Anybody using Rotella T6?

t4thfavor

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Mobil1 with whatever filter is equivalent to the FL-400S (I don't even know whats real anymore). I get mine at Meijer (like a Walmart for those not in the Midwest) for 34$ (oil and filter) and they give me a 17$ rebate. I usually buy two sets and use the second jug for the extra quarts to avoid paying $8+ for quart bottles.

SN+ or not at all...
 

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Just a heads up Chevron Delo 400 XSP 5w40 SN+ and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 SN rated for gasoline engines.
 

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Just a heads up Chevron Delo 400 XSP 5w40 SN+ and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 SN rated for gasoline engines.
Might be the right rating but it is the wrong weight. Weight is REALLY important in a modern engine.
 

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I have friends who use it for antique car engines... Not me.
As a fleet mechanic I had access to the best lube experts in the world, they also said no.
That was back when it didn't matter much....
Now it does.

Your new Ranger is designed to use the best modern gasoline engine motor oil on the market and Ford recommends it.

Not to use "Scare tactics" but you may void your warranty by using the diesel grade motor oil. ( Honestly they are probably not gonna check)
I have never really convinced anyone who uses Rotella in gasoline engines to change, so this comment is likely to land on deaf ears.
I will say that I have never seen any vehicle I've owned show wear on any part which ran in oil when using good oil designed for the purpose.
Rotella is a really bad idea for a high compression turbo charged engine. It will cause micro oil droplets on decell in the combustion chamber, then detonation on hard excel. Rotella does not have the correct additives for these engines.
 


t4thfavor

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Rotella is a really bad idea for a high compression turbo charged engine. It will cause micro oil droplets on decell in the combustion chamber, then detonation on hard excel. Rotella does not have the correct additives for these engines.

Soooo are diesel engines not "high compression turbo engines"? I don't think "micro oil droplets" would be a good thing to exist in a diesel engine either since you know, they run on micro oil droplets...

I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with that, and lots to do with missing the proper ratings (probably because they haven't tested for them), and having a different additive package that might cause carbon buildup and issues with catalytic converters on higher temperature gasoline engines.
 

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I will echo what someone else said earlier - why are people so adamant about using non standard oils? These days all sorts of fluids (oil, trans, coolant, etc) are HIGHLY dependent on the correct formulation. Its all chemistry - way over my head, but I understand it is critical to get the correct formulation that has been engineered to work with the particular engine, trans, etc.

Why are people trying to second guess the engineers on stuff like this? Why would you even think about trying to use an oil engineered for diesel engines in a gas turbo engine? I must be missing something because it makes zero sense to me.
 

Fordguy

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Soooo are diesel engines not "high compression turbo engines"? I don't think "micro oil droplets" would be a good thing to exist in a diesel engine either since you know, they run on micro oil droplets...

I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with that, and lots to do with missing the proper ratings (probably because they haven't tested for them), and having a different additive package that might cause carbon buildup and issues with catalytic converters on higher temperature gasoline engines.
Diesel engines have zero detonation issues. New modern VCT controlled timed Turbo engines live on the edge of pre-detonation. They will melt a piston in a heartbeat. It has all to do with it. Read about LSPI, Ford and many other manufactures reformulated there oil to stop this. I think many people underestimate the compression ratio on these new engines, and how lean they run. One little glitch and its meltdown. We replace engines on a regular basis on Focus ST, they melt pistons like a Top Fuel.
 
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Primary goal for automotive engineers today is to meet CAFE ratings. Nothing to do on which oil is better for the engine but to follow the corporate policy in meeting CAFE. That's why we see 0w16 and 0w20 recommendations here in the US yet in other parts of the world the same engines will use a high viscosity oil.
Even Ford and tuners recommends 5w40 for the track use and under extreme conditions.
 

