A Tip for Battery Accessory Connections

OregonRangerTremor

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Many of us install accessories that often require connection to the battery. Now a negative connection can be made at any body area where there is a ground....BUT....this is not a 70's pick up with a lot of metal to metal grounded contact and screws everywhere....a lot of plastic and some paint to paint connections where there is no continuity of ground. So we often go to the battery. Negative=black side. On the Positive red side; for those without upfitter switches you will have the same issue. If you have upfitter switches your red connection is made at the pre-wired upfitter switch connection (under the mini fuse box for upfitter switches). WHAT IS THE ISSUE? Not enough room on the factory accessory bolt on the battery for more than 2-3 connections. 2 is about it as you run out of threads to get the nut back on.

I had this issue and I knew I have at least one more accessory to wire up. There are some aftermarket accessory blocks you can purchase, but some just will not fit in the tight areas we are dealing with. SO this is what I did; get a conductive metal bar 2-3" long, drill a hole at each end. One end connects to the factory accessory point and on the other end, put a longer bolt in the other hole, bolt it on with nuts and lock washers. I found a cheap small connector-took it apart and used the bar inside of it as the entire connector would not work (see link). I topped it off by placing a black rubber bolt end cap on top. See photos. FYI, if you do not have upfitter switches, you need to do this to your positive/red terminal too. Additional note: I placed my Battery Tender Cable and the "bar" onto the factory accessory bolt....and then I am placing all my lighting accessory wires to the other end of the bar to the new accessory/longer bolt that I installed. Cheap and easy fix.
Here is the item I purchased. I then broke off the plastic as I needed just the bar and bolt. Leaving the plastic on...it would not fit. Amazon.com: Heart Horse Universal Battery Power Distribution Terminal Block M6 with 1/4’’ Single Studs Bus Bar Cars Bus Trucks Voltage 48V Black Car Accessaries : Automotive
If you need a red one also, here is black and red: Amazon.com: Heart Horse Universal Battery Power Distribution Terminal Block M6 with 1/4’’ Single Studs Bus Bar Cars Bus Trucks Voltage 48V Black Car Accessaries : Automotive

NegativePost2.jpg


NegativePost.jpg
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OregonRangerTremor

OregonRangerTremor

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Many of us install accessories that often require connection to the battery. Now a negative connection can be made at any body area where there is a ground....BUT....this is not a 70's pick up with a lot of metal to metal grounded contact and screws everywhere....a lot of plastic and some paint to paint connections where there is no continuity of ground. So we often go to the battery. Negative=black side. On the Positive red side; for those without upfitter switches you will have the same issue. If you have upfitter switches your red connection is made at the pre-wired upfitter switch connection (under the mini fuse box for upfitter switches). WHAT IS THE ISSUE? Not enough room on the factory accessory bolt on the battery for more than 2-3 connections. 2 is about it as you run out of threads to get the nut back on.

I had this issue and I knew I have at least one more accessory to wire up. There are some aftermarket accessory blocks you can purchase, but some just will not fit in the tight areas we are dealing with. SO this is what I did; get a conductive metal bar 2-3" long, drill a hole at each end. One end connects to the factory accessory point and on the other end, put a longer bolt in the other hole, bolt it on with nuts and lock washers. I found a cheap small connector-took it apart and used the bar inside of it as the entire connector would not work (see link). I topped it off by placing a black rubber bolt end cap on top. See photos. FYI, if you do not have upfitter switches, you need to do this to your positive/red terminal too. Additional note: I placed my Battery Tender Cable and the "bar" onto the factory accessory bolt....and then I am placing all my lighting accessory wires to the other end of the bar to the new accessory/longer bolt that I installed. Cheap and easy fix.
Here is the item I purchased. I then broke off the plastic as I needed just the bar and bolt. Leaving the plastic on...it would not fit. Amazon.com: Heart Horse Universal Battery Power Distribution Terminal Block M6 with 1/4’’ Single Studs Bus Bar Cars Bus Trucks Voltage 48V Black Car Accessaries : Automotive
If you need a red one also, here is black and red: Amazon.com: Heart Horse Universal Battery Power Distribution Terminal Block M6 with 1/4’’ Single Studs Bus Bar Cars Bus Trucks Voltage 48V Black Car Accessaries : Automotive

NegativePost2.jpg


NegativePost.jpg
As you can see in the top photo: the lower bolt is from the factory and there is no bolt left. You can only get 2-3 wiring connectors on it and still thread the nut. The upper bolt is the one I added....much longer. It does not hit the hood either. Between these 2 bolts you could probably get 7-8 connections between the two bolts.
 

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Bypasses the smart charger which some believe is a problem.
 

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Use a bus bar.

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OregonRangerTremor

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Bypasses the smart charger which some believe is a problem.
Not sure what you mean....nothing is being bypassed here....it's a direct connection.
 


McLeadslinger

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Electronics thread?!

There are a plethora of bus bars on Amazon. I run a 100 amp in my engine bay and another 100 amp under my steering wheel dash area. I also run another bus bar in my engine bay as a central grounding point. I run a 100amp fuse breaker between it all.

My rack electronics use a negative bus bar as well (though its a little different than the engine bay):

All of my electronics run to my brain box in my former rear seat area. Unless my truck is flooded this gives me 100% waterproof connections and a centralized place to check for fuse or relay problems. The pics are old when I was assembling it, I need to take some updated photos where I added 50mm case fans to the brain box and made all the wiring super pretty. I have 16 relays that can operate 16 aux items.

I have also setup terminal block strips in the engine bay for both the running lights and left/right turn signals. This way in the future if I add anything related to those circuits its simple plug and play and no splicing.

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Big Blue

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Not sure what you mean....nothing is being bypassed here....it's a direct connection.
The manual specifically says not to make any assessory connections including smart chargers directly to the negative terminal of the battery. It bypasses the BMS module and messes with the trucks ability to determine the state of charge of the battery. Better to wire a buss bar to the ground location on the driver side fender by the fuse box.
 
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OregonRangerTremor

OregonRangerTremor

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The manual specifically says not to make any assessory connections including smart chargers directly to the negative terminal of the battery. It bypasses the BMS module and messes with the trucks ability to determine the state of charge of the battery. Better to wire a buss bar to the ground location on the driver side fender by the fuse box.
I will look for that location....thanks.
 

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The manual specifically says not to make any assessory connections including smart chargers directly to the negative terminal of the battery. It bypasses the BMS module and messes with the trucks ability to determine the state of charge of the battery. Better to wire a buss bar to the ground location on the driver side fender by the fuse box.
I have run my accessory grounds to that spot on the fender. It’s tight. Just enough room to get the nut off.
 

Big Blue

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I have run my accessory grounds to that spot on the fender. It’s tight. Just enough room to get the nut off.
That's why a suggested a buss bar.
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