DIY Door Ding Protector Project With Payback

[DIYAndy]

Waiting on Running Boards Warehouse for STX600 running boards to be delivered in the next several weeks.

Ho, Ho, Ho - Christmas came early from Running Boards Warehouse - they just arrived today early.

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[DIYAndy]

My SteelCraft Automotive STX600 Running Board additional installation notes, tips and suggestions:

#1. The installation instructions are the same for Ranger Super Crew and Ranger Super Cab.
The 6 pairs of bracket holes (3 pairs per side) are just in different "length" locations
on the under carriage for each vehicle trim. The instructions are "somewhat" well written but it takes
reviewing them many times to install the hardware properly.

#2. Take an inventory of "all" parts (counts) "before" installation. Check with your vendor for missing parts.
The Americans at SteelCraft knows how to count - there were no spares whatsoever! Don't lose any parts!

#3. Inspect the Ranger undercarriage (no vehicle/Ranger lift needed - for most people) for the 6 "pairs" rubber/plastic hole plugs and remove/pry with a screw driver. Also, check all the FMC/Ranger threaded holes pairs for proper bolt fit.Just insert and screw the bolts in the holes for proper fit (10mm-1.5 x 25mm) before attempting this full installation.

#4. There are three types of brackets for different contours of the under carriage.
Make sure you have the right ones for the right/left locations, and the front, center and back for this installation. Please note: The brackets are stamped with DF, DC (has hole in bracket) & DR also PF, PC (has hole in bracket) & PR

#5. Bolts "should" be torqued to "grade" bolt spec. The instruction manual has none? What the $%#@?
The vendor probably did this to save time and not to confuse the DIY type. Professionals always use torque wrenches. I came up with my own torque values for the 8.8 grade bolts eg 6mm x 1 and 10mm x 1.5. If you don't have a torque wrench then just follow the "normal" installation instructions but on occasion, after running your Ranger, check all bolts for tightness.

#6. I did replaced the 6 mm x 1.0 mm x 30 mm bolt "regular nuts and split lock washers" with 6mm x 1.0mm metric hex stainless lock nuts with "nylon" insert so they will never not fall off my truck! (Quantity count 12)

#7. The installation manual does NOT require/reference to any thread locking Loctite - What the $%^#@?
You have a moving vehicle that vibrates a lot but there are no vendor instructions to apply Loctite to the fasteners - truly amazing! The vendor, again, probably did this to save installation time and not to confuse the DIY type. My preference is "blue" Loctite on the bracket bolts. Blue Loctite is easy to remove.
Red Loctite is OK but is NASTY to remove. Read about the two common Loctite types (below) and you make the choice.

Loctite® Red thread locker is the highest strength. This product cures fully in 24 hours and is available in both a liquid and as a semisolid anaerobic. The red products are so powerful that they require HEAT to be disassembled.

Loctite® Blue thread locker is of medium strength. Again this product cures fully in 24 hours and can be dissembled with hand tools.

#8. All bolts should be "fairly" loose on the running boards/brackets until you "level", flush and position the brackets and rails to your liking. When OK, tighten all bolts (without applying Loctite) and make sure the running boards/brackets are all secure and tight. When satisfied with the running boards, I would go back to "each" bolt individually, remove it, and add Loctite to the bolt threads and then tighten/retorque to spec. The last thing you want is the fastener hardware hitting someone at 60-70 MPH or worst yet your new running boards falling off.

#9. I pulled the running boards out, in the slotted brackets, as far as possible away from the Ranger to "gain the most distance" for best ding protection.

#10. Metric sockets needed - 16 mm for 10mm x 1.5 bolts and 10 mm for 6mm x 1mm bolt plates.

#11. This DIY STX600 Running Board installation with 24 bolts and nuts will save you hundreds of dollars if you had it done by someone else. Take your DIY time and save money. My installation time was only ~ 2 hours in leisure time with many liquid refreshments breaks.

#12. These running boards are sharp and "pretty" on my XL SuperCab. The vendor did an excellent job of engineering them for the new 2019 Ford Ranger. (Both cabs) The installation was extremely easy to do with only one person. The cost for these running boards cannot be beat compared to the competition!
After all, these same running boards were also designed for the F series trucks.
Please note: There were no installation problems with this SteelCraft STX600 Ranger Running Board(s) ,made in the USA, whatsoever.

Disclaimer: Not responsible for any mishap(s) from installing these DIY Running Boards!
The manufacturer just design these Running Boards for the 2019 Ford Ranger so engineering/design problems still could/might exist! I have no financial interest in SteelCraft Automotive nor do they pay me for the project plug but they do have quality, inexpensive products for the 2019 Ford Ranger! If you read something that is wrong then "it is no way my fault !!!!"

