Oh it's getting pretty close to driving over there and parking the truck on the general manager's desk...
I spoke with the service manager's boss (don't know her title) about this on Saturday. She's been extremely helpful so far and when I called her this morning just after posting my last...
I found the leak.. Or at least I'm 99% sure of where it is now.
My wife had noticed that the mildew smell was much stronger on the driver's side than the passenger side after a light rain Friday night. With that information I ran painter's tape down the entire rail from the windshield to the...
This is an indication of air in the system.
Mine would do the same thing and when I bled the brakes I got massive bubbles from three of the calipers. Since bleeding the system and adjusting the pushrod length the brakes are muuch better.
It's impressive they shoe-horned a 5.0L into the Ranger and that it drives so well. Sadly it sounds just like the idiots that love to race up and down the main street outside my neighborhood.
Personally I wouldn't bother with the hood. You're much better off applying the sound mat to the floor and roof. To remove the carpet it's not a quick job better to plan at least 1/2 to 3/4 of a day. It will take removal of the seats, door sill trim, kick panels, the B and C column trim panels...
You do know for a couple hundred bocks for some shocks/struts you can fix the bouncy handling... Hell, just replacing the rear shocks makes a world of difference..
Just sayin..
The circled area is almost certainly the point of failure and caused by a stress crack. This could be from heat treatment to tempering. See it happen from time to time in high carbon hardened steel.
The 10R80 does behave much better when it's at operating temp that's for sure. Oh another thing you can do is have the trans fluid level checked. It's well documented that Ford underfilled many of them at the factory by as much as 2 qts. Mine was 1.5qt's low when I had it checked at the 5K mile...
I noticed the shift points were rather harsh when I first flashed to the 5Star 93 Perf file. I requested they send me alternate tuning files with less aggressive shift points but wasn't happy with them and went back to the original 93 perf tune file. Later I reset the transmission shift tables...
If your truck has it, enable tow mode. It'll prevent the transmission from going into too high a gear at lower speeds thus keeping the rev's up just a little bit.
You can order OEM mixed paint in spray cans online as well. Here's a couple of them that are well known. Also a good source for doing things like color matching trim, grills, rims, etc. Paint scratch sells kits for spraying on metal or plastic surfaces. so depending on what you're painting it...
Just received a call from the current dealership that the truck is at.
They were unable to locate any source of leak or replicate the mildew smell. They claim they had it in the tunnel for 2 hours on the heaviest rain setting then parked it outside and nothing. They also stated they performed...
From what Polaris130 stated, there may be enough room to do this but it really depends on how much clearance you have to work with once the radiator fan and shroud is out of the way. Only way to know for sure is to pull the fan and shroud and see.
I'm not familiar with that tune so not sure how aggressively they have the spark curve set in relation to the fuel/boost mapping. Maybe reset it to stock and see if it still does it on the same tank of gas. If not then it could be the spark advance is too aggressive in that rpm/throttle range...
Does it squeak/chirp 2-3 times when first starting up, or is it making a high pitched whistle sound similar to what @dondonbabyraptor posted up but louder?
If it's just the squeak/chirp at startup then they all do it. It's the wastegate actuator arm pivot point squeaking. Some high heat...