Custom sub/audio install with no mods!

[VolRanger24]

So a bunch of us have been trying to sort out how to get a sub and upgrade sound in our Rangers given limited capacity under and behind rear seat. I think I found a pretty good solution.

I built a custom sub enclosure for under the passenger side rear seat that allows for a 700W Memphis 6.5” sub, then added a Memphis processor under the driver side rear seat which is the best way to go with using OEM head unit. Behind the rear seat, the center “cavity” is big enough to put a mono amp large enough to run sub (just went with a generic one for now) and the in the channel at the bottom behind rear is enough space for a 4-channel Memphis amp which can put out 75W per channel. I didn’t upgrade stock speakers/tweeters yet and I honestly may not because now that the bass is mainly on sub the speakers/tweeters sound considerably better.

I know some will want a larger sub but trust me, for $150 bucks this Memphis 6.5” hits really REALLY hard. Turned up only half way and volume at 20 the bass is unreal.

Anyway just wanted to share. Feel free to ask questions if your looking to replicate in your truck and I will do my best to answer. I worked closely with a reputable audio shop that did wiring but I built enclosure myself. It’s challenging but I am pretty good carpenter so with patience I was able to get all the angles worked out to maximize the enclosure cu.ft.

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[Roofhopper]

Did you pull signal from front or rear speakers? I’d be concerned about overheating the processor in that location if you keep your seat bottom down. Let us know how it does there or if you decide to move it to back wall.
Also how deep were you able to make sub box? How much area?

 

[VolRanger24]

Did you pull signal from front or rear speakers? I’d be concerned about overheating the processor in that location if you keep your seat bottom down. Let us know how it does there or if you decide to move it to back wall.
Also how deep were you able to make sub box? How much area?

So far I have checked heat after running system for 30 mins to an hour and not heat issues. Both amps self cooling fans seem pretty solid but I will continue to check and update here. The processor ties into the rear of the OEM head unit and isn’t pulling a signal from speakers unless I am mis-understanding what your asking.

As for the sub enclosure, I use 3/4 MDF to build the box and was able to get a little more than 5.5” deep box and that’s with recessing the mounting lip of the sub into the top of the box. The sub enclosure is roughly 0.3 cu.ft maybe just a bit over. The shape is really thought to measure area exactly but figuring on the small side its 0.3.

 

[BaGMaN]

As for the sub enclosure, I use 3/4 MDF to build the box and was able to get a little more than 5.5” deep box and that’s with recessing the mounting lip of the sub into the top of the box. The sub enclosure is roughly 0.3 cu.ft maybe just a bit over. The shape is really thought to measure area exactly but figuring on the small side its 0.3.

two things you could do to increase the internal size are:
1 make the back side out of fiberglass and attach the top to it
2 put synthetic stuffing(like batting or pillow stuffing) inside. it make the enclosure act like a larger one.

 

[FULLSCALE]

Looks like you made good use of the space you have. I have little to no car audio mod experience but looks good to me!

 

[VolRanger24]

Looks like you made good use of the space you have. I have little to no car audio mod experience but looks good to me!

two things you could do to increase the internal size are:
1 make the back side out of fiberglass and attach the top to it
2 put synthetic stuffing(like batting or pillow stuffing) inside. it make the enclosure act like a larger one.

Agreed either of those would def work but audio guy didn’t think stuffing was needed and like I said the bass this thing puts out for how small the cab is (even the “super crew”) is amazing.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hi Folks,

One of my tasks at Ford was to deliver the Ranger Tremor. I hate the boom from the car next to me, but had to deliver this package. We used a blow molded monstrosity across the back of a Ranger Supercab. Sub was 8" mounted on the rear passenger side. We killed the sub in about 15 miunites. What we found out was the speaker needed only 1 cubic foot of space and we had this huge volume of the blow molded area the size of a fuel tank, so we stuffed it with foam. So amp and associated things would rattle the windows of a home a mile from the vehicle... Lesson learned is to understand the specs of your sub. The current Ranger Cavity might be too small or too big...read your specs.

Back Story. We had a pilot of 6 Tremors...The final install was off line in a shed. We had one booming away and we had a rattle in the vehicle. We traced this to a right side rear cab rubber mount where there was a captive washer on the bolt used to secure the cab mount. I had an FCG (trainee} with me and told him to head up the line to where cab deck was and look to see where the cab on the right side was tightened down. He found the operator, who complained that the plant would not fix his air tool as it just started that he could not tighten down the rear cab mound. I went up the line and saw the air line accumulator was full of junk. Into the Plant Managers office and drug him out to the line. He was clearly upset. I demanded a yard campaign to fix all units built. He was furious with me, but the next morning when we went to the operator on the line. He beamed that his air line was fixed with entirely new lines and accumulator. Yard audit and retorting prevented any units being delivered to the field. This was Edison Assembly. We dodged a huge bullet on a boom box package I hated, but delivered on. Goes to show you that you sometimes have to deliver on something with which you do not agree.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[Johnny]

Does anybody have the sub box from Australia?

 

[Randy]

I believe it should have a a little more 'thump', but not too exaggerated that make things rattle. I like my music loud when on the interstate, but I am too OCD to convert these spaces into something else.

 

[Msfitoy]

Link to your sound processor? I have a very similar setup, but without the processor.

Same here...could you post the list of parts and sources? Perhaps a diagram to help us electrical retards?

 

[Zaph]

The processor ties into the rear of the OEM head unit and isn’t pulling a signal from speakers unless I am mis-understanding what your asking.

Older post but I wanted to bump this old thread to ask you about this. Does the OEM head unit have RCA outs on the back to use for external amplification or something? If yes how are they configured? 4 RCA outs for front/rear/left/right and then you have your processor split the sub signal? Can you use the head unit to fade from front to rear speakers without affecting sub level?

Just wondering a little about your config. I'm wondering if the OEM head unit has an RCA out that is adjustable level with the volume control that will allow me to add a sub amp but use the internal amplification for the door speakers. I would run them full range and cross the sub over very low - This makes for a very simple system to deepen bass response.

 

[randytheranger]

any incite on how to remove the fake engine noise from your sub? I still haven't found a tested method to remove it. I pulled my wires from my back door speakers and the augmented sound drives me insane.

 

[Zaph]

any incite on how to remove the fake engine noise from your sub? I still haven't found a tested method to remove it. I pulled my wires from my back door speakers and the augmented sound drives me insane.

What's this augmented sound you're talking about? Is Ford piping a fake turbo spool to the speakers or something, or some extra vroom to the speakers to make it sound less like a 4 cylinder?

Edit: yup. The Ranger engine sound inside the cabin is augmented by the audio system. It is in the F150 and the 2.3 Mustang also. So now, being an audiophile, I'm looking for a way to disable that myself.

Also my question stands from before in this thread and now has the additional addendum: If there is are RCA line level outs on the rear of the unit, are they "clean" outs free of engine sound augmentation?

 

[Zaph]

Apparently we just have to find the audio augmentation mic in the headboard and unplug it.

Here's how it's done in a 2.3 Mustang.
Part 1

Part 2

 

[randytheranger]

Apparently we just have to find the audio augmentation mic in the headboard and unplug it.

Here's how it's done in a 2.3 Mustang.
Part 1

Part 2

if only I could find that mic, theyre easy to find on the aussie version but not on my US XLT ...

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