Search results

That's not even really true either. It's crazy dependent on the station. Down here in Atlanta, where gas is on the lowest end of the pricing, there are stations that are $1-1.50/gal more for premium over regular, but a lot that are only the traditional $0.20-0.40. However, with that, I'll note...

Yup, I was out putting miles on the bike today, but figured it was worth posting for others. BMS reset just "speeds up" the recalibration.

You also don't need to do a BMS reset. Everyone says you do, but you don't. It'll auto-calibrate on its own after I think 8-10 hours unused and off (it might be a few cycles of this), but it doesn't require you to actually do a reset to replace your battery. I did some digging when I had to...

They didn't. I don't have rear brake issues since I put in my own hardware. They never actually fixed my rear squeak/squeal I had. They just kept padslapping and turning the rotors instead of replacing the defective rotors from the factory. I haven't looked at the thicknesses but my issues went...

Yeah, the LT rated tires are going to be a *massive* hit to your mileage. The stock tires on these Rangers are actually quite light for truck tires, anything that is LT rated is going to be *so* much heavier, and Mickeys are some of the heaviest tires you can buy. That unsprung weight is super...

I don't doubt that factory numbers are conservative, but the factory 270/310 are SAE J1349 premium rated numbers, so you don't get more than that on premium, but you get less than that on regular.

Just a note - this isn't correct. The stock 270/310 numbers are based on 91+ octane fuel. If you run regular you'll see ~20% decreased in power and economy numbers. You don't see more than 270/310 out of the stock engine without a tune even running 93 octane.

It's not a fluke. Despite what everyone thinks, even without an "intelligent" 4x4 system, power isn't always a 50/50 split between front/rear, and mine would regularly show a variance between them. I do agree the screen ultimately isn't super useful, but it's not entirely useless either.

The one extra squeeze until shutoff isn't generally a problem, it's the fill until you can almost see gas that's the problem. That tends to fill your EVAP/vapor canister and causes havoc on your emissions systems. That's why most places just suggest first click and leave it. It doesn't hurt your...

I love his videos, he's pretty methodical in his testing, unfortunately it has no real world application to forced induction engines like the ecoboost due to the electronics and built-in tuning that the ECU and modules do with different octane fuels. Ford has noted officially that the rated...

And just think, that's with way cheaper gas too! (Though likely significantly worse mileage as well...)

I do that too, not as often as I used to now with transaction syncing with my local software, but...

Nope! I use MPG tracking as a way to help budgeting for vehicle upgrades/replacements, as a very basic indicator of potential "non broken" issues with a vehicle as mileage is usually the first hit when something goes awry. It also helped me figure out brands with the "best" mileage potential...

Yup. Fuelly is just fine. I started an excel doc back in like 2006 that I've just used ever since for all my vehicles, since before Fuelly was a thing, but it just does the same math for you without you needing to do any manual stuff. Just give it values and it spits out your result. It's a tool...

I cannot state just *how* incorrect this is. I don't know what you understand "hand calculating" as, but it will always be the most accurate calculation you can do assuming you have accurate gas pumps (fill to roughly the same level) and accurate mileage readings (your speedo/odo are correct)...

You should absolutely already have it, having the FX4 package. Unless it's not actually an FX4.

Generally over-sizing is not a huge problem, depending on the setup. I don't have a trigger myself, but if they're standard replaceable fuses, you can just swap in a smaller fuse.

Remember, Amperage = W / V. So 50W/12V = ~4.2A. You should also be able to get from KC in their specs what the amperage is for the lights. 10A should be fine, I would probably not go down to a 5A on those lights.

Honestly, I would fully expect the 2.7L to get better mileage than a 2.3L of the same config (and honestly probably better than a 2.3L 2WD as well). I had a 2015 Mustang with the 2.3L and liked to play some mileage games with it, and have subsequently done that with my 2019 Ranger (4x4) as...

Honestly, I mounted below the 4x4 knob and personally I think it makes more sense there than in the fascia, IMO that's the best spot for it in the center console.