AGM battery reliability

[AdamHarris]

I believe my battery has Covid as well. 20k miles and 20 mos of ownership and I switched it to 90% via forskin the 2nd month of ownership. ASS hasn't worked in a few months (says “charging”) and it went into deep sleep after sitting for just 3 days.

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[JustinR]

While I admittedly didn't look that closely at it, I'm pretty sure that I have a lead-acid battery (2022 XLT 302A). Is AGM a Lariat feature? Or do I need to look again?
I had had an AGM in my DeLorean years ago because it was highly recommended by many people on many DeLorean forums. The DeLorean has a lot of parasitic draw, and I drive it maybe 10 miles a year - if that. Needless to say, that battery was often dead, and recharging was problematic. I have a plain-old Die Hard lead-acid in there now, with a disconnect switch and a battery maintainer. It's much happier now and so am I; it starts with just a tap of the key.

 

[dtech]

Well It looks like the AGM battery in my Ranger was designed to expire the same day as the truck warranty.
It will still start but it has taken to going to battery saver mode after 24hours parked in a heated garage.
It apparently will no longer hold a full charge and will drop to 12.0V in less than 24hrs.
Now I understand "keep alive" draw, but that should not be this bad. the battery is just getting weaker.
Am I missing something? This is my first AGM Battery.
Does anyone know a good reason not to switch to a flooded lead acid battery?
I have never gotten less than 6 years on an OEM battery in a new car,
then I read that life expectancy on an AGM is 3-1/2 to 4 years.
The price is likely 2-3 times that of a flooded battery with half the life cycle.
I did read from a battery maker that an AGM battery should be manually charged once a month to get maximum life from it.
What say all y'all?

Someone posted prices for agm batts - one at wally mart I believe and it was under $200 . If you are not using the stop/start function I don't see why you couldn't replace with a wet cell, that's what I likely will do when the agm gives it up. The charging logic at 70% is at odds with battery longevity, hence I disco'd the bms , I believe it now charges to 100% of capacity. AGM have characteristics that are better suited to the demands of ASS, in theory they are less prone to sulfation and that should prolong their life but not when consistently undercharged . And they are supposedly more robust in construction which might prevent damage of a physical nature from those who do heavy off road.

 

[airline tech]

While I admittedly didn't look that closely at it, I'm pretty sure that I have a lead-acid battery (2022 XLT 302A). Is AGM a Lariat feature? Or do I need to look again?
I had had an AGM in my DeLorean years ago because it was highly recommended by many people on many DeLorean forums. The DeLorean has a lot of parasitic draw, and I drive it maybe 10 miles a year - if that. Needless to say, that battery was often dead, and recharging was problematic. I have a plain-old Die Hard lead-acid in there now, with a disconnect switch and a battery maintainer. It's much happier now and so am I; it starts with just a tap of the key.

To my knowledge all 5G Rangers have the AGM from factory or everyone would be making swaps.
It is a Lead Acid (AGM) though, no other options listed as equivalent.
The only difference between the Lariats and XLT/XL trims battery wise is the CCA Size, due to more accessories drawing power

 

[Big Blue]

While I admittedly didn't look that closely at it, I'm pretty sure that I have a lead-acid battery (2022 XLT 302A). Is AGM a Lariat feature? Or do I need to look again?
I had had an AGM in my DeLorean years ago because it was highly recommended by many people on many DeLorean forums. The DeLorean has a lot of parasitic draw, and I drive it maybe 10 miles a year - if that. Needless to say, that battery was often dead, and recharging was problematic. I have a plain-old Die Hard lead-acid in there now, with a disconnect switch and a battery maintainer. It's much happier now and so am I; it starts with just a tap of the key.

They are all AGM. The Lariat just has a slightly larger capacity than the XLT and XL.

 

[Floyd]

I believe my battery has Covid as well. 20k miles and 20 mos of ownership and I switched it to 90% via forskin the 2nd month of ownership. ASS hasn't worked in a few months (says “charging”) and it went into deep sleep after sitting for just 3 days.

Mine has not shown any symtoms except it has gone into battery saver mode 2 or 3 times.
That's when I decided to check the battery voltage.

There sure is a lot of battery drain for all the computers and such.
If I shut the key off on my '50 Ford, It will start again after sitting all winter and it gets probably a 100 miles a year... heck, it doesn't even have electrical memory on the radio!

No problems on my 2016 TC or my 1995 Mustang and each has a 550CCA Flooded Lead Acid battery and keep alive power.

 

[Beez]

In an entirely different thread relating to ForScan, I read several fellow Ranger owner's (Like gtyates above) who went in and adjusted their BMS from 70% to 90% or higher. In every case they realized much better overall battery performance, and better still, all of the rogue electrical issues, like door sensors that quit working, and other features, returned to full working order. There are a couple ForScan modules on Amazon that range from around $25 up to $60, but it seems like it would be a worthy investment.

