Bed Lights

JimH

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This was the solution I used : https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-TR-08-Pickup-Lighting-Warranty/dp/B07YZFN925/

Each light is separate - I only needed 3 on each side, so I disconnected the 4th one. Each light comes with double-sided tape, and also a hole if you want to use a screw (also in the package). If the tape doesn't like my Linex bedliner, I'll use screws. I'll mount a switch on the left side and pick up power from the 12v plug under the fender. The kit comes with 2 switches, but I might find one that turns them on when the tailgate is lowered.

 
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David1

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Here it’s a set up with an led strip everything cost me 35 bucks and follow a lot of the steps from crisfix.. it’s. A lot cheaper than 250 for the ford harness.. it was on a ford ranger 2019
Ive seen another post where someone bought an elaborate bed light system. Has anyone seen the LED light strips offered by Access? It’s inexpensive and provides enough light, IMHO, for my 5’ bed. They have another one that has a motion sensor that would be cool with a bed cover.

https://shop.agricover.com/product/...57.2102108220.1552614283-476519059.1549776724
..

9A13D1AE-32CF-457F-A433-F29843099888.jpeg
 

mURmECH

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What’s the easiest way to route to courtesy lights?
 

Aliby

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Almost done with my bed light install. I tapped into the cargo light wire much like @treimche did (thanks for the advice!).

I made a simple 4-wire harness (2 wires set aside for future wiring) and ran it through the smaller grommet on the driver’s side, rear passenger floor. I relocated the inline fuse that came on the kit and placed it right after the wire tap, but I left the switch in place
Hi @Grey Razor , these are great photos and very helpful.

  1. Did you use the switches in the end or just use the interior light switch for the cargo/ courtesy lights?
  2. How did you attach the LED strips in the bed? Did you just use the tape or also the straps ... not sure if I want to screw them into the side of the bed, but I doubt the tape alone will last long.
 
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Aliby

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Thanks to @Grey Razor and @treimche, eventually found some details scrolling through your builds:

For others here are some links:
For the wire tap into the cargo light

I couldn't find any pics from when I originally did the install, so I went back in and took a couple. The cargo light wire is white with a green stripe, in the wire harness under the rear driver's side door sill. You'll want to test the wire with a multi meter because there are other white/green wires in the same harness. It will test as +12v with the cargo light on, and 0v when its off.

In order to get the wires into the interior of the Ranger, I used a rubber grommet that is in the floor. There are quite a few, but I used one that is just in front of the driver's side rear seat (my Ranger is a super crew)

IMG_8448.jpeg


IMG_8449.jpeg
For the LED strip kit, here it is on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXR799K
 


Mark W

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If the tape doesn't work, try some magnets on the lights. They will then stick in the bed. I mounted a light this way and it works great and I can move it if I choose.
 

Aliby

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Almost done with my bed light install.
Hi @Grey Razor , any follow-up photos would be greatly appreciated.
  1. where do you route the wires going to the other side?
  2. how did you attach the lights? tape/adhesion promoter, clips, magnets, screws
  3. what gauge wire did you use?
 

JimH

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On mine, I took the wires from the right side through the round hole near the back (with a grommet), ran them under the truck (secured to existing wire bundle), and connected them to the light switch on the left side (along with the left side lights).. the left side light wires went through the existing hole (with a grommet, same as right side). I drilled a hole and mounted the switch on the left side and picked up power from my Wolf plug.
 

Mark W

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Depends what you want to put up with. I got 2 of these from Harbor Dreight when they were $1.99. Put a magnet on the back and can stick them wherever I need them in the bed. Two provides plenty of light. Went the whole winter and the light is still going strong with the original batteries and I used these light quite a bit when ice fishing.

https://www.harborfreight.com/200-Lumen-LED-Super-Bright-Flip-Light-63922.html
 

thewhiteranger

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Thanks!! Exactly what I was looking for!! The dummy end I can source to make the pigtail
thanks! so that plug is 12v power for bed outlet? I was wondering what that was for, I saw it while I was under the truck putting my hitch on last week. good to know!
 

