that goes away. I typically get 1 hard shift (either 1-2 or 1-3 depending on what it wants to to) but then the rest of the shifts are smooth.

Issue 2 - IMO, the tach isn't like a "real" tach, so it can be slow to reflect what is really happening.

I've had my Ranger for over 3 years now and I've definitely learned to live with both of these things. The only REAL issue for me is that cold shift - but if you warm it up or take it easy until it warms up its all good. Other than that, I LOVE this truck - it has been a VERY comfortable, VERY reliable, VERY capable truck for me.
Thank you very much for your reply. I am glad I am not the only one having this odd set of symptoms. Yeah I for sure try to stay under 2500 RPMs MAX until the engine warms up. That is really hard on the engine to run it higher RPMs when it is cold.
 

P. A. Schilke

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Thank you very much for your reply. I am glad I am not the only one having this odd set of symptoms. Yeah I for sure try to stay under 2500 RPMs MAX until the engine warms up. That is really hard on the engine to run it higher RPMs when it is cold.
Hi Trent,

You will find that Cold Start on the emission test cycle when the Feds okay calibration for emissions is the worst part of the Federal Test Program. AKA first "Bag" which is where the tailpipe emissions goes, and a First Bag failure flunks the whole calibration effort, so it is key to get good first Bag numbers out of the three Bags of the FTP. This can lead to somewhat "clunky" performance for the first few minutes. Feds look at results of the test and do not care one bit if driveability is degraded... Vehicle had to pass the "test". Normally the cold start needs a lean mixture and can result in what you feel. Thus the "warm up" comments, but Ford says, start it and go. This is what I do. Fire it up and back out of the drive and down the street...

I think your vehicle is operating normally, but take it to the dealer to ensure there are no error coded, however lack of a CEL is an indicator of normal operation.

Side Bar,

Today's vehicle in Los Angles inhale the air and emit cleaner air than they intake... In other words, today's vehicles clean LA air...

Sorry to ramble on here...

Best,
Phil
 

Dereku

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Hi Trent,

You will find that Cold Start on the emission test cycle when the Feds okay calibration for emissions is the worst part of the Federal Test Program. AKA first "Bag" which is where the tailpipe emissions goes, and a First Bag failure flunks the whole calibration effort, so it is key to get good first Bag numbers out of the three Bags of the FTP. This can lead to somewhat "clunky" performance for the first few minutes. Feds look at results of the test and do not care one bit if driveability is degraded... Vehicle had to pass the "test". Normally the cold start needs a lean mixture and can result in what you feel. Thus the "warm up" comments, but Ford says, start it and go. This is what I do. Fire it up and back out of the drive and down the street...

I think your vehicle is operating normally, but take it to the dealer to ensure there are no error coded, however lack of a CEL is an indicator of normal operation.

Side Bar,

Today's vehicle in Los Angles inhale the air and emit cleaner air than they intake... In other words, today's vehicles clean LA air...

Sorry to ramble on here...

Best,
Phil
So your telling me my truck is better than an EV? It cleans as it goes and no mining needed. Sweet.
 

Apples

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It only does this when in closed loop. Once it warms up a bit and goes into open loop, no more hesitations.

On Phils comments: Actually, the air doesn't "get cleaner" with respect to harmful emissions. But is could, if we did what Volvo once did. They had an option to buy a radiator with a coating similar to what is used in the CAT. For those who opted for the option, in deed were cleaning the atmosphere. Problem is, it is expensive to do, expensive to recycle, and the cost of the option too expensive. Had they done this as OEM, we'd all be breathing easier.
 
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FunInTheSun

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It only does this when in closed loop. Once it warms up a bit and goes into open loop, no more hesitations.
<snip>
Just a minor quibble here. I think you have "Open Loop" and "Closed Loop" terms reversed. The "Loop" is an engineering way to refer to a "Feedback Loop". This is from systems theory and treats the "system" with a sensor (AFE sensor) and an actuator (engine) as operating in a loop with a controller (ECU) that adjusts the output of the actuator with reference to a desired output from the sensor. There are a BUNCH of these systems in any vehicle, but in this case, the term comes from the EPA's description of the Emissions Control Systems. "Closed Loop" is where the ECU adjusts the fuel delivery (injector pulse width) to achieve a certain air fuel ratio (14.7:1 for gasoline/air). Open Loop is when "Loop" is broken, and the engine is running off a (pre-calculated and stored) map of fuel delivery, and ignores the sensor such as cold start or WOT. These loop settings alter fuel delivery to allow the system to deviate from 14.7:1 for operational reasons. But your idea is correct.
Sorry for the interruption. You may continue... :)
 

lawrench

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Hi Trent,

You will find that Cold Start on the emission test cycle when the Feds okay calibration for emissions is the worst part of the Federal Test Program. AKA first "Bag" which is where the tailpipe emissions goes, and a First Bag failure flunks the whole calibration effort, so it is key to get good first Bag numbers out of the three Bags of the FTP. This can lead to somewhat "clunky" performance for the first few minutes. Feds look at results of the test and do not care one bit if driveability is degraded... Vehicle had to pass the "test". Normally the cold start needs a lean mixture and can result in what you feel. Thus the "warm up" comments, but Ford says, start it and go. This is what I do. Fire it up and back out of the drive and down the street...

I think your vehicle is operating normally, but take it to the dealer to ensure there are no error coded, however lack of a CEL is an indicator of normal operation.

Side Bar,

Today's vehicle in Los Angles inhale the air and emit cleaner air than they intake... In other words, today's vehicles clean LA air...

Sorry to ramble on here...

Best,
Phil
Isn't it always the case? Big Brother only wants to help and ends up making things worse.

Like Ronald Reagan once said, the most feared words in the world are " I am from the government and I am here to help".
 

NTXTremor

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Hi Trent,

You will find that Cold Start on the emission test cycle when the Feds okay calibration for emissions is the worst part of the Federal Test Program. AKA first "Bag" which is where the tailpipe emissions goes, and a First Bag failure flunks the whole calibration effort, so it is key to get good first Bag numbers out of the three Bags of the FTP. This can lead to somewhat "clunky" performance for the first few minutes. Feds look at results of the test and do not care one bit if driveability is degraded... Vehicle had to pass the "test". Normally the cold start needs a lean mixture and can result in what you feel. Thus the "warm up" comments, but Ford says, start it and go. This is what I do. Fire it up and back out of the drive and down the street...

I think your vehicle is operating normally, but take it to the dealer to ensure there are no error coded, however lack of a CEL is an indicator of normal operation.

Side Bar,

Today's vehicle in Los Angles inhale the air and emit cleaner air than they intake... In other words, today's vehicles clean LA air...

Sorry to ramble on here...

Best,
Phil
^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^

Perhaps it goes without saying, but as someone who performed hundreds of emissions tests back in the day for oil companies testing their fuels and as someone who built a smog chamber for the research institute to test how these fuels impacted smog, I think it is important to highlight the "why" of the EPA testing.

The "Cold Start" portion of the emissions test is important because the first 60 seconds or so is when modern ICEs produce the most harmful emissions. As you can imagine, the engine is not operating as efficiently until it warms up, and more importantly, the catalytic converters require heat to perform their function. Once warm, you would be shocked at how clean the emissions are from modern cars. Gasoline lawn mowers produce way more emissions than a car in the same amount of time.

I also notice that my Ranger is sluggish for the first minute or so. Do I sit and let it warm up before driving? No, not more than maybe 15 seconds. Am I worried about it? Also no.
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