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You won't be able to test with *just* a test light. The truck needs to sense a load on the trailer for it to pick it up. You can buy an actual test device to do it, but you won't be able to with just a test light.

You can just use the digital one instead ?

If you got the Ford Performance tune, it's CARB certified and won't mess with emissions. Other mods might, but the tune/etc won't on its own. The CARB sticker can just be placed under the hood AIUI.

Interesting, for me when I hit AA, it *usually* goes back to the multi-panel view. There's also a maps tab for me that'll take me back to google maps in AA too.

You're welcome! ? That's the only way I get out of AA if I need something in sync. I also use the mic/voice button to activate assistant for stuff, that also works great.

Luckily you can just push the home button on the steering wheel to get out of carplay/AA, and then just tap the AA "tab" in the bottom to go back. It's how I've managed it when I need it. It's painful, but it could be worse.

Yeah, that's still not right. I was in SoCal and now in Atlanta, and I *rarely* need to use max AC settings to get it to cool down. Largely I leave it in auto and set at 70F and it does a great job. The easiest and quickest way to check is just get a probe thermometer (even a meat thermometer...

At $45+/can for R1234yf - you're way better off going to a professional to check it out. You can cause way more damage overcharging it, grenading a compressor for instance. And with as expensive as the refrigerant is, if you're low already, you have a massive leak you need to get looked at or...

You're also not wrong though. But the key is that there's still an upper limit to how cold the AC can get your air even on recirc due to the exchange of heat in the engine bay.

Note my explanation of that. You're trying to cool the outside air (which is the refrigerant) by passing it through the condenser, which needs to fight the ambient air temp, which is why ambient temp - 30F is the target for AC performance in a vehicle. To my knowledge that has been the standard...

No, a fully functioning automotive AC system should cool -30F below exterior ambient temp, anything less is not functioning properly. As a note, you're always trying to "cool" the outside air because you need to draw heat out of the condenser which is why you measure off of ambient and not...

Mine seemed like it never got quite as cold as it should've and when I had a blend door failure and took it in, turns out my evaporator had been leaking for a while. They had to replace that and performed the SSM for the bolt and orings for the blend door. It's been super cold ever since.

A lot of companies realize that you're not always going to be able to manage idling for someone's house effectively. As you noted, a lot of companies/trucks now use APUs (auxiliary power units) that can run the truck when they're parked, but there's still a lot that don't because they're not...

That's kind of my point. Especially if you stick with all season instead of all terrain tires, it's not just the weight that matters, it's easy to push these trucks really high. Wind is a killer, we just sit right at the line of needing boost just to maintain speed that anything that pushes...

Stock tires and not a lot of lift or roof drag makes it pretty easy to get these numbers out of the ranger, especially if you're easy on the go juice. I can still get 23-24 if I'm nice and going the right speed on the highway with 32" wildpeaks.

I feel like everyone in here missed this part: And if it's anything like the "Slow to below 3MPH to shift in/out of 4LO" it means stopped, not actually slow rolling.

Nope, just key off with doors closed, doesn't need to be locked. Page 264 of the 4th edition manual.

I'm willing to bet that the battery reset just didn't work. Leaving the battery alone overnight (8-10 hours) performs calibration/reset of the BMS on its own.

Yes, voltage drops as the battery charges. The higher the internal charge the lower the input voltage will be. Seeing 12.7v on a full battery is normal.

Yeah, down here basically nothing is updated on GasBuddy, and some shell stations are $1 to premium, but some are only $.40 and there's no way to know until you go there. I pretty much use QT exclusively now because they also aren't unreasonable to premium.