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Ah, yeah.... I just got my panels too. prolly get those installed this week.

There is non, it is entirely BCM controlled. No way to currently change the flash amount now either.

actually, there are those holes lower down that have factory gromets in them, I wonder if those would work, I need to test that. The upper hole is just a weird size.

The wiring still goes through the hole in the bed, and just mounts on the molle panel right in front of it. I did order one of the molle panel sets, so I'll have a better write up on the site for install, but it all works the same way, just another hole. I AM supplying some "sleeving" with each...

More inventory and the new items are in stock now. I've got a limited amount of the 8MM battery bank cables since it's a trial run. (Link in signature)

Couple of updates since I don't post here often... I've got adapter plates that fit the standard 1"x1.25" MOLLE PANEL holes available later this week (see pic). This way you have direct access to the plug/socket since most of the panel systems kinda cover the hole. ALSO, I will have pre-made...

From the same company LightForce but via their Australian site and paid the $30 to ship it here.

If it's exposed, PETG or ASA is the best thing to use. Inside or non exposed areas, PLA is fine. PLA will fade/get brittle, etc with UV and extreme temps. Heat will cause it to deform severely as it's printed pretty "cold" in comparison to other plastics.

I really like ASA and use it on all my parts. Like ABS with better UV resistance and less smelly to print.

https://www.lightforce.com/en_us/lightforce-switch-fascia-to-suit-ford-ranger-everest

It's kinda a pain. You have to remove the panel by the drivers knees, and the glove box, then remove the trim pieces on either side of that lower part of the console (those ARE DIFFICULT and be careful) then use a socket to remove two bolts holding the 12V socket plate in place. That's pretty...

Here's my 3D printing setup. I've gone all Prusa from the start because it works out of the box and keeps working until I decide to "fix something". Their filament is also top notch. I use it exclusively for my power harness adapters and anything that I sell. I started with the MK3s and got the...

Really depends on the material and type of printer. AFAIK there are no long term reviewed studies yet on the affects of any of it. Some materials have more "fumes" than others, but a normal extruded plastic printer doesn't have "particals". You might be thinking of SLS type printers which start...

Here's a couple of pics from when I added mine. I did a switch bank as well, but the stock 12V thingys are easily replaceble with the dual USB type ports. The first one I got from amazon died on me though, so I replaced it with a QC3.0 / USB C Power Delivery one. Just BE CAREFUL and pull the...

Switched positive and via the BCM module. It would be best to run a dedicated 12V line to the bed cap in your case. Not too hard really, and if you aren't drawing a lot, you could use one of the many "always on" spare fuse slots via an add-a-fuse (or even wire direct if you feel adventurous).

Those and the "blackout" emblems are HIGH on my next buy list.

YES! I want those... Especially after all the clips I broke removing the non wide ones once.

Yes, if you have both from the factory, they are both ready to use for a trailer without powered brakes.

BRAKE LIGHTS and the actual TRAILER BRAKES output are different things. The 7 pin ADDS the trailer brake output. The 4 pin DOES NOT control trailer brakes.

Yes, the 12V socket adapter is rated "15A" as most are. But the in bed connector and wiring into the OEM connection are 20A. (I did talk to the OP on Facebook about this already). For compressors, I'd recommend a direct battery or relay connection. For all other things, the kit works great...