Aftermarket Headlights - Wiring & Issues (Group Help)

[airline tech]

This is going to be a - add sections as I go and will update gradually, rather than the complete post at once as I am gathering info for the aftermarkets


Due to the great number of issues members are having with all Aftermarket Headlights, I wanted to attempt to find a resolution and to bring a full understanding of how differ in wiring and why they push the use of tapping a power source.
I do not have aftermarkets, but I did swap my Lariat (LED) Deleted headlamps (Halo's) for Factory LED Headlamps & Fogs to bring it back to how it was ordered.

I used the As-Built data files and crossed checked (Halo & LED) in the As-Built files for various VIN's and found that all (Halo) and all (LED) were set up differently.
I took the LED Lariat settings and made the As-Built changes as needed in the BCM.

So, I know exactly all As-Built Data files that need changed to swap from Halo's to Factory LED's - Simple and work Flawlessly.

So, we will start with ALL Rangers are wired the same (for lighting) the change occurs at the Headlight Assemblies themselves and how they are pinned out at the Headlight (Component Side)

Here we have the Halo Headlight Connector (Harness Plug & Headlight Connector)
NOTE: Pin #6 is missing - this is due to the fact that the Halo's provide DRL Power to the Low Beam @ 50% Power
The BCM - is set the do this and no power is applied to PIN #6 (from the BCM to the Harness Connector)
Power for the Halo Headlamps from the BCM is as follows (As-Built Data) Specific:
I need to get my Forscan settings set back to OE (Halo) settings and actually VERIFY which of the following is TRUE
1. The BCM does not provide power on Pin #6 at all for the Halo (As-Built) settings
2. The BCM provides power to Pin #6 (Harness Side) but since it is deleted in the Headlight Connector - It Dead Ends
This is a valuable piece of information that is needed as this will truly tell me what the BCM is doing with power outputs.

Low Beam:
Power = Pin #2 (12 Volts)
Ground = Pin # 8

DRL:
Power = Pin #2 (6-Volts)
Ground = Pin # 8

High Beam:
Power = Pin #3
Ground = Pin #8

Parking Lights:
Power = Pin # 5
Ground = Pin # 1

Turn Signals:
Power = Pin # 7
Ground = Pin # 1

Ref: Note Pins 4 & 8 are spliced together (within the wire harness) Grounds

Halo Connector (Factory OE) - Pin #6 Missing on the Headlight (DRL-Circuit)

EDIT: UPDATE 2/28/25
---
I wanted to verify my above voltage (wire checks) for the factory Halo (BCM-As-Built) power
I reset all As-Builts back to Factory (OE) settings for the Halo's as they were installed.

DRL's (Only)
Initially I had 12 Volts on Pin 2 (Low Beam) and 12 Volts on Pin 5 (Park) but the sun was setting, and I think my Headlamps Triggered (ON)
Tried again (Today) in the full sun, no matter how I configured it, I could not get any power readings at all (When) DRL's should be on, I even tried back probing, DTC Resets, IPC selection (On & Off) and having both headlamp connectors off, the dash (IPC) indicated headlamps were off so DRL should be on (In Neutral/Drive)
I even tried (commanding them on with my scan tool)- got request cancelled.
Grr - So frustrating, with me having my (LED) headlamps installed and not having a visual indication for just (Low Beam) Bulbs its hard to tell.
I may have to revisit this

I am thinking that since I have LED Headlamps installed, its looking for resistance from the Low Beam (Bulb) which is not installed and the circuit is not activating, the only way to test this theory is to try to temp install the (Halo) on either side and test from the other - or put a resistor in the test circuit (Low Beam)
I think this (TEST) is SHOWING me, how the aftermarkets are responding, and the various issues members are getting

Low Beams (On)
Power on Pin 2 (Low Beam) 12 volts
Power on Pin 5 (Park Lamps) 12 volts
Pin 3 (High Beam) 0-Volts
Power on Pin 7 (Turns) Turn (ON) 12 Volts (Fluctuating)

High Beams (On)
Power on Pin 3 (High Beam) 12-Volts
Power on Pin 2 (Low Beam) 12-Volts
Power on Pin 5 (Park) 12-Volts
Power on Pin 7 (Turns) Turn (ON) 12 Volts (Fluctuating)

