On board Air setup on your Ranger

[dmeyer302]

I finished up my under hood wiring tonight. Note the fuse and relay mounted to the compressor bracket. No, they're not super convenient for replacing but I don't expect it to be a big issue. The whole bracket assembly pulls out with two screws anyway.

Only thing I have left to do now is to run the wire inside to my Lightforce fascia.

I don't currently have an additional air reservoir. I intend to put one on the driver side frame rail. Still waiting on the right craigslist deal for a tank. New tanks are oddly expensive.

If I could do it all over, I'm not sure I would put it in this spot. I'd be looking more closely at a spot on the frame under the cab. Yes, it fits, but I'm really going to be unhappy with myself when it's time to replace the battery. Both places have their pros and cons.

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[Pathung]

@dmeyer302 Great job stuffing that compressor in there - I have the same ARB compressor, and didn't think that it was possible. I'll only need one airline to the front, to air up the tires. Where did you purchase the brass fitting? Are they just standard sized found at hardware stores? Also, how did you run the actuating wire to the switch in the cab? Are you using a LightForce fascia?

 

[dmeyer302]

Brass fittings at the compressor came from the hardware store. Everything at the compressor is 1/4 NPT...tank outlet, safety pop off valve, pressure switch.

Brass bulkhead fittings at the couplers came from eBay, as well as all the various Festo push-in fittings.

I have the Lightforce fascia, but haven’t yet run the wires inside. I lost the pigtail harness for the switch and I can’t get excited about buying another $40 switch from Australia.

 

[Andy]

Brass fittings at the compressor came from the hardware store. Everything at the compressor is 1/4 NPT...tank outlet, safety pop off valve, pressure switch.

Brass bulkhead fittings at the couplers came from eBay, as well as all the various Festo push-in fittings.

I have the Lightforce fascia, but haven’t yet run the wires inside. I lost the pigtail harness for the switch and I can’t get excited about buying another $40 switch from Australia.

All you should need is the "AOBSW900" series switch plug from Air On Board. The switch comes with one if you cant find it individually. Its the five pin harness that lightforce uses on their switches. Technically a Toyota design.

Link to switch I used: https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...ta-oem-replacement-rear-lights-green-red.html

 

[Pathung]

All you should need is the "AOBSW900" series switch plug from Air On Board. The switch comes with one if you cant find it individually. Its the five pin harness that lightforce uses on their switches. Technically a Toyota design.

Link to switch I used: https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...ta-oem-replacement-rear-lights-green-red.html

Here's a proper compressor switch, also with the pigtail:

https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...t-toyota-oem-replacement-compressor-blue.html

Now, how to route the wires through the bulkhead into/out of the cab? I haven't looked too hard yet, but there should be a way or two.

 

[Andy]

Here's a proper compressor switch, also with the pigtail:

https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...t-toyota-oem-replacement-compressor-blue.html

Now, how to route the wires through the bulkhead into/out of the cab? I haven't looked too hard yet, but there should be a way or two.

Yes, but he’s wanting to use the dual switch from lightforce I assume. Which has two of the harnesses. So any switch will do if he just wants the harness. If he wants the compressor on a single switch then yeah the above would be best without ordering from lightforce. I bet he could ask AOB if he can buy just the harness and they will ship him some.

As for running wires I just went under the drivers seat and ran my wires up and down the frame from that entry point. Easy and I don’t have to worry about damaging factory harnesses.

 

[Pathung]

As for running wires I just went under the drivers seat and ran my wires up and down the frame from that entry point. Easy and I don’t have to worry about damaging factory harnesses.

There's an entry point under the driver's seat? Excellent, as I have other wires/cables to run as well - winch, CB, aux. lights, etc. How did you run these wires, once in the cab, to the center console where the two 12V cigarette lighters are, assuming that's where you've located your switch? In my old truck, I was able to pull up trim pieces along the door threshold, and route the wires along the door opening.