ForScan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1C2436WDJ39HA&psc=1

 

[IdahoRanger]

I should update my Forscan license and make this change since my battery is original on my 2019.

 

[D Fresh]

In an entirely different thread relating to ForScan, I read several fellow Ranger owner's (Like gtyates above) who went in and adjusted their BMS from 70% to 90% or higher. In every case they realized much better overall battery performance, and better still, all of the rogue electrical issues, like door sensors that quit working, and other features, returned to full working order. There are a couple ForScan modules on Amazon that range from around $25 up to $60, but it seems like it would be a worthy investment.

ForScan is worth it for this alone.

I put mine to 95%. No issues at all.

 

[airline tech]

From my post on the Battery Failing -Thread

I plan on bumping the SOC to 80% and see if the voltage readings change @ rest
I did the below tests to get a reference point
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I bought a couple of Voltage Meters from Ebay (cheap) just to get baseline voltage readings from the truck to see what is normal or average for the BMS system

1. The One I like is this one, Accurate as compared to my Fluke Meter @ Battery

Works great, but due to angle of our Power ports you have to view it at angle but readable, might try a brand that have the display facing (upward) if I buy another one, but it does not interfere with shifter or anything, you can read it @ a glance while driving.

Amazon.com: Zeltauto LED Digital Car Voltmeter 12V/24V Vehicle Voltage Gauge Monitor for Auto Car Truck : Automotive

I also bought another style Voltage Meter (with dual USB) ports and this style only reads 12.6volts, so this is regulated to only allow 12 Volts (Charging-Feature) Protection. So don't buy this style for Voltage Check. - Plus, you cannot read the voltage unless you tilt your head all the way down to level with the gauge, quality built for USB purpose but not for this test

Test Results:

My Truck - 22 - (3 Months Old) - So new - Now my A/Start is deleted from Factory, so I don't have that to factor in on battery discharge (wear)

I Thought that this post might help in determining if your battery is on the way out.
as I would consider these readings normal without any FORscan changes to the SOC from 70%

Average @ Rest Voltage = 12.2 to 12.7 Volts after sitting for 12 hours (Truck Off)

Driving @ Night - Sys Loaded, Radio/HVAC-Auto/ Headlights & Fogs On - 13.5 Volts to 15.0 Volts
Varies depending on (BMS Charging Phase) most common is 14.7 Volts
Voltage does not fluctuate it just varies with each drive and weather it is in refresh phase (Charging)

Idle in Park:
System Loaded - Radio-HVAC On & (Blower-High)- Headlights/Fogs On = 13.5 Volts
System Unloaded -All Items above - Off = 12.4 Volts

Starting:
Lowest I have seen it drop down to is 12.0 Volts, after starter disengages jumps to 14.5 to 15.0 Volts and then settles to 13.5 to 14.8 Volts (To replenish charge from the starter draw)
On this specific test - I don't know how accurate the gauge is due to @ this point the PowerPoints are in transition of power transfer - (On/Off/On), Note: I did this test with PowerPoints still active at start - (Not Timed Out)

Truck Off - Sitting it Truck / Lights -Timed-Out / Radio on - 12.6 Volts then After Radio Time Out (10 Minutes) / Door Opened & Closed - Lights Timed Out - 12.2 Volts, after sitting @ rest Voltage will climb to 12.4 to 12.7 Volts (Residual Voltage Returning to the Battery)

So, this confirms that 12.2 is the minimal voltage you may see and as described in the service manual - (In a Normal working system)

So, by using the various AGM Battery SOC charts, there are a ton of them online. 12.2 V = 70% SOC
If I am correct this is how the 70% SOC factors in (It's the minimal voltage the system will allow in a normal charging phase. Basically, no voltage lower than 12.2 Volts (Is its functional goal) I cannot verify this by documentation as I cannot locate anything that puts this in black and white. But If I am correct, I understand it better
Before this test, I understood it to keep battery at 70% SOC (Max) and I could not wrap my head around that to make sense
Note: The AGM SOC charts vary with voltage, depending on Deep Cycle Marine Battery or not and found one that appeared to be correct info

 

[Cabose-1]

This is an issue for all makes with agm batteries. Have seen it on jeeps, mazda, ford, and huyndai. All with 15 to 30k miles all agm. Just dont make them like they used to i guess.
I hate saying this because i am such a fan boy of ford.
But ............honestly, they are all made as cheap as possible. I think japanese car makers still being a little more consistent with quality. As my experience, wrenching on cars.