micl9

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I went with Nilights off Amazon. Really nice but if I had thought about the length, I might have gone with something shorter. I still need to install my Undercover flex so just routed the excess straight down the bed wall.
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Didn't like the switch that came with them so went with a waterproof switch that could be installed thru the hole at the back of the bed. Kept all the wires out of the bed.
Routed the power thru a sheet metal opening. The connector just fit!
qYu8zvOjKQBiNpj-JRLTJFAii=w1251-h938-no?authuser=0.jpg

Tapped into the 12V 20Amp power sorce behing the driver rear wheel by making use of Wolf House's Aux power set up with an added splice to tap off power for the LEDs(thanks again Ethan!). Really happy with how it came out. I just wish they had power after a remote unlock rather than requiring the key in aux position. Posted over on the forscan thread, maybe someone can figure out how to change that!
n6wmbRFBy37-YL3dBzSD74Bpu=w1251-h938-no?authuser=0.jpg

Took pictures in the rain to prove its all waterproof! ?

Oh and how does it look at night!?
AWESOME
1604257344676.png
 

royalnewjersey

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Two hours is a long time, but to initiate that timer countdown doesn't the ignition need to be cycled to the on (or even engine run) positions for the timer to start counting down?
To me this would be an inconvenience if all I want to do is turn the bed lights on.
If I do install bed lights I'll look into wiring them with the existing cargo light circuit or to be hot at all times and rely on a separate switch to activate them.
Sorry to revive a month old thread. But I did some testing and wanted to share. I checked out the 12v bed plug mentioned by MT19RANGER. I was hoping that the plug would be active once you unlock the truck with the key fob, but no such luck. I wanted an easier wiring point than running a cable to the battery (or the 3rd brake / cargo light). I used a multimeter and got the following values:

Truck sitting overnight: 0.08v
Unlock truck with key fob: 0.08v
Turn on ignition, check while running: 14.XXv
Turn off ignition, check while off: 12.XXv

So it seems that this plug deactivates after the ~2hr automatic shutoff, and won't resume power until you turn the ignition again. Bummer as I was hoping that just unlocking with the key fob again would allow you to power the bed lights. Just a warning for anyone trying to go this route. I may end up getting the OEM kit and running the wire to the battery just so everything is 100% OEM. :crying:

EDIT: (only thing I forgot to check was testing with the key turned to "ACC", but not cycling the ignition. I'll go back out and test in a few hours. but i think the behavior will be the same).
 
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DanaBovender

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Sorry to revive a month old thread. But I did some testing and wanted to share. I checked out the 12v bed plug mentioned by MT19RANGER. I was hoping that the plug would be active once you unlock the truck with the key fob, but no such luck. I wanted an easier wiring point than running a cable to the battery (or the 3rd brake / cargo light). I used a multimeter and got the following values:

Truck sitting overnight: 0.08v
Unlock truck with key fob: 0.08v
Turn on ignition, check while running: 14.XXv
Turn off ignition, check while off: 12.XXv

So it seems that this plug deactivates after the ~2hr automatic shutoff, and won't resume power until you turn the ignition again. Bummer as I was hoping that just unlocking with the key fob again would allow you to power the bed lights. Just a warning for anyone trying to go this route. I may end up getting the OEM kit and running the wire to the battery just so everything is 100% OEM. :crying:

EDIT: (only thing I forgot to check was testing with the key turned to "ACC", but not cycling the ignition. I'll go back out and test in a few hours. but i think the behavior will be the same).
Yep, you just have to have it on accessory and it’s active.
I thought about re-wiring mine directly to a constant power source as well
 

royalnewjersey

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Yep, you just have to have it on accessory and it’s active.
I thought about re-wiring mine directly to a constant power source as well
What about after the 2-hour timer shutoff? Do you have to cycle the ignition again? Or can you just flip the key to accessory and it will work again? if so, that's not a huge deal to just stick the key in. But I don't want to have to start the engine again just for lighting...
 

royalnewjersey

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What about after the 2-hour timer shutoff? Do you have to cycle the ignition again? Or can you just flip the key to accessory and it will work again? if so, that's not a huge deal to just stick the key in. But I don't want to have to start the engine again just for lighting...
Just tested it myself. I can confirm that putting the key in the ignition, and turning it to Accessory, does re-activate the circuit without starting the engine. Even after taking the key out it stayed active (probably starting another 2 hour countdown).
 

 
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