Bed Racks and Ford's partnership with Yakima

Discussion in 'General Ford Ranger Discussions' started by khyros, Dec 7, 2018.

  1. khyros

    khyros Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, so I'm super excited for the new Ranger and can't wait to finally get my hands on one to confirm that it'll fit in the garage. In the meantime, I've already started to take a look at all sorts of accessories and aftermarket stuff that I'll obviously NEED. But one thing that is bugging me is a bed rack. I have 12' kayaks, so I'll need something to go up and over the cab - seems like it should be easy, right?

    Wrong. So Ford is apparently partnering with Yakima, and I really like the concept of Yakima's new HD truck series (Overhaul and Outpost), but I'm really confused by the choice of the two heights. So from the bed rail height thread here, I saw that the height from the bed rail to the roof should be 19'' or so. This means that the Outpost, at 13'' is going to be sitting 6'' below the top of the cab. And while there will be a bit of height added on from the kayak racks and the natural curvature of the kayaks themselves, I don't think I can make up a 6'' difference in height for the kayaks to clear the cab.

    Which then means that I'd have to step up to the Overhaul, which is adjustable from 19'' to 30'', and states something about being able to drop it to bring it out of the wind, or raise it up high to go over the cab. But who the heck would ever want to put it up a foot over the top of the cab? Now I get that this will be made for the F-150 and competitors as well, where the height from the bed rail to the cab may be 21'' or so, but it still seems excessive. It seems that the Ranger, which is kicking off the partnership with Yakima, would like a rack that was adjustable from 13'' to 26'' or so - such that you could drop it down low to get it out of the wind (which would be great for a ski rack), or up high to go over the cab (for a kayak rack).

    I can't be the only one in this situation though - so I figured I'd come here and ask what everyone else is planning on doing. The requirements I have is that I need a tonneau cover, I need to mount the kayaks, and I'm using the trailer hitch for a bike rack. I would prefer a lower rack at like 16'' in all honesty just for ease of loading, so I'm wondering if there would either be another solution out there that I'm overlooking, or perhaps a way to easily raise the bar a couple of inches without sacrificing function.

    And to round the topic out and bring it back specifically to the Ranger - what all are ya'll planning on doing to your Ranger upon delivery?
     
  2. rangerdanger

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  3. rangerdanger

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  4. Rinn69

    Rinn69 Well-Known Member

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    I'm making my own since there aren't many to choose from and the price :crying: they want is crazy !!! I am waiting for my Pelican 130 HD (12 footer) to be delivered in mid February. I'm going to make a removable headache rack that sits just above the roof line and a rear rack that slips into the hitch receiver that will still allow the tailgate to be used. The mounts for the headache rack will be bolted into the bed stake pocket, with the rack portion being removable by taking out a couple bolts on each side. The cost of just a simple roof rack is crazy-- a single from Yakima would be about $130. I can buy everything I need for about $50-75, plus it's always fun to fire up the welder and make stuff....welding used to be a job, but now it's a hobby. Here's my rough plans. You could add a section at the end to accommodate your bike rack too, just make sure to use strong enough 2" sq tubing.

    hitch rack.jpg

    rack mount.jpg
     
  5. Rinn69

    Rinn69 Well-Known Member

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    As far as making it adjustable, use 1" sq tube for the lower portion, use 3/4" for the inner (sliding/adjustable) part. The wall thickness of the 1" will determine how tight or loose it fits. Clamp the 1" pcs together (so they are both the same and level with each other) and drill one hole through them. Take one of the 3/4" pcs, slide it into the 1" pc and use the hole to mark where to drill the holes at the different heights. Then clamp the 3/4" together, drill holes where you marked them and use keeper pins to hold it in place. Soooo much easier to do than explain.
     
  6. Rinn69

    Rinn69 Well-Known Member

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    Here's a better idea of the headache rack mount / base that gets bolted to the bed rail. It also keeps everything above a tonneau cover, depending how high it's made.

    oblique rack mount.jpg
     
  7. khyros

    khyros Well-Known Member

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    @Rinn69 Your idea seems very similar to my original concept I had a couple of years ago when I was looking at F-150s. I was thinking about starting with a 2' hitch extension and welding a vertical bar onto it. Then welding (or perhaps just bolting) a crossbar across the top. The concept included probably about 6'' of adjustment / way to dissemble at the bottom, where the vertical bar would be bolted into the base extension - and with holes drilled every 2'' or so I could have a bit of adjustment (so it could work with an F-150 or Ranger).

