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Anybody using Rotella T6?

Wytchdctr

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Big Mobil 1 fan. Castrol Edge right behind that.

Ranger..... I'm sticking with factory oil and filter.

Why? Not 100% sure but I'm going with that until I see data that says I shouldn't. Changing it sooner because LMS and I'm an asshole but yeah... 5w30 Ford oil and filter at 5k until I trade or sell it.
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TJC

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I just looked at the Rotella T6 Full Synthetic page and read the reviews. People are using this oil in everything with an engine and swearing by it. 1990 Miata, Subaru STi, Jeep Cherokee, motorcycles of all brands, etc

For instance
Zero problems with this oil!
I've used the Rotella T6 5w-40 for years and years in motorcycles with wet clutches, trucks, and tractors and had no problems. Most notably I've used it in: 2004 Honda Shadow Sabre 1100 (wet clutch) and put 30k+ miles on it and I used it in my 2011 F-150 for it's entire life (bought new). The F-150 is impressive because it had the 3.5L Ecoboost, the first year of that engine, and I put over 218k miles on it with nothing done to the engine except oil changes and spark plug changes. I also use this in my tractors, I used it in my 2002 Dodge 2500 with the Cummins (bought new, sold at 168k miles), and other vehicles. I love this oil.​
Excellent Motor Oil for ALL My Vehicles
This is a truly excellent oil that has the ratings and approvals for all my vehicles, gasoline, diesel, air and liquid cooled.

Rotella T6 is the only oil I buy for my cars, trucks, tractors, ATV's, UTV's, ZTR's, gasoline and diesel powered generators, a power washer, log splitter and other small gasoline, air cooled engines, basically everything except 2-stroke gasoline engines.

I love only having to buy one engine oil.​
Go read the reviews for yourself
 

9zero1790

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never used Rotella in any of my gas engines but swore by it for the diesels. all the farm trucks and tractors preferred it. tried delo once and it didnt seem to last as long under heavy use before looking like it needed changing. i wouldnt be worried to run rotella in my rangers, they make good quality stuff.
 

Dgc333

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Does the rotella have same rating as what is needed for the ecoboost? Usually diesel oil has a little more zinc and its not a good thing for modern day catalitic converters. If it meets specs should be just fine.
The only T6 with an automotive service rating is 0w-40 and it is SN not the latest SP. SN+ and SP have been formulated to minimize the chances of Low Speed Pre Ignition (LSPI), just for that reason I would not use it in an Ecoboost engine.

If you are using T6 5w-40 you run the risk of a warranty claim being denied if you have an oil related failure because it has not approvals for use in gasoline engines.

I have no doubt that Rotella T6 is very good oil but there are many many oils that are formulated specifically for use in direct injected turbo engines that have the proper certifications for your warranty that there is no real reason to use it.
 


Joeiconic

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I’m 59 and I’ve used the OEM oil in my vehicles my whole life and have never had an oil related issue or failure over probably a million miles of driving. However, I do change my oil religiously at 5000 miles, which I think is more important than the oil brand, so long as the oil meets the OEM specs.
 

fusseli

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I have poured through UOAs over the years and can confirm Rotella T6 has a cult-like following for good reason. It's cheap and it's A+ oil. I used it many times in my rebuilt '84 turbo tbird with 2.3 Lima and it did great, quieted down the hydraulic lifters too.

The only T6 with an automotive service rating is 0w-40 and it is SN not the latest SP. SN+ and SP have been formulated to minimize the chances of Low Speed Pre Ignition (LSPI), just for that reason I would not use it in an Ecoboost engine.

If you are using T6 5w-40 you run the risk of a warranty claim being denied if you have an oil related failure because it has not approvals for use in gasoline engines.

I have no doubt that Rotella T6 is very good oil but there are many many oils that are formulated specifically for use in direct injected turbo engines that have the proper certifications for your warranty that there is no real reason to use it.
This is a very good argument against using T6 it in the GTDI Ranger / 2.3 Cleveland, thank you.

I have gotten a UOA on every oil drain and fill on my Ranger including factory fill. I am sorry to report my findings are that both Motorcraft synth blend and even full synthetic are stretched to their limits with the factory 10k mile OCI. TBN is worn away to the 1.0 level and they sheared well below grade. The last two in a row in the UOA below were the full synthetic. I got a lot of flack at BITOG for those UOAs by the way. I personally think it's fine as Ford intended; end of OCI and oil is worn out ready to be changed. I would like more margin than that going forward, and there is very very little margin for those that might let the change oil warning persist for a month or two beyond 10k.

I recommend using a stouter oil in the Ranger GTDI if you plan on doing the 10k OCI. This last fill I switched to Castrol Edge 5w30 that says 10k OCI on the bottle.