Park Lamps (Only)
Power on Pin 5 (Park) 12-Volts
Power on Pin 7 (Turns) Turn (ON) 12 Volts (Fluctuating)
Pin 2 and Pin 3 = 0-Volts (Low & High Beam)

So at least I know with this circuit (set-up) for High Beams it is pushing power to both circuits
---
End Of Update

Now let's look at the factory LED (Harness Plug & Headlight Connector)
Note: Pin #6 is filled, and Pin #8 is missing

Power for the LED Headlamps is as follows from the BCM (As Built Data) Specific:

Low Beam:
Power = Pin #2
Ground = Pin #4

High Beam:
Power = Pin #3
Ground = Pin# 4

DRL:
Power = Pin #6 (LED Strip Bright)
Ground = Pin #4

Parking Lights:
Power = Pin #5 (LED Strip Dim)
Ground = Pin #4

Turn Signal:
Power = Pin # 7
Ground = Pin #1

Note: The LED Assemblies use the same dual filament bulb as the Halo housings use but it is only wire for Turn Signals, the Parking Light is moved to the LED strip that is shared with the DRL circuit. (This bulb and wire change is integral to the headlight housing)

Note: For the LED Pin #8 is missing on the Headlight Connector - this is a Ground that is spliced shared with Pin #4


EDIT: UPDATE 2/28/25
---
I wanted to confirm the power from the BCM with the (As Built) set for Lariat Trims and Factory LED Headlamps - Power Confirmed with meter

DRL:
Pin 6 (DRL) 12-Volts
Pins 2-3 & 5 = 0-Volts
Pin 7 (Turns) 12-Volts (Flashing) with turn (On)

Low Beam:
Pin 2 - (Low Beam) 12 -Volts
Pin 5 (Park) 12-Volts
Pin 3 (High Beam) = 0-Volts
Pin 6 (DRL) = 0-Volts
Pin 7 (Turns) 12-Volts (Flashing) with turn (On)

High Beam:
Pin 3 (High Beam) 12-Volts
Pin 2 (low Beam) = 0-Volts
Pin 5 (Park) 12-Volts
Pin 6 (DRL) = 0-Volts
Pin 7 (Turns) 12-Volts (Flashing) with turn (On)

Park (Only)
Pin 5 -(Park) 12-Volts
Pins 2 - 3 and 6 - = 0-Volts - Low Beam / High Beam & DRL
This circuit also flashes power when (Door Lock & Door Ajar) is triggered

So, this clearly shows how much of a difference the As-Built data changes power output from the BCM. Between the Halo & LED housings and the importance of changing the As-Builts.

---
End Of Update

So, even for Factory OE, it requires a change in the As-Built data to configure how the BCM supplies power (output) to the headlights between the Halo and LED configuration.



Thus, bring in the Aftermarket Lighting options and the requirement of them wanting you to use a (Fuse Tapped) Power Source.
The reason for them wanting this is simple - They CANNOT market a product and use the term (PLUG & PLAY) without it.
As they cannot market a product and then state (You MUST make changes to the As-Built Data Files) for them to work properly.
NOTE: The VAST MAJORITY of owners who upgrade are upgrading from HALO's.
Note: Above how the Halo's are pinned, and that Pin #6 is missing from the Halo (housing) and the factory BCM (As-Built) data is not producing a power output supply on that circuit.

This is the sole reason for the Tapped Power Source, it is NOT REQUIRED, but you MUST make the changes in Forscan to tell the BCM to power the headlamps as LED and not Halo's. (DRL Circuit) and (The Low Beam Circuit) as without making changes the BCM is still providing power to the (Low Beam) circuit (Pin #2) as the BCM still is programed as such

