anyone in here a ford tech? need help with troubleshooting asap

[theanswer3]

i was installing some lights and after hooking up power the wire, my truck will not start and i have messages on my dash saying a bunch of things have failed like collision camera, traction control, ect. I tested all fuses and relays in all 3 fuse boxes and they all say they are good. so not sure what else to test or what direction to look at. tested the battery and it is good and 100% charged. truck does not click in any way or even attempt to start.

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[NotBudule]

Did you disconnect battery and reset everything?

 

[theanswer3]

Yes i did that as well. it does everything like it would normally but then when turning the key no clicking or any noise and then a bunch of messages flash on the dash

 

[NotBudule]

Where did you hook the power wire ?

 

[theanswer3]

Where did you hook the power wire ?

To the bolt with the 225 fuse on the positive battery terminal.

 

[JasonTremor]

Picture of said connection?

 

[Apples]

Oops.

First rule: Never use existing wiring and/or fuse connections. In other words, separate wiring and fuses are always a necessity!

Second rule: Co-locate ground connections near, or at, the existing battery's chassis ground point. and...

Third rule: Always wire is such a manner that you DO NOT bypass the BMS detector. This is typically a Hall device, installed as part of the battery ground connection (most Ford products). Attaching to the battery side of this device (ratter than the ground side as in rule two), will light every dashboard warning light!!!!!!

If you don't understand... Ford publishes a guide for installation of after-market devices from lighting, sound systems, winches, etc. If you're attaching to ANYTHING made of aluminum, you'd best download Ford's aluminum-body wiring instructions.

And lastly, if you just don't know about these things, pay someone who knows!

I can offer a little help, if you go here: http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html However, understand, this is written about installing amateur radio gear, but the wiring scenarios are about this same for after-market devices.

 

[Toytec]

To the bolt with the 225 fuse on the positive battery terminal.

And you 100% confirmed there's continuity across said fuse?

 

[JaysOnTheEDGE]

Did you test the 225 Fuse you directly wired to? to make sure it is still okay

 

[theanswer3]

Yes i checked continuity as well as a meter to see 12 volts on both sides of the fuse and the other fuse next to it, which i think is 125amp. I also checked all other fuses and relays in all 3 fuse boxes to make sure nothing else was blown.

 

[theanswer3]

Picture of said connection?

 

[JaysOnTheEDGE]

How'd you check the battery? I've had multiple batteries die within 2-3 years down here in FL they always read 12V at rest but if you turned the Key on ON or crank putting a load on it, they would drop to 6-8 volts.

I also had an older ranger that worked perfectly fine drove it home 2 miles then I went to start it 5 minus later and did what yours is describing and it turned out the cable had some loose on the starter.

 

[JasonTremor]

Oh ok, my tremor has a 300 amp fuse there.

What did you use as a ground terminal for the accessory lights?

 

[Trigganometry]

Need some details. Was the battery disconnected when you made these additions/changes?

Do you have access to an OBD scanner so you can check for codes? Forscan would be better but anything right now is more than we know.

I would pull ground off battery, let it sit 15 minutes and then reconnect. Try again. No smoke to put back so good! ?

 

[JDowns]

I would think thats one of the exact spots you wouldn't want to make a connection. You are adding more current draw to a known circuit. You should be making a connection upstream of the fuse at the battery with its own fuse.

That fuse sure looks blown in the picture. You may have a sliver of connection giving continuity and 12VDC but not enough current for the systems it feeds to.

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