 

[dmeyer302]

Thanks guys, I have the Lightforce fascia primarily for trailer brakes and I was going to use that freebie kangaroo switch for the compressor. Trying to google wiring harnesses is pretty pointless. Didn’t know where to start.

 

[Andy]

There's an entry point under the driver's seat? Excellent, as I have other wires/cables to run as well - winch, CB, aux. lights, etc. How did you run these wires, once in the cab, to the center console where the two 12V cigarette lighters are, assuming that's where you've located your switch? In my old truck, I was able to pull up trim pieces along the door threshold, and route the wires along the door opening.

So the hole under the drivers seat has some mastic/epoxy filling the void to keep the hole sealed but it is easy to remove or drill out if you want to install a grommet like I did. After going into the cabin from this point I routed the wires to drivers sill plate where I routed them up behind the drivers side fuse panel. Behind there is plenty of room to utilize for a fuse panel/relay center which is what I used. I have power to supply the relays coming from a spare fuse point on the factory fuse panel ( quite a few to pick from in different amp ratings).

I have a 0 gauge wire coming from an isolation relay located by the battery that feeds power to a distribution block which goes to lights. Ill use this same relay to isolate the winch when its in. From the distribution block I made a harness with 6 power wires to supply 6 different switches, labeled each wire, and sealed both ends up with heat shrink and covered with a PET braided sleeving. Those drive the relays which are powering the lights ect.

Thanks guys, I have the Lightforce fascia primarily for trailer brakes and I was going to use that freebie kangaroo switch for the compressor. Trying to google wiring harnesses is pretty pointless. Didn’t know where to start.

Yeah I had to spend some time trying to find what lightforce was using as a switch. They are not very open about their products if they email you back at all in the first place.

 

[dmeyer302]

Here's a proper compressor switch, also with the pigtail:

https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...t-toyota-oem-replacement-compressor-blue.html

FYI for the next guy, this was not the correct switch for the Lightforce fascia. I didn't really care, it uses the same pigtail and I just used the freebie switch.

 

[dmeyer302]

I finally finished my in-cab wiring tonight. There is a super easy place to drill your pass-through hole. It's next to a big harness pass-through, above your left foot. I put a little dab of silicone around the wire for vibration resistance and to keep the critters out (not pictured). From there, I basically followed the hood release cable up to near the headlight where my compressor is (that cable is pictured here, it's the black under the red arrow). Very easy process.

I was able to find an otherwise unused (listed as spare in the manual) fuse to put my tap in. This fuse is switched with the key. This is the cabin fuse box, #35. Use the left side of the fuse, which is downstream. This wire is only running the signal side of the circuit to the relay. I would not recommend anyone try to run their full compressor power through the cabin.

All buttoned up and pretty. Very pleased with the outcome.

 

[tbirdz12]

I have a powertank I swap from truck to truck. Portable and it will run anything. I'm use to using it to air up 37's so it should last on something like this a very long time.

I went the Powertank route also....... the OP ARB setup does look Nice!

 

[dmeyer302]

I made some updates to my system this weekend. I think I’m done. Yeah well you never know.

First is a 5 liter Festo tank, mounted above the spare tire. It’s tight but it fits. The spare does just touch the tank, but there’s no pressure on it. It would not fit at all if I had not made the jog in the mounting bracket.

I also added one more coupler in the bed. I want to use this to blow out the crunchies that accumulate in the front bed corners.

 

[RCMUSTANG]

Mounted my Viair in the passenger bad cavity behind the wheel. Had to separate the compressor from the tank since the space is so tight. Mounted the quick connect and remote mounted the air filter for the compressor in the bed. Dual purpose for the train horns and air source.

 

[Glocker]

Great thread. I'm going to be wheeling on a budget so I'm looking at the Smittybilt compressor from the video on the first page of this thread. I think that will serve me just fine for the frequency of wheeling I'm probably going to be able to do.

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