EDIT - Update 2/28/25
Here is a (Side By Side) Compare as I have for now for Power Output from the BCM.
This shows the importance of (Forscan) changes to get the BCM to properly power any headlamp that is installed.
I cannot get a valid - test of the DRL Circuit with the LED Housings Installed
I think the (issue) with not getting a valid test result is due to the BCM looking for a (Resistance) in the Low Beam Circuit (To Trigger) the DRL's to (ON), which I do not have (since) I have the LED assemblies installed.
The manuals for (DRL) T-Shoot only have you check for codes and ensure the (DRL) is enabled in the IPC and then has you go to the Low Beam circuit and Test for power with the (Headlamps -ON)
So, with Halogen Headlamps, there is not a specific wire check, so I am thinking that when the circuit is (Complete) the DRL's will enable, this takes the Halo's to be installed as a Back-Probe of the circuit to test it with LED assemblies installed or one or both connectors dis-connected the BCM sees this as an (OPEN) circuit
I think this (ISSUE) that I am having and found is transferring over to the LED Headlights and generating issues and this also leads me to believe that this is the primary reason for adding a (TAPPED) power source to get the DRL's to function correctly (without) any Forscan changes

The problem is: The BCM does not like that Tapped Power Source
If the Aftermarkets (Include) PIN #6 in the (Assembly Connector) then if I am correct the Tapped Power Sorce is (NOT NEEDED) and you only need to make the changes in Forscan for them to function (as if they were the Factory LED's)

If there is not a Pin 6 - in the (Assembly Connector) then instead of tapping a fused power source, one may try (Wire Tapping) the Pin #6 (DRL Wire) on the harness side and connect it to the (Assembly Harness) they have set up for the Fused Power Source, this way all you need to do is set up the As-Built files for the factory LED Housings, and they SHOULD function normally.
The Only (Unknown) is what specific circuit does each aftermarket (Tap Fused Power - For)
Is it the DRL Circuit or Low Beam or Park Lamp - They all call it the DRL but is it truly the (BCM-Pin #6 DRL Circuit.
As this will affect the (extra's) - Start Up Sequence, Sequential Turns Etc.

BCM Power Output Compare - Halo vs LED
As-Built Data (Specific) between Halo & LED adjusts Power Outputs to the Lights
Note: Halo Housings do NOT Have Pin #6 for the Dedicated DRL Circuit as the DRL circuit powers off of the Low Beam circuit.
Note: The Indicated 12-Volts is actually full battery voltage (Charging) so any voltage volage reading in the charging voltage range is normal and is (normally noted) as 12 -Volts

----
END of Update


Aftermarket Options:

Section 1 - Morimoto's

Per the Online Video provided by (Headlight Revolution)
Fuse Tap the DRL Wire (Blue) to Fuse #19 (Switched Power)
Option (Connector) for Sequential or Standard Turn Signal (Blink/Flash) - Connected = Sequential / Disconnected = Standard

The UNKNOWNs as of this writing as I can find no detailed install info (PDF) for how the connector is wired (Component Side)
What pins if any are missing from the Headlight Connector? (IMPORTANT - Need to Know)
What is the (White Insulation) Wire for? Ref Pic Below
What Wire - in the connector is actually being (Fuse Tapped)? is this pin #6?
What circuit - is the trigger for the Start Up Sequence? is this pin #2 for Low Beam or another pin?

I am working on T-Shoot for issues with these lights, but I do not have the relevant info and seek help from members who have installed them or have a set (uninstalled) and a multi-meter to find the unanswered questions.

So, anyone who can provide any extra info here - please post

Best pic (screenshot) I can find of the Morimoto Connector (Cannot See what I need to know)

Sponsored

 

[Big Blue]

OK, not sure if this will help or confuse the issue more. As I've said before I have OLM by Coplus headlights installed in my '19 XLT Ranger. Which I really like. They are said to be the same as the Morimotos. The only physical difference I've notices is that mine has a external relay mounted on the back, where there are a couple bosses just to the right of the the other small box, in the picture above, where the white covered wire goes into. Otherwise it has all the same connections.

The box where the white covers wires goes into, I believe is a resistor to eliminate hyperflash.

In the picture below, it shows that in the picture below, the headlight connector is missing pin #6.

In the picture of the Morimoto lights the purple and orange wire shown disconnected are for activating the sequentially turn indicators when connected. When disconnected the turn indicators will be solid flashing.

My thoughts on the switched power fuse tapped wire is to provide power to the DRLs anytime the engine is running regardless of the position of the light switch. They will be on full brightness as long as no other lights are on. If any other lights are on (headlights, or parking/tail) they will go to half brightness.