 

[D Fresh]

From my post on the Battery Failing -Thread

I plan on bumping the SOC to 80% and see if the voltage readings change @ rest
I did the below tests to get a reference point
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I bought a couple of Voltage Meters from Ebay (cheap) just to get baseline voltage readings from the truck to see what is normal or average for the BMS system

1. The One I like is this one, Accurate as compared to my Fluke Meter @ Battery

Works great, but due to angle of our Power ports you have to view it at angle but readable, might try a brand that have the display facing (upward) if I buy another one, but it does not interfere with shifter or anything, you can read it @ a glance while driving.

Amazon.com: Zeltauto LED Digital Car Voltmeter 12V/24V Vehicle Voltage Gauge Monitor for Auto Car Truck : Automotive

I also bought another style Voltage Meter (with dual USB) ports and this style only reads 12.6volts, so this is regulated to only allow 12 Volts (Charging-Feature) Protection. So don't buy this style for Voltage Check. - Plus, you cannot read the voltage unless you tilt your head all the way down to level with the gauge, quality built for USB purpose but not for this test

Test Results:

My Truck - 22 - (3 Months Old) - So new - Now my A/Start is deleted from Factory, so I don't have that to factor in on battery discharge (wear)

I Thought that this post might help in determining if your battery is on the way out.
as I would consider these readings normal without any FORscan changes to the SOC from 70%

Average @ Rest Voltage = 12.2 to 12.7 Volts after sitting for 12 hours (Truck Off)

Driving @ Night - Sys Loaded, Radio/HVAC-Auto/ Headlights & Fogs On - 13.5 Volts to 15.0 Volts
Varies depending on (BMS Charging Phase) most common is 14.7 Volts
Voltage does not fluctuate it just varies with each drive and weather it is in refresh phase (Charging)

Idle in Park:
System Loaded - Radio-HVAC On & (Blower-High)- Headlights/Fogs On = 13.5 Volts
System Unloaded -All Items above - Off = 12.4 Volts

Starting:
Lowest I have seen it drop down to is 12.0 Volts, after starter disengages jumps to 14.5 to 15.0 Volts and then settles to 13.5 to 14.8 Volts (To replenish charge from the starter draw)
On this specific test - I don't know how accurate the gauge is due to @ this point the PowerPoints are in transition of power transfer - (On/Off/On), Note: I did this test with PowerPoints still active at start - (Not Timed Out)

Truck Off - Sitting it Truck / Lights -Timed-Out / Radio on - 12.6 Volts then After Radio Time Out (10 Minutes) / Door Opened & Closed - Lights Timed Out - 12.2 Volts, after sitting @ rest Voltage will climb to 12.4 to 12.7 Volts (Residual Voltage Returning to the Battery)

So, this confirms that 12.2 is the minimal voltage you may see and as described in the service manual - (In a Normal working system)

So, by using the various AGM Battery SOC charts, there are a ton of them online. 12.2 V = 70% SOC
If I am correct this is how the 70% SOC factors in (It's the minimal voltage the system will allow in a normal charging phase. Basically, no voltage lower than 12.2 Volts (Is its functional goal) I cannot verify this by documentation as I cannot locate anything that puts this in black and white. But If I am correct, I understand it better
Before this test, I understood it to keep battery at 70% SOC (Max) and I could not wrap my head around that to make sense
Note: The AGM SOC charts vary with voltage, depending on Deep Cycle Marine Battery or not and found one that appeared to be correct info

Good info.

But why only 80%?

Everything I've read says that AGMs work best and last longest when 100% charged.

Is it just a baby step to try to find the "right" setting?

 

[D Fresh]

This is an issue for all makes with agm batteries. Have seen it on jeeps, mazda, ford, and huyndai. All with 15 to 30k miles all agm. Just dont make them like they used to i guess.
I hate saying this because i am such a fan boy of ford.
But ............honestly, they are all made as cheap as possible. I think japanese car makers still being a little more consistent with quality. As my experience, wrenching on cars.

This is my first experience with an AGM.

But I'm going strong with my BMS settings. Almost 40k miles and 2 years after the truck sat around 4 months waiting to be sold.

 

[airline tech]

My biggest issue with the BMS system is that I cannot locate any real documentation on how it works, only half- *** descriptions, even the Ranger Service manual only mentions that it is designed to monitor Refresh Phase and if over 80% state of charge for long periods of time, increased risk of battery cell sulfation. Note: it only states monitor (not control it)
Not one mention of the 70% setting we see with FORscan, online searches are no help either
But with my testing I think I understand it now, and will play with the setting (SOC) to see what changes in voltage actually happen

 

[airline tech]

Good info.

But why only 80%?

Everything I've read says that AGMs work best and last longest when 100% charged.

Is it just a baby step to try to find the "right" setting?

Yes, Baby Step, this is what is frustrating, one site says AGM 100% and another says 80% and then our ranger has 70% (via FORscan) visible.
What is the correct info? it's all over the place on finding info (documented) and verified correct
even the AGM SOC charts jump all over the place, what I can tell is that the old school 12.6 is now 13.0 volts with AGM

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