1682267842975.png
 

PoorSpecRanger

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Don't think I would run it in the Ranger but I used to run T6 5W-40 in my turbo Subarus. From my experience it definitely helped with blow by and reduced how much oil I would find in the intercooler and charge piping.

I also ran off spec fluids in the trans axel and rear diff with great results.
 

Floyd

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I have poured through UOAs over the years and can confirm Rotella T6 has a cult-like following for good reason. It's cheap and it's A+ oil. I used it many times in my rebuilt '84 turbo tbird with 2.3 Lima and it did great, quieted down the hydraulic lifters too.



This is a very good argument against using T6 it in the GTDI Ranger / 2.3 Cleveland, thank you.

I have gotten a UOA on every oil drain and fill on my Ranger including factory fill. I am sorry to report my findings are that both Motorcraft synth blend and even full synthetic are stretched to their limits with the factory 10k mile OCI. TBN is worn away to the 1.0 level and they sheared well below grade. The last two in a row in the UOA below were the full synthetic. I got a lot of flack at BITOG for those UOAs by the way. I personally think it's fine as Ford intended; end of OCI and oil is worn out ready to be changed. I would like more margin than that going forward, and there is very very little margin for those that might let the change oil warning persist for a month or two beyond 10k.

I recommend using a stouter oil in the Ranger GTDI if you plan on doing the 10k OCI. This last fill I switched to Castrol Edge 5w30 that says 10k OCI on the bottle.

1682267842975.png
I ran Motorcraft 5W-30 In my Pinto (SVO 2.3L Turbo) 5spd.... No oil consumption, no valve train noise and the car was built specifically to drive hard.... Just about the only time it wasn't in the turbo was the two mile cool down at the end of a drive.

Still... wouldn't it be cheaper just to change the oil at 5000 mile intervals (or even sooner) than to go 10,000 miles on any oil... then waste money on analysis ? sounds like automotive hypochondria! :giggle:
 
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fusseli

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I ran Motorcraft 5W-30 In my Pinto (SVO 2.3L Turbo) 5spd.... No oil consumption, no valve train noise and the car was built specifically to drive hard.... Just about the only time it wasn't in the turbo was the two mile cool down at the end of a drive.

Still... wouldn't it be cheaper just to change the oil at 5000 mile intervals (or even sooner) than to go 10,000 miles on any oil... then waste money on analysis ? sounds like automotive hypochondria! :giggle:
No because I'm a hobbyist and I like to practice science rather than engage in internet myths. Plus you have to admit changing your oil twice as often or three times as often as the data demonstrates no additional wear, and factory recommends, is.... stupid.
 

Floyd

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No because I'm a hobbyist and I like to practice science rather than engage in internet myths. Plus you have to admit changing your oil twice as often or three times as often as the data demonstrates no additional wear, and factory recommends, is.... stupid.
I admit nothing of the sort, nor do I accept your premise.
I too am a hobbyist with more than a half century of experience while also a fleet mechanic for a major oil company. I don't engage in internet myths.
In fleet we considered light duty trucks to be expendable as they wore the truck out beyond practical use in field service long before the engine. That's changing oil annually regardless of miles.
It strains credulity to resort to Ad hominem on such limited information. :rolleyes:

We have done oil analysis on heavy equipment when it was prudent to do so, but never saw the value in light trucks.
On my personal vehicles , I have never had a single part which ran in oil show any wear.

OH! BTW, "science" is the purview of sceptics, not a buzzword for pseudo-intellectuals , and I was doing automotive work when vacuum tubes were still in common use... sooo...(no internet myths):giggle:
 
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fusseli

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I admit nothing of the sort, nor do I accept your premise.
I too am a hobbyist with more than a half century of experience while also a fleet mechanic for a major oil company. I don't engage in internet myths.
In fleet we considered light duty trucks to be expendable as they wore the truck out beyond practical use in field service long before the engine. That's changing oil annually regardless of miles.
It strains credulity to resort to Ad hominem on such limited information. :rolleyes:

We have done oil analysis on heavy equipment when it was prudent to do so, but never saw the value in light trucks.
On my personal vehicles , I have never had a single part which ran in oil show any wear.

OH! BTW, "science" is the purview of sceptics, not a buzzword for pseudo-intellectuals , and I was doing automotive work when vacuum tubes were still in common use... sooo...(no internet myths):giggle:
Keep changing every 5000 then bro ?
 

Floyd

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Keep changing every 5000 then bro ?
Thanks, I will...., except nowadays I have three vehicles which don't get to the requisite mileage biennially, so I waste even more oil servicing them.
I tend to make an arbitrary decision on those based on type of mileage and conditions.
I do think UOAs are fun and interesting and can be useful in some applications. :like:
 

mtsoxfan

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It's funny to read people who say that there is no reason to doubt Ford, and stick with their OEM oil, but then state that they change oil ever 5k miles vs recommended 10k. Dont trust Fords engineers???
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