As full disclosure, I have my DTL conditions set to allow all options. I have my lighting set up in Forscan to have my fog lights set to be my DRLs along with including my parking lights. I have my DRLs enabled enabled in my dash menus also. Switch in Auto all the time.

When I start truck, with it light out, the DRLS come on full bright after being on half bright with parking lights from opening the door. Headlights go through their sequence and shut off. When I take it out of park, my DRLs got to half bright and my fogs and park/tail lights come on. Not sure what happens when it gets dark while driving.

When starting while it's dark out. Lights go through startup sequence and end with headlights and park/tail lights on. And fogs come on when taking out of park.

I have to assume the the headlight startup sequence is triggered as part of the powering up of the tapped power curcuit as it happens when it is light out also. The headlights go through their sequence and shut off or stay on depending on ambient light.

I other lights may work differently based on the logic in the control board in the lights. I hope this will help add to the data base that @airline tech is building

 

[Cinci36]

, alpha rex nova series are great, the whole system is plug and play, the instructions are wonderful, detailed and in color, basically remove lights insert new ones, plug it in done, if want the led running lights you need to remove this fuse and plug their connector in and turn the trucks drl off and done.. they have sequential blinkers..

 

[Big Blue]

Tried a couple things on mine last night and this morning and think I figured out the tapped power requirement. It powers the DRL LEDs and also triggers and powers the startup sequence of the headlights regardless of switch position or dash DRL setting.

With the truck in park and the light switch off the DRLs still come on and the headlights still go through their startup sequence when truck is started. At this point the BCM should not be supplying any power to the headlight.

Second test: Removed tapped power fuse at fuse box. No DRL lights or startup sequence. All other lights functioned normally with switch (high and low beam headlights, parking, sequential turns indicators). Only thing missing was DRL LEDs/parking.

 

[airline tech]

I did some updates
For Ref:
I will add

EDIT: UPDATE (Date)
---
and

END of Update

To any updates I add

 

[Cinci36]

, alpha rex nova series are great, the whole system is plug and play, the instructions are wonderful, detailed and in color, basically remove lights insert new ones, plug it in done, if want the led running lights you need to remove this fuse and plug their connector in and turn the trucks drl off and done.. they have sequential blinkers..

If you can plug into this fuse, it is hot continuous when key is on.. it is for the led drls

 

[airline tech]

OK, not sure if this will help or confuse the issue more. As I've said before I have OLM by Coplus headlights installed in my '19 XLT Ranger. Which I really like. They are said to be the same as the Morimotos. The only physical difference I've notices is that mine has a external relay mounted on the back, where there are a couple bosses just to the right of the the other small box, in the picture above, where the white covered wire goes into. Otherwise it has all the same connections.

The box where the white covers wires goes into, I believe is a resistor to eliminate hyperflash.

In the picture below, it shows that in the picture below, the headlight connector is missing pin #6.

In the picture of the Morimoto lights the purple and orange wire shown disconnected are for activating the sequentially turn indicators when connected. When disconnected the turn indicators will be solid flashing.

My thoughts on the switched power fuse tapped wire is to provide power to the DRLs anytime the engine is running regardless of the position of the light switch. They will be on full brightness as long as no other lights are on. If any other lights are on (headlights, or parking/tail) they will go to half brightness.

As full disclosure, I have my DTL conditions set to allow all options. I have my lighting set up in Forscan to have my fog lights set to be my DRLs along with including my parking lights. I have my DRLs enabled enabled in my dash menus also. Switch in Auto all the time.

When I start truck, with it light out, the DRLS come on full bright after being on half bright with parking lights from opening the door. Headlights go through their sequence and shut off. When I take it out of park, my DRLs got to half bright and my fogs and park/tail lights come on. Not sure what happens when it gets dark while driving.

When starting while it's dark out. Lights go through startup sequence and end with headlights and park/tail lights on. And fogs come on when taking out of park.

I have to assume the the headlight startup sequence is triggered as part of the powering up of the tapped power curcuit as it happens when it is light out also. The headlights go through their sequence and shut off or stay on depending on ambient light.