The installation of the extra wide STX600 Running Boards on the 2019 Ford Ranger is sufficient in stopping "most" door dings but having chrome ornaments - "extended ornament attachments" are even better!

Now comes the hard part in this project - the design and installation of chrome ornaments on the new SteelCraft STX600 running boards for the 2019 Ford Ranger - stay tuned for further project updates.

My installation pdf for supercab

 

[DIYAndy]

Pictures on the way
Notice the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax shine

 

[DIYAndy]

Another bit of humor ...

My new Ford Ranger jingle -

You don't tug on superman's cape
You don't spit into the wind
You don't never, ever park beside my new Ford Ranger!

Coming up ... awesome pictures of stylish, chrome ornament door ding protectors with PAYBACK on my new Ford Ranger running boards. Stay tuned ...

 

[tothemax]

Tnx for sharing the link for the running boards. They look very nice and certainly economical compared to other brands. Am considering some for my supercab as not many options exists for that model.

I like the rock sliders as a protection against high rocks or stumps on a trail but can you pls help me understand how these can protect against door dings in a parking lot? I think it would help out against door dings from sedans and cars lower to the ground; but many vehicles nowadays are SUVs & pick ups with identical or even much higher elevation as the Ranger. Am having a hard time visualizing how running boards or rock sliders will protect against door dings from vehicles with same or higher elevation. Would adding some of the other more traditional options for door ding protection provide better protection? My apologies if this sounds like a stupid question.. just can't visualize it

DIY Door Ding Protector Project With Payback

The other day I saw a careless motorist swing his door open and hit a new F-150 door and dinged it badly and then took off. I waited for the Ford owner to arrive and gave him all the intel information on this $#@%# careless motorist.

Since then, I been looking at different door protectors and none of them seem to look "pretty" on my Ranger. Rock sliders will do the job but it is a bit of overkill for a 4 x 2. Forget about magnetic door bumpers and ugly door trim. Good looking 6" sidesteps/running boards/nerf bars will function perfectly as a step and to prevent door dings but I added a feature that no sidestep has in the USA - a row of stainless steel bolts capped with stainless acorn nuts. So when a careless motorist tries to ding my Ranger - my Ranger will ding him/her back many times over. I am still acquiring all the parts for this project and pictures will come later. BTW "Go Rhino", along with many other vendors, has DIY sidesteps for the Ranger.

Of course, parking my vehicle "out in the wilderness" or "the back forty" in the parking lot will solve many future Ranger ding problems but my solution has payback. If any forum member has a better solution - please do chime in.

 

[DIYAndy]

I like the rock sliders as a protection against high rocks or stumps on a trail but can you pls help me understand how these can protect against door dings in a parking lot? I think it would help out against door dings from sedans and cars lower to the ground; but many vehicles nowadays are SUVs & pick ups with identical or even much higher elevation as the Ranger. Am having a hard time visualizing how running boards or rock sliders will protect against door dings from vehicles with same or higher elevation. Would adding some of the other more traditional options for door ding protection provide better protection? My apologies if this sounds like a stupid question.. just can't visualize it

Good questions but I think I addressed it on #10 (above) quote "What this door ding protector will pickup is mostly cars but not other trucks and higher center of gravity vehicles" I was very clear -that's why I said that

There is NO way that any running board, nerf bar, sidestep, rock slider will "pickup" other trucks of equal height and other higher center of gravity vehicles eg SUVs and other high dollar vehicles. My project directs the protection against "cars" which have a low center of gravity. My logic is that any "high price", high center of gravity vehicles eg SUV, truck and other luxurious vehicles, the owners payed out the nose/a$$ for, would/will also try their best not to ding or scratch other vehicles! (Sorry to say - class warfare anybody?) Also, I would never put ugly side molding/trim on my Ranger! You will see by my chrome ornament addition to these running boards will definitely give other motorist a moment of pause before they decide to park beside my Ranger. It has scarecrow protection

 

[tothemax]

Tnx appreciate the clarification... had missed that part... I understand what you are targeting .. I got my truck only 4 days ago and already have a ding and paint scratch .. not sure what caused it but its high a little lower than the handle ... looks like maybe a door or a rub of bag ... not sure

I just bought the Ford touch up kit to fix it but am interested in options to keep those dings and scratches to a minimum.