    From there though I was thinking about putting the second bar on the roof - probably with the door jam attachments from yakima/thule, but I could also be convinced to install a t-bar track onto the roof itself. I might have to reconsider that. While I don't weld myself, I can make up actual engineering drawings, and my cousin is a welder by trade who'll make it for me.

    Pros for homemade version
    Cost - I can get just a regular tonneau cover instead of the retractable one ($500), <$100 in mats/prefab parts, and probably $150 for the door jam bits. Plus a case of beer. Total cost estimate = $800. Compared to $1500 for tonneau, $700 for overhaul HD, $110 for tonneau kit adapter, $250 for HD bar (x2? Or do they come as a pair at that price?) = $2560. Savings of $1750.

    Pros for Yakima HD version
    Ease of Use - I have about of foot of clearance in my garage right now, so I won't be able to keep anything on the trailer hitch while I'm parked. However, the 25# bike rack is a lot easier to remove / install than a 35# steel crossbar with really awkward dimensions, and then install the 25# bike rack onto it. I'm assuming the two step install will be easier than a single 60# install. In either case, having the rack on the tonneau cover means that it can stay there at all times.

    Peace of Mind - Not going to lie, one of my major concerns with a home made rack is that if something breaks, I'm looking at potentially killing someone. Having a production rack supporting our two 80# kayaks over a custom designed and cousin welded rack provides peace of mind.

    Appearance - Unless I start powder coating it and painting it, the home made rack will never look as pretty.

    Further Expansion - You can put almost everything onto their T-slot bars. I hadn't even give that much thought as to what I'd do with additional rack space, but the first thing that comes to mind is a paddle holder. I suppose I could do that to the homemade solution as well, but it's more difficult.

    Benefit of retractable tonneau - Not entirely sure how much better this is in reality, but it sounds really nice. One of the main things I'm thinking would be great is that we typically buy wood close to the final campsite. And the ability to just use a cargo net and tie it down on top of the bed for the last 5 miles keeps the rest of the gear from getting dirty.

    Potential resale value / longevity? - I don't know what my next vehicle is going to be, but a home made solution isn't likely to have any resale, but the Yakima version might be able to get 30-50% return if I have to sell it. So that would take the cost from 2560 down to 1280, less 550 (figure 50% return on regular tonneau as well) = $730 actual increased cost for Yakima over Homemade



    Obviously some of these are bigger deals than others. I think it really comes down to is $1,000 (or $730, or $1750 depending on your point of view) increase in cost worth it? I'm really hung up on that peace of mind thing. I've seen (photos, not in real life) issues where kayaks and/or kayak racks have flown off of vehicles due to improper securing (note since you seem to be getting your first kayak - ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS tie it down with bow/stern strings as well as your standard straps, even if you're only going 5 miles down the road. Also, on long trips, after about 50 miles or so, get out and tighten everything down again), and at highway speeds, that's a big deal.

    20190118_104129.jpg
     
  8. RJohans

    RJohans Active Member

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    I understand that Thule will also have a line compatible with our new Rangers.
     
  9. Jason L

    Jason L Active Member

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    Yup, I'm in the same search as I have 14' race SUPs.

    I want a cool looking rack that looks more offroad rollbar than work truck ladder rack. I don't want an expensive cover that takes up room in the 5' bed. No options that have the look, cost and features I can find.

    I am currently thinking truxedo sentry ct to give me cool looking, east roll, hard locking cover that doesnt eat bed space. Pair of Thule roof mount cross bars over the cab. I think the roof bars will look better than the full rack and are plenty capable.
     
  10. toddiscdn

    toddiscdn Well-Known Member

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    Thule, has a "fit kit" listed for the ranger now for roof racks and crossbars, going to look into it soon as I have all the other bits, just need the door specific pices for my canoe rack.
     
  11. Jason L

    Jason L Active Member

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    If you haven't worked with Thule before, they are one of the few great companies left. I've tons of racks, kayak mounts, sup lockable mounts, bike racks etc. and all held up well.

    Ordered a soft luggage carrier, and on the first trip the zipper ripped a few inches, had to duct tape it on ride home. Called Thule expecting a hastle to exchange or repair. Rep said "toss it in the trash when you get home, a new one will be waiting for you". It was, and I recommend them every chance I get.
     
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  12. HoosierT

    HoosierT Active Member

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    7731BDFA-E2B9-45E4-BBEB-1D00099EDAEF.jpeg What about just using a hitch extender? I just grabbed one from harbor freight for $60. I plan to back up to a tree while camping and hanging my hammock between the tree and the bed extender. Should work well for kayaks too, albeit they’ll be at a slight slant coming off your headache rack but not too bad.
     
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