I other lights may work differently based on the logic in the control board in the lights. I hope this will help add to the data base that @airline tech is building

Well that at least answers some questions - Thank You
No Pin #6 most likely the same for the Morimoto's
Tapped Power Source for DRL's (Always) On (Switched Power)
The Parking Lights (Pin #5) is the trigger for the Start-Up Sequence.
I am guessing they have a micro control relay that pulses power long enough for the (Start-Up) Sequence (If Daylight) they turn OFF - If Nighttime they remain (Powered)
I did not realize that the (Start-Up) sequence would activate anytime any power was applied to the light (Park) light, I assumed it was only (Headlight - Low Beam Power) that triggered it.

I am curious - on operation of these lights without any Forscan Changes, as most with issues fully expect Plug and Play with you moving power around via Forscan and they work tells me that Forscan changes will make them work properly.
An Option
To get full operation as a (Factory LED) and only have the DRL (In Auto) then it may be a possibility to (move the Fused Tapped) power to (Wire Tap) Pin #6 (DRL) Circuit wire on the harness side.
And then make the (Forscan) changes to match the Factory LED's for those that do not want any special (DRL +) options
The Start-Up Sequence should still trigger (with the Park Lamp) power pulse and the DRL should function as (Only On) in (Auto) and IPC DRL -Selected (ON)

 

[airline tech]

, alpha rex nova series are great, the whole system is plug and play, the instructions are wonderful, detailed and in color, basically remove lights insert new ones, plug it in done, if want the led running lights you need to remove this fuse and plug their connector in and turn the trucks drl off and done.. they have sequential blinkers..

The AlphaRex is another that is not (Component Side) pinned for DRL Pin #6, thus the reason for Tapped Power.
There is an issue though as the Tapped Power Source in the Guide (Above) is fuse #24.
That spot is EMPTY and no contacts for a fuse, that location is SWITCHED Power, so you have to find another switched power fuse.
as with the Morimoto's without Pin #6 instead of Tapping a fused source, you can possibly just wiretap the harness side of the (DRL) wire Pin #6 and then make the changes in Forscan to move power.
This way you can make them function just like the factory LED headlamp housings.

 

[Big Blue]

Well that at least answers some questions - Thank You
No Pin #6 most likely the same for the Morimoto's
Tapped Power Source for DRL's (Always) On (Switched Power)
The Parking Lights (Pin #5) is the trigger for the Start-Up Sequence.
I am guessing they have a micro control relay that pulses power long enough for the (Start-Up) Sequence (If Daylight) they turn OFF - If Nighttime they remain (Powered)
I did not realize that the (Start-Up) sequence would activate anytime any power was applied to the light (Park) light, I assumed it was only (Headlight - Low Beam Power) that triggered it.

I am curious - on operation of these lights without any Forscan Changes, as most with issues fully expect Plug and Play with you moving power around via Forscan and they work tells me that Forscan changes will make them work properly.
An Option
To get full operation as a (Factory LED) and only have the DRL (In Auto) then it may be a possibility to (move the Fused Tapped) power to (Wire Tap) Pin #6 (DRL) Circuit wire on the harness side.
And then make the (Forscan) changes to match the Factory LED's for those that do not want any special (DRL +) options
The Start-Up Sequence should still trigger (with the Park Lamp) power pulse and the DRL should function as (Only On) in (Auto) and IPC DRL -Selected (ON)

I actually beleive that it is the tapped power coming on that triggers the startup sequence as it only happen when the truck is first started. And it is powered by the tapped power. When I removed the tapped power I got no DRL and no startup sequence. But, the headlights and turn indicators worked as normal. Just no front parking lights except marker and tail. They probably use the parking signal from the BCM to trigger whether the DRLs are on bright or dim.

They will operate without any Forscan changes (plug and play) as long as DRLs are turned off in the ICP menus. This will stop the BCM from trying to power the low beams. I had made changes because I wanted to have my fogs as DRL instead of low beams and include parking lights. Pet leave of mine is that DRLs in the US don't include taillights. So when I installed my lights I had to make no Forscan changes. With my setup the DRLs are on any time the truck is running regardless of switch position. With the switch in Auto my fogs and parking/tail lights come on when I take it out of park.

Not sure what the extra relay on mine is for unless it is to isolate the startup sequence from back feeding the BCM during startup.

