450 RWHP 500 RWTQ

[Superdannyboy]

So what are all the options for a turbo upgrade?

CR Performance Stage 3 or 4
What else?

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[Loweredon33s]

So why a new turbo and not send in yours?

Because they are cheap new, and I’ll keep my original one in case I need to change things around later or whatever. I don’t want to be without a turbo if I was to have to remove the upgrade for some reason. Besides I can’t leave my truck apart for all that time and pay extra shipping etc. This is a simple part swap this way.

 

[Dgc333]

Maybe I'm not understanding something right so help me out here. Aren't all of these engine castings specific to Ecoboost cars (mustang, focus, fiesta) AND have locations for the motor mounts in specific locations which won't bolt up to the Ford Ranger?

The Ranger block was lifted directly from the Focus RS when Ford released the Ranger to North America. The actual motor mounts that go between the block and the chassis are going to be vehicle specific but the locations of the bosses on the block are going to be common.

 

[Loweredon33s]

The Ranger block was lifted directly from the Focus RS when Ford released the Ranger to North America. The actual motor mounts that go between the block and the chassis are going to be vehicle specific but the locations of the bosses on the block are going to be common.

The Ranger block has a unique oil pump configuration, it’s driven by the balancer assembly rather than by chain like the RS and Mustang does. This also complicates deleting the balance.

 

[Superdannyboy]

Because they are cheap new, and I’ll keep my original one in case I need to change things around later or whatever. I don’t want to be without a turbo if I was to have to remove the upgrade for some reason. Besides I can’t leave my truck apart for all that time and pay extra shipping etc. This is a simple part swap this way.

Gotcha, yea that makes sense to me. Did you buy a new turbo and send it in or they have the new turbo and upgrade it?

I'm just wondering if there is any concern with sending a used turbo or if it's no problem. Like in my case I have 59k miles.

 

[Superdannyboy]

The Ranger block was lifted directly from the Focus RS when Ford released the Ranger to North America. The actual motor mounts that go between the block and the chassis are going to be vehicle specific but the locations of the bosses on the block are going to be common.

Oh wow so the actual lugs or bosses on the casting are the same!? Has this been proven? What's your source? Lol

 

[Superdannyboy]

The Ranger block has a unique oil pump configuration, it’s driven by the balancer assembly rather than by chain like the RS and Mustang does. This also complicates deleting the balance.

What is the benefit of deleting the balance? (I'm really interested so go ahead and nerd out I'm listening)

 

[Loweredon33s]

What is the benefit of deleting the balance? (I'm really interested so go ahead and nerd out I'm listening)

The balancer in non Ranger applications is normally deleted to reduce rotating mass and parasitic drag. It is heavy, large and appears to spin around two times faster than the crankshaft. It looks like a small roots blower. I believe deleting it is still possible on our trucks but it will require a few modifications to make it work.

 

[Loweredon33s]

Gotcha, yea that makes sense to me. Did you buy a new turbo and send it in or they have the new turbo and upgrade it?

I'm just wondering if there is any concern with sending a used turbo or if it's no problem. Like in my case I have 59k miles.

The new turbo is probably a smart move since it seems that turbos don't last forever. Not saying yours is worn out but it isn't a spring chicken. I bought a pre made new unit from him, it's less complicated and is easier to stand behind if there are problems.

 

[Superdannyboy]

The balancer in non Ranger applications is normally deleted to reduce rotating mass and parasitic drag. I believe deleting it is still possible on our trucks but it will require a few modifications to make it work.

I bought a pre made new unit from him, it's less complicated and is easier to stand behind if there are problems.

Seems like there are still unanswered questions when you start building a performance engine for the Ranger. Like what exactly to do for a balancer delete and little things that are common on the car versions.

My concern with a turbo upgrade is if I spend the money on an upgraded stock turbo and then build the engine (or buy a plug and play long block) that the "upgraded turbo" will be small and I'd end up getting a completely bigger turbo anyway. Still deciding because maybe I can convince myself to send in my current turbo and upgrade that for now just to feel how it is with all of the bolt ons.

 

[Loweredon33s]

Seems like there are still unanswered questions when you start building a performance engine for the Ranger. Like what exactly to do for a balancer delete and little things that are common on the car versions.

My concern with a turbo upgrade is if I spend the money on an upgraded stock turbo and then build the engine (or buy a plug and play long block) that the "upgraded turbo" will be small and I'd end up getting a completely bigger turbo anyway. Still deciding because maybe I can convince myself to send in my current turbo and upgrade that for now just to feel how it is with all of the bolt ons.

Yeah, I’m not sure what is truly different between all the parts but I have done a pile of research.
I’ll tell you that we made 495/435 to the wheels with race gas on a 15 ecoboost Mustang a few years ago. It needed a lot of turbo to get there, not happening on the stock type turbo in my opinion. That was built bottom end stock head and intake manifold and RS cams. The engine didn’t last much more than a few events before splitting the sleeves or otherwise failing. It badly needed sleeves or at least deck supports. It had rods and pistons and balancer delete with an automatic transmission (6r80). A turbo that big will drive like shit on the street btw.

 

[Superdannyboy]

Yeah, I’m not sure what is truly different between all the parts but I have done a pile of research.
I’ll tell you that we made 495/435 to the wheels. That was built bottom end stock head and intake manifold and RS cams. It badly needed sleeves or at least deck supports.

Interesting
So if it was a built bottom end why would it need sleeves or deck supports? Is that not a closed deck?

 

[Loweredon33s]

Interesting
So if it was a built bottom end why would it need sleeves or deck supports? Is that not a closed deck?

“Built” is a term. It doesn’t define what is necessarily done to it. This car was a stock block record car and his builder didn’t want to use a deck support. If you want a built motor with sleeves or a support you have to specify that. After sleeving comes the side of the block that is prone to cracking. It all depends on the use and power level.

 

[Superdannyboy]

“Built” is a term. It doesn’t define what is necessarily done to it. This car was a stock block record car and his builder didn’t want to use a deck support. If you want a built motor with sleeves or a support you have to specify that. After sleeving comes the side of the block that is prone to cracking. It all depends on the use and power level.

Ok and can you clarify that it was in fact not a closed deck?

What can handle more boost?

Closed deck or sleeved open/semi closed deck? Or even with deck supports.

 

[Loweredon33s]

Ok and can you clarify that it was in fact not a closed deck?

What can handle more boost?

Closed deck or sleeved open/semi closed deck? Or even with deck supports.

It was a STOCK block with rods and pistons. No support, no sleeves. It was a literal time bomb.
Sleeves are stronger than supports in every way. You can bore aftermarket sleeves as well. More boost is not always more power fyi. In fact almost all of the aftermarket tunes for our trucks run near stock boost levels and simply add power with ignition timing. Cylinder pressure is the thing that breaks stuff, not just boost.

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