Yes I can see now by how far they stick out how the boards can be a deterrent and encourage other drivers to keep distance from your Ranger.. Kill 2 birds w/ one stone

Good questions but I think I addressed it on #10 (above) quote "What this door ding protector will pickup is mostly cars but not other trucks and higher center of gravity vehicles" I was very clear -that's why I said that

There is NO way that any running board, nerf bar, sidestep, rock slider will "pickup" other trucks of equal height and other higher center of gravity vehicles eg SUVs and other high dollar vehicles. My project directs the protection against "cars" which have a low center of gravity. My logic is that any "high price", high center of gravity vehicles eg SUV, truck and other luxurious vehicles, the owners payed out the nose/a$$ for, would/will also try their best not to ding or scratch other vehicles! (Sorry to say - class warfare anybody?) Also, I would never put ugly side molding/trim on my Ranger! You will see by my chrome ornament addition to these running boards will definitely give other motorist a moment of pause before they decide to park beside my Ranger. It has scarecrow protection

 

[DIYAndy]

BTW ... You will be surprised by the height of these running boards on the Ranger. The step height is ~14.5". This will pickup a lot of vehicles including SUVs door swings. By attaching a laser pointer and traveling around parked vehicles, I was very much surprised by the lower door heights (below the Ranger) of most vehicles even the more expensive SUV models.

 

[DIYAndy]

Finally, I designed the brackets for under the STX600 running boards to hold the chrome, acorn nuts, ornament, aluminum perforated tubing in place. I had to pick up raw steel from a local metals supermarket and then had the materials welded by a local welding shop. There are four bolts plates which holds the four ornament brackets under the running boards. The running boards "underneath" has universal channels to easily attach brackets. All bolt plates and brackets were made from A36 3/16" steel and welded so there is no way that these brackets will fail and fall apart from the Ranger.

The following picture has the four bolt plates and four ornament brackets. I am in the process of painting them (primer/base coat) for exterior use.

 

[THLONE]

Those extra long spikes that heavy truckers put on their front wheels should be against the law but nothing will be done until some little prius gets a hole ground in the side and kills a child. If you hit a pedestrian and their lawyer says that your attachments were not functional but designed to injure something then you might be on the evening news and NHTS Board will then regulate. Good luck. By posting this on the internet, we are all witnesses for the injured.

 

[DIYAndy]

Those extra long spikes that heavy truckers put on their front wheels should be against the law but nothing will be done until some little prius gets a hole ground in the side and kills a child. If you hit a pedestrian and their lawyer says that your attachments were not functional but designed to injure something then you might be on the evening news and NHTS Board will then regulate. Good luck. By posting this on the internet, we are all witnesses for the injured.

Guess what? I am ONLY using blunt high chrome motorcycle acorn nuts for the ornaments.
Children and dog owners are safe due to the "blunt" chrome acorn nuts ornaments. (using "different" ornaments types eg castle nuts, spike nuts, pike nuts - NOT SO!!!)

For vehicle/human safety, ALL hardware on the vehicle running boards are secure due to proper fastener torqueing and "blue" Loctite thread locker on all fasteners.

Repeat, there is no law that says I cannot put chrome ornaments on my Ranger. Motorbikers and truckers do it all the time! Posting a DIY project on the Internet causes me to be libel - please. Freedom of speech is written in our Constitution!

Its time to inject some humor for sensitive people ...

The following group of people should IMMEDIATELY leave this topic/thread.
Parents with unsupervised children.
Dog owners that cannot afford a leash for their dog.
Auto body shop owners, repairmen and specialist.
Employees of Ford Motor Company
Insurance agents.
Internet trolls.

The following group of people should continue on with this thread.
Everybody else who like to protect their new 2019 Ford Ranger from careless door dingers.
Also, Nostalgic fans or groupies of the movie(s)/TV series "Mad Max" are very much welcomed.

 

[THLONE]

People who are insecure and cant take a joke should not read the internet and think that words/opinion are an assault on their person. emojis are there for a reason. There is an easier way to revenge door scabs. Just go around keying every big fat car/truck with big fat drivers in the parking lot. LOL

 

[DIYAndy]

Just go around keying every big fat car/truck with big fat drivers in the parking lot.

That's against the law!
BTW … There are dash cams out there, for vehicle surveillance, that could pickup "keyers" - I am debating whether it is worth the cost.

Project Status: Parts will be arriving in the next several weeks to bring final closure to this project - the trolls and comedy channel wanabes are driving me bonkers.

 

[DIYAndy]

General design specs, tips, hints and suggestions for STX600 Running Board, on the Ranger, with chrome ornament perforated tube/bar:

1. The rectangular shape of running boards chosen for this project made the design of the chrome ornament bar/tubing easy. Holding brackets, for the ornament tube can be easily attached under these running boards due to the "universal" channels below the running boards. Special A36 3/16" steel welded brackets, for the ornament bar, was designed for heavy duty use and for safety. There were NO holes drilled in the STX600 Running Boards.
2. All "ornament tube" fasteners eg bolts, washers, locknuts are 5/16-18 and are corrosion resistant.
3. All "ornament" fasteners eg bolts, nuts and washers are stainless steel grade 304 (18-8) for outdoor use - corrosion resistant. Please note: Even the big box stores aka Home Depot/Lowe's don't carry an ample supply of stainless steel bolts and if they did their cost would be extremely high. I obtained all hardware from the Internet. Bolt depot is one inexpensive solution.
4. Motorcycle, high chrome, high crown, acorn nuts are used as ornaments. (Other "types" of fastener nuts can also be easily substituted)
5. Perforated 1" x 1" aluminum square tubing is 60" long with 1" centers for 5/16" hardware - 6061 T6 Aluminum Tubing – painted black to match running boards.
6. All chrome acorn nuts and fasteners, for vehicle safety, are torqued to spec and has "blue" Loctite thread locker applied to them.
7. Duplicate designed bolts plates and special designed and welded steel mounting plates are used to secure the perforated square tubing to the running boards. Outward and inward distance adjustment is by threaded bolts and nuts.
8. Special compression springs were added/used, are two fold, to the ornament tube for vehicle driver/passenger(s) safety and door impact recoil. The compression springs also adds true meaning to the word PAYBACK. When hit by a careless, motorist door dinger, the spring recoil amplifies the damage.
9. One bolt/chrome acorn nut is applied to every 4" of the perforated square tubing for a total quantity of ~ 15 per running side. This quantity could be easily increased to ~ 60 per side (user preference) BUT probably you need to go to the bank for a bank loan for these extras and also acquire large amounts of Loctite thread locker. Please note: Motorcycle chrome, high crown, acorns nuts go between $1.25 to $2.85 a piece!
10. A simple level/distance adjustment is by a quick nut/bolt, spring, fastener adjustment but I am still debating whether using RF remote controlled linear actuators.
11. The amount of stainless, chrome, hardware fasteners consumed in the project, for the ornament bar addition to the running boards was astronomical but the cost and effort was well worth it. Even with the wide running boards and the extra chrome ornament tubing, the total cost is relatively small compared the prices that body shops, now days, charge for ding repair on the new Ford Ranger.

 

[RedlandRanger]

General design specs, tips, hints and suggestions for STX600 Running Board, on the Ranger, with chrome ornament perforated tube/bar:

1. The rectangular shape of running boards chosen for this project made the design of the chrome ornament bar/tubing easy. Holding brackets, for the ornament tube can be easily attached under these running boards due to the "universal" channels below the running boards. Special A36 3/16" steel welded brackets, for the ornament bar, was designed for heavy duty use and for safety. There were NO holes drilled in the STX600 Running Boards.
2. All "ornament tube" fasteners eg bolts, washers, locknuts are 5/16-18 and are corrosion resistant.
3. All "ornament" fasteners eg bolts, nuts and washers are stainless steel grade 304 (18-8) for outdoor use - corrosion resistant. Please note: Even the big box stores aka Home Depot/Lowe's don't carry an ample supply of stainless steel bolts and if they did their cost would be extremely high. I obtained all hardware from the Internet. Bolt depot is one inexpensive solution.
4. Motorcycle, high chrome, high crown, acorn nuts are used as ornaments. (Other "types" of fastener nuts can also be easily substituted)
5. Perforated 1" x 1" aluminum square tubing is 60" long with 1" centers for 5/16" hardware - 6061 T6 Aluminum Tubing – painted black to match running boards.
6. All chrome acorn nuts and fasteners, for vehicle safety, are torqued to spec and has "blue" Loctite thread locker applied to them.
7. Duplicate designed bolts plates and special designed and welded steel mounting plates are used to secure the perforated square tubing to the running boards. Outward and inward distance adjustment is by threaded bolts and nuts.
8. Special compression springs were added/used, are two fold, to the ornament tube for vehicle driver/passenger(s) safety and door impact recoil. The compression springs also adds true meaning to the word PAYBACK. When hit by a careless, motorist door dinger, the spring recoil amplifies the damage.
8. One bolt/chrome acorn nut is applied to every 4" of the perforated square tubing for a total quantity of ~ 15 per running side. This quantity could be easily increased to ~ 60 per side (user preference) BUT probably you need to go to the bank for a bank loan for these extras and also acquire large amounts of Loctite thread locker. Please note: Motorcycle chrome, high crown, acorns nuts go between $1.25 to $2.85 a piece!
9. A simple level/distance adjustment is by a quick nut/bolt, spring, fastener adjustment but I am still debating whether using RF remote controlled linear actuators.
10. The amount of stainless, chrome, hardware fasteners consumed in the project, for the ornament bar addition to the running boards was astronomical but the cost and effort was well worth it. Even with the wide running boards and the extra chrome ornament tubing, the total cost is relative small compared the prices that body shops, now days, charge for ding repair on the new Ford Ranger.

I'm