I think trying to use the pin #6 feed from the BCM to feed the DRLs instead of tapped power will mess up the built-in logic on the headlights.

 

[Cinci36]

The AlphaRex is another that is not (Component Side) pinned for DRL Pin #6, thus the reason for Tapped Power.
There is an issue though as the Tapped Power Source in the Guide (Above) is fuse #24.
That spot is EMPTY and no contacts for a fuse, that location is SWITCHED Power, so you have to find another switched power fuse.
as with the Morimoto's without Pin #6 instead of Tapping a fused source, you can possibly just wiretap the harness side of the (DRL) wire Pin #6 and then make the changes in Forscan to move power.
This way you can make them function just like the factory LED headlamp housings.

The AlphaRex is another that is not (Component Side) pinned for DRL Pin #6, thus the reason for Tapped Power.
There is an issue though as the Tapped Power Source in the Guide (Above) is fuse #24.
That spot is EMPTY and no contacts for a fuse, that location is SWITCHED Power, so you have to find another switched power fuse.
as with the Morimoto's without Pin #6 instead of Tapping a fused source, you can possibly just wiretap the harness side of the (DRL) wire Pin #6 and then make the changes in Forscan to move power.
This way you can make them function just like the factory LED headlamp housings.

I will take a picture of my fuse box latter today, I put the wire where I was instructed, and poof it worked, maybe ford change something, don't know, I know my friend
with a 2020 ranger had to have someone installed his morimoto lights due to wiring issues...

 

[airline tech]

I actually beleive that it is the tapped power coming on that triggers the startup sequence as it only happen when the truck is first started. And it is powered by the tapped power. When I removed the tapped power I got no DRL and no startup sequence. But, the headlights and turn indicators worked as normal. Just no front parking lights except marker and tail. They probably use the parking signal from the BCM to trigger whether the DRLs are on bright or dim.

They will operate without any Forscan changes (plug and play) as long as DRLs are turned off in the ICP menus. This will stop the BCM from trying to power the low beams. I had made changes because I wanted to have my fogs as DRL instead of low beams and include parking lights. Pet leave of mine is that DRLs in the US don't include taillights. So when I installed my lights I had to make no Forscan changes. With my setup the DRLs are on any time the truck is running regardless of switch position. With the switch in Auto my fogs and parking/tail lights come on when I take it out of park.

Not sure what the extra relay on mine is for unless it is to isolate the startup sequence from back feeding the BCM during startup.

I think trying to use the pin #6 feed from the BCM to feed the DRLs instead of tapped power will mess up the built-in logic on the headlights.

I agree that they are (Tapping the Fuse) to get power to the light assembly which would be Pin #6 if it was pinned for it.
and without Forscan changes there will never be power fed on pin #6 from the BCM if you are going from Halogens to LED, now the Factory LED housings (US Version) are set up to apply power on pin#6 only when the (DRL's) are active - so this means even if you (wire tap) the DRL Harness for the (Morimoto) lights - you will only get the (Start Up) sequence when the DRL's are activated.
which would be (daytime & out of park) so the (Start-Up) sequence would not work at night.


I am working on trying to find the SPECIFIC As-Built file that will turn (ON) the DRL Power Feed (Pin #6 using the BCM) to do it. The same as the (Tapped Fuse Power Source)
and the answer is going to be in the (DRL) control, and it will be set up just like the Canadian version trucks - DRL always powered along with (park - tail & side marker) even with the headlight switch in (OFF)
This will completely disable any (auto) DRL and the IPC selection is removed as they will always be on.
I completed the As-Built compare using a 2022 Lariat (Canadian) as this would be after the Law was put into effect and mandated the DRL's to always be (ON) - I also checked with a 2019 Lariat (Candian) and can see all changes they made in the BCM & IPC.
I just need to make some changes and get my meter on pin #6 to see which one (applies) the power (switched) at engine start.

Essentially your (Headlight) DRL is only operating as it should when in park, and this is do to you moving the DRL lighting via Forscan (All Options) and also (plus+) Fogs & + Park Lights
I am also trying to find the specific (As-Bult) file (that changes) when you are in the IPC menu and turn off (DRL Lighting)
As this will tell me, with a tapped power source feeding pin #6, the BCM will not see it and as far as the BCM is concerned the (Low Beam) circuit is still the DRL, and if you do not deselect the IPC menu selection - it will continue to power the (Low Beam) circuit as such.
Basically - I want to know - when the IPC is selected (OFF) is the power to the Low Beams truly cut off.


It's not so much the Low Beam circuit - it's the Tie into the Park Lights
In a Halo Powered Circuit - The Park Lights are commanded (OFF) when the Low Beam is triggered (On as a DRL), so when you install a aftermarket light and use a tapped power source to Pin #6, and then Turn off the (IPC) control for DRL (Low Beams) the BCM will not apply power to the Park Lamp circuit when the DRL (is active)
This would explain why - there are so many issues (for some) with the Start-Up Sequence and the Morimoto lights, its takes Forscan along with the tapped power source.


As I still feel strongly - the PLUG and PLAY is not working for all and the BCM power control is the issue, and it needs to be configured just like the Factory LED Housings, with one exception (The Morimoto's) and their Start Up Sequence throws a wrench in those settings that needs to be addressed.

 

[Cinci36]

Ok, on the alpharex lights everything is on the light to make it work, the ford plug is missing the led part if you do not have the lariat version, but the alpharex has an extra connector. To hook to the battery, positive side and the fuse box to bypass not having the wired plug. This fixes everything without hacking up a wiring harness. Then you go into the left steering wheel control and turn off the drls.. now the lights stay off, as the drls, and led strip stays on.. the fuse block slot used on my truck is only pinned on one side.

 

[Big Blue]

Ok, on the alpharex lights everything is on the light to make it work, the ford plug is missing the led part if you do not have the lariat version, but the alpharex has an extra connector. To hook to the battery, positive side and the fuse box to bypass not having the wired plug. This fixes everything without hacking up a wiring harness. Then you go into the left steering wheel control and turn off the drls.. now the lights stay off, as the drls, and led strip stays on.. the fuse block slot used on my truck is only pinned on one side.

The Morimotos/OLMs work the same way. The Forscan changes I made were .y own choice and were done long before I installed my OLM lights. They were not necessary for the install. The only change needed would have been turning off the DRLs in the IPC menus.

 

[airline tech]

Ref: Fuse #24, my 2022 for fuse #24 and (ALL) other fuses listed as (Not Used) the fuse locations are not pinned at all - for input or output, so Ford changed how it is wired.

I noted that the AlphaRex light assemblies - also do not have Pin #6 on the (Component Side)

So, these are working for you - and no Forscan Changes and I am assuming you have a 2019 and Fuse #24 is a (Unused) fuse location.
The alternative (where) members are tapping is Fuse #19, this is a used fuse location for the PSCM - Power Steering Control Module.

So, in your video (Remote Start) the Run/Start Relay is closing - sending power to Fuse #24 and no other power users on that fuse other than the Power Feed for Pin #6

For a truck that does not have Fuse #24, then the alternate location is Fuse #19, that fuse is also being powered by the Run/Start Relay, and that fuse is sending power to the PSCM, I think at initial power up the amperage draw from the (PSCM) is pulling down the circuit and the (Alpharex - Headlamps) take the hit as there is not enough power to generate the (Start-Up) sequence.
This may be a source for the various Alphrex issues that (SOME) are having, so for those then we need to find a dedicated power source or a higher amperage (switched) power source that can handle the (Alpharex) on the circuit at (Truck Power Up)
or
Wire Tap - Pin #6 (Harness Side) for the power and then make the Forscan Changes to get the BCM to provide that power output on Pin #6, the key is finding the (As-Built) data file withing the BCM programming that will provide that power (At start up) to get the headlights to function the exact same as if you were tapped into (Fuse #24) which is not available for all trucks.
I will be diving into that and need to do some (diagnostic) to find it.

Another alternative (if needed) is to use (Fuse #19) to provide a power source for the (Coil Side) of a relay and then direct to battery (one side) of the relay and then tap the headlamp power to the (other side)
This way you still have switched power for the headlamps but are only drawing from Fuse #19 for relay coil vs the full amperage draw to power Pin #6

 

[Cinci36]

Mine is one of the first generation 2019, I know since my truck they dropped standard features and change other things

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