RangerRaptor
Well-Known Member
If this is what it takes to do the Wildtrak roof bars, I’m never going this route...
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Are you installing the Intrusion Beam relocation kit? My understanding is that the crash beams are important for safety. The relocation kit retains the safety functionality. Let us know how easy the install is. I read the instructions a few days ago.I finally got around to having my wheels and tires installed. Instead of trimming the plastic crash blocks, I took them completely out. Only (4) 14mm bolts holding them in place. Amazing how much additional room there was. Under full flex and full lock neither sides rub with the 295/70/17's. I was also able to save the OEM carpet liners by pushing in and pulling tight to the inner block mounting bolt next to the frame. Just used one of the original mounting bolts with an oversized washer to secure it in place. Once I get the fabtech crash bars in, I will more than likely trim up those plastics blocks to fit back behind the bars. Might have to tweak the rear bars and blocks but will see when they come in and I find the time.
I'll chime in...285, no noticeable power change but you will get a hit on MPG...what do you think, how much power do you lost with your bigger tires? Do you realize it much?
Sorry for all the questions, but it’s very helpful to learn from those that have been there already. Does the Icon Stage 1 come with lift blocks for the rear? In your pics it looks like a block is installed under the springs.FINALLY! ... Icon 3’’ lift, Fuel wheels and BF Mud installed ... this was a textbook case of Murphy’s law! lol
no worries happy to help where I can.Sorry for all the questions, but it’s very helpful to learn from those that have been there already. Does the Icon Stage 1 come with lift blocks for the rear? In your pics it looks like a block is installed under the springs.
Did you install the front coil overs yourself? On my Raptor I was able to reach thru the engine bay to attach the nuts on top of the shock. They are very hard to access and manipulate. The Ranger’s engine bay is very cramped, not sure I can reach from the top.
Did you have to drill out the top hole in the steering knuckle (spindle) to install the UCAs? Most of the aftermarket UCAs require a larger hole (tapered at the top) because the bolt on the UCA ball joint is thicker than OEM.
I didn't do Icon kit, but did install 2.5" Radflo coilovers at home (with a lot of help from a more knowledgeable friend) along with Icon UCAs. The Icon UCAs didn't require any modification to be done and we accessed everything from the side with the wheel off. The biggest issue was not letting the CV joint fall open/separate...Sorry for all the questions, but it’s very helpful to learn from those that have been there already. Does the Icon Stage 1 come with lift blocks for the rear? In your pics it looks like a block is installed under the springs.
Did you install the front coil overs yourself? On my Raptor I was able to reach thru the engine bay to attach the nuts on top of the shock. They are very hard to access and manipulate. The Ranger’s engine bay is very cramped, not sure I can reach from the top.
Did you have to drill out the top hole in the steering knuckle (spindle) to install the UCAs? Most of the aftermarket UCAs require a larger hole (tapered at the top) because the bolt on the UCA ball joint is thicker than OEM.
Thanks for the info! I installed my Icon shocks on my Raptor and nothing was straight forward. Drilling, grinding, and tapering were required front and rear. I installed several UCAs and tie-rods as well. I ran an RPG Stage 4+ setup (6 shocks, Fox bump stops, UCAs, Dual-Shock LCAs, tie-rods, RPG steel frame support, and Deaver +3 springs). You’ll appreciate the new spring pack you ordered!I didn't do Icon kit, but did install 2.5" Radflo coilovers at home (with a lot of help from a more knowledgeable friend) along with Icon UCAs. The Icon UCAs didn't require any modification to be done and we accessed everything from the side with the wheel off. The biggest issue was not letting the CV joint fall open/separate...
I’ve never heard of a bed brace until right now, but I can see why they would be a good addition. That looks like a good setup, easily removable when they’re not needed.Thanks for the info! I installed my Icon shocks on my Raptor and nothing was straight forward. Drilling, grinding, and tapering were required front and rear. I installed several UCAs and tie-rods as well. I ran an RPG Stage 4+ setup (6 shocks, Fox bump stops, UCAs, Dual-Shock LCAs, tie-rods, RPG steel frame support, and Deaver +3 springs). You’ll appreciate the new spring pack you ordered!
I’m not sure how hard you’re going to run your Ranger; but the bump stops, frame support, and bed braces are a must for jumping. It’s the only way to truly protect your frame and bed. A trained eye can easily spot a truck’s telltale signs of jump damage (or even donkey kicks). Ford actually stopped showing Raptor commercials that showed the truck hitting jumps.
that’s because you’re probably not a Taco owner!! If you were you’d know all about it! lolI’ve never heard of a bed brace until right now, but I can see why they would be a good addition. That looks like a good setup, easily removable when they’re not needed.
No jumps for me! My off-roading consist mainly of slow technical trails left behind by logging equipment and such.Thanks for the info! I installed my Icon shocks on my Raptor and nothing was straight forward. Drilling, grinding, and tapering were required front and rear. I installed several UCAs and tie-rods as well. I ran an RPG Stage 4+ setup (6 shocks, Fox bump stops, UCAs, Dual-Shock LCAs, tie-rods, RPG steel frame support, and Deaver +3 springs). You’ll appreciate the new spring pack you ordered!
I’m not sure how hard you’re going to run your Ranger; but the bump stops, frame support, and bed braces are a must for jumping. It’s the only way to truly protect your frame and bed. A trained eye can easily spot a truck’s telltale signs of jump damage (or even donkey kicks). Ford actually stopped showing Raptor commercials that showed the truck hitting jumps.
A whole bunch of guys at The Texas Raptor Run a few years ago, started to notice large and uneven gaps on each side of their tailgates. Some tailgates wouldn’t stay closed, randomly popping open. Or some had trouble closing the tailgate. The immediate temporary solution was to run a ratchet strap from one bedside to the other and pull it tight. That’s when braces become popular; there’s many styles and even hidden ones that mount inside the bed walls. I opted for the quick release, fully adjustable TMX braces. We will have less options for a lot of upgrades because there’s no exposed bed bolts on the Ranger.I’ve never heard of a bed brace until right now, but I can see why they would be a good addition. That looks like a good setup, easily removable when they’re not needed.
Hey Rock, I’ve got my crash bars cut and the intrusion beam relocation kit installed. I’m completely stuck now as I cannot get the driver side UCA bolt into the UCA bushings. There’s stuff in the way preventing the bolt from going back far enough so I can push it onto the UCA. I tried for an hour. The bolt just barely fits with the OEM UCA, but the Icon UCA is thicker by 1/2 to 3/4 inches. Did you have a similar problem?As you can see the -12et wheels push the tires right to the edge of the Bushwacker flares. Glad I found this site to help me come up with this stance: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ ... a little bit of luck was also involved to be honest!
Also Wildtrack bars are installed ... I find they look quite good actually! ... and next step is to get my Rhino-Rack platform installed up there.