Bubbabiker

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Rotella is a really bad idea for a high compression turbo charged engine. It will cause micro oil droplets on decell in the combustion chamber, then detonation on hard excel. Rotella does not have the correct additives for these engines.
Shell Rotella T6 5w40 no longer carries the API gas engine rating. Only Shell T6 5w30 has a mix fleet rating. Stick with oils with the SN+ and GM Dexo1 Gen2 rating for LSPI mitigation with reduced calcium levels.
 

VAMike

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Primary goal for automotive engineers today is to meet CAFE ratings. Nothing to do on which oil is better for the engine but to follow the corporate policy in meeting CAFE. That's why we see 0w16 and 0w20 recommendations here in the US yet in other parts of the world the same engines will use a high viscosity oil.
Even Ford and tuners recommends 5w40 for the track use and under extreme conditions.
So I guess this makes perfect sense if you take your truck to the track.
 

fusseli

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Funny coincidence, or not, I run Rotella T6 5w40 in my Tbird's 2.3T. This was before the diesel oriented reformulation. Flat tappet SOHC and obsolete style of turbo bearings and seals, commanding a thick and tough oil like the API-SF it was meant for. I will probably go back to an HM 10w40 next.

The Ranger's gonna get the highest quality 5w30, no reason to over think it. Not cold enough here for 0w20 per the OM. Ford has very obviously already considered oil type (DUH!), hence they do not recommend a 5w20 or any higher or lower weight.
 

TexTazManiac

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I know this thread is pretty much complete, but reached out to a friend of mine who works for Shell. He pointed me to the attached thread stating 'it provides a few answers'. Then made me meet him for a beer in repayment.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...la-gas-truck-synthetic-engine-oil-q-a-answers

I run Rotella T6 in all my ATV's, my UTV, (needs the zinc) my 77 280z (needs the zinc), and my tractor. I run Rotella T4 15-40 in the Kawasaki air cooled engine in my zero turn mower.

I know, Texans, right?

I just changed the oil in my Ranger to Pennzoil (at 1500, full fluid change per another thread here) because I'm still under my self imposed 5000 mile break in period and won't start towing until then.Then I will move to Rotella for trucks. At the beginning of this summer, I switched my F150 from Castrol to Rotella for trucks (110K miles on the 5.0 and doesn't use a drop of oil), my Lincoln runs Pennzoil.

The F150 has towed the afore-mentioned toys through the mountains of New Mexico and southern Colorado numerous times. So it has seen a pretty hard life.

Oh, and the beer was great!
 
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Floyd

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I know this thread is pretty much complete, but reached out to a friend of mine who works for Shell. He pointed me to the attached thread stating 'it provides a few answers'. Then made me meet him for a beer in repayment.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...la-gas-truck-synthetic-engine-oil-q-a-answers

I run Rotella T6 in all my ATV's, my UTV, (needs the zinc) my 77 280z (needs the zinc), and my tractor. I run Rotella T4 15-40 in the Kawasaki air cooled engine in my zero turn mower.

I know, Texans, right?

I just changed the oil in my Ranger to Pennzoil (at 1500, full fluid change per another thread here) because I'm still under my self imposed 5000 mile break in period and won't start towing until then.Then I will move to Rotella for trucks. At the beginning of this summer, I switched my F150 from Castrol to Rotella for trucks (110K miles on the 5.0 and doesn't use a drop of oil), my Lincoln runs Pennzoil.

The F150 has towed the afore-mentioned toys through the mountains of New Mexico and southern Colorado numerous times. So it has seen a pretty hard life.

Oh, and the beer was great!
My 1950 Ford Flathead V8 recommended straight weight oil, changed every 3 months...
20W oil for temps above +32°F,
10W oil for temps from +32°F down to -10°F,
and 10W oil plus 10% kerosene for temps below -10°F
On a fresh 1950 Ford 239 Flathead V8 today, that oil regimen would be absurd as long as a modern multi-viscosity oil is available.
Point is that the recommendations in 1950, 1977, or 1995 were based on the best tech at the time.
Engine oil has improved A LOT since the open crankcase days at the beginning of last century.
Sponsored

 
 



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