Need stereo info

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William
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Hello all,
Im looking high and low for the following information.
I want to leave the stock radio deck, the 4 inch sync 3, in the truck but want to add an amp and some sub woofers but I cannot get any information on how to do this.
Specifically the adapter to get line outs and how to disable the factory amp, if there is one, and where and how to install a larger amp without replacing any of the stock wiring.
I would love some help because I have been searching for over a month now for this info. I can install anything on my own and feel I can do it cheaper then the $1600 the stereo installers are wanting to charge me.
If you can help that would be awesome.
Thanks
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dangerranger16

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Hello all,
Im looking high and low for the following information.
I want to leave the stock radio deck, the 4 inch sync 3, in the truck but want to add an amp and some sub woofers but I cannot get any information on how to do this.
Specifically the adapter to get line outs and how to disable the factory amp, if there is one, and where and how to install a larger amp without replacing any of the stock wiring.
I would love some help because I have been searching for over a month now for this info. I can install anything on my own and feel I can do it cheaper then the $1600 the stereo installers are wanting to charge me.
If you can help that would be awesome.
Thanks

Doing a sub install myself too and working through figuring out a few wire locations. In order to do this you need a line output converter. This lets you keep the factory head unit and converts signal from speakers to RCA type connection which you then run to an amp. I went with the AudioControl LC2i and will be tapping into the rear door speakers to get signal to the LOC. There are cheaper alternatives for an LOC but it just depends on your budget and what you’re looking to do. Once you get the LOC wired up, everything else is pretty standard to hook up the amp and subwoofer. Power wire from the battery with a fuse, etc.

Still need to figure out a good remote wire location though. Hopefully I’ll get some time to dig around tonight. Once I finish up the install I’ll update with what I used.
 

dangerranger16

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Hello all,
Im looking high and low for the following information.
I want to leave the stock radio deck, the 4 inch sync 3, in the truck but want to add an amp and some sub woofers but I cannot get any information on how to do this.
Specifically the adapter to get line outs and how to disable the factory amp, if there is one, and where and how to install a larger amp without replacing any of the stock wiring.
I would love some help because I have been searching for over a month now for this info. I can install anything on my own and feel I can do it cheaper then the $1600 the stereo installers are wanting to charge me.
If you can help that would be awesome.
Thanks

So I managed to get everything hooked up over the weekend. To wire a Line Output Converter (LOC) in, I found a good remote wire and speaker wires at one of the connections between the rear door and cabin. If you pull the panels off where the driver and passenger side seatbelts are, there’s a black connector tucked behind in there behind the metal (See picture). I ended up taking a volt meter to check which wires were speaker wires and which was a good remote wire. Luckily it’s all there. I recommend taking a volt meter to the wires just to make sure you have the right ones since colors of wires may vary and do vary from driver to passenger side. The remote wire of course has power when the key is in the on position and off when in the off position. On mine in this picture, the remote wire was the gray with light blue stripe. The speaker wires were the brown wire with green stripe in the corner and the gray wire right next to it (also had a stripe but didn’t get it in the picture and don’t remember). To check the speaker wires just plug a volt meter into the top part of the black connector and play some music, the reading should fluctuate. To check, pause the music and the volt meter should be 0. I did this from my phone and kept playing and pausing to verify. Once you have your wires identified, tap into them with whichever method you’d like (i soldered) and route the extension wires down and back to get into your LOC.

Do the same thing for speaker wires only on the passenger side and route the extended wires to behind the back seat, underneath all the
paneling and carpet etc. Zip tire where appropriate. At that point your line output converter is good to go and if you have a power wire coming in from the battery under the hood, the rest is pretty standard.

8791EA57-F7C4-41EF-AA02-4F05A8717711.jpeg
 

jmw0404

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So I managed to get everything hooked up over the weekend. To wire a Line Output Converter (LOC) in, I found a good remote wire and speaker wires at one of the connections between the rear door and cabin. If you pull the panels off where the driver and passenger side seatbelts are, there’s a black connector tucked behind in there behind the metal (See picture). I ended up taking a volt meter to check which wires were speaker wires and which was a good remote wire. Luckily it’s all there. I recommend taking a volt meter to the wires just to make sure you have the right ones since colors of wires may vary and do vary from driver to passenger side. The remote wire of course has power when the key is in the on position and off when in the off position. On mine in this picture, the remote wire was the gray with light blue stripe. The speaker wires were the brown wire with green stripe in the corner and the gray wire right next to it (also had a stripe but didn’t get it in the picture and don’t remember). To check the speaker wires just plug a volt meter into the top part of the black connector and play some music, the reading should fluctuate. To check, pause the music and the volt meter should be 0. I did this from my phone and kept playing and pausing to verify. Once you have your wires identified, tap into them with whichever method you’d like (i soldered) and route the extension wires down and back to get into your LOC.

Do the same thing for speaker wires only on the passenger side and route the extended wires to behind the back seat, underneath all the
paneling and carpet etc. Zip tire where appropriate. At that point your line output converter is good to go and if you have a power wire coming in from the battery under the hood, the rest is pretty standard.

8791EA57-F7C4-41EF-AA02-4F05A8717711.jpeg
 

ShadowKeeper

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What line output converter did you use? I saw a nice looking Scosche unit. But all the comments said to use a PAC which I didn’t really find any that looked this nice, that wasn’t 3 times the price. Even tho they said the PAC was cheaper. I do have the 11-CK wiring harness that’s made so I don’t cut any wires, so this or something like it would be easy to wire into.

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Robisten8

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You don't even have to go to the point of getting to the B Pillar to access the rear speaker wires. The only portion of trim I removed was the the 10" (give or take an inch) part that you have to remove before removing any other trim on the rear doors. The part a person would step on as they entered the backseat. That exposes the same colored wires needed to wire a line output converter. I used an Audio Control LC2i, which doesn't even require a remote wire. You power the remote on with the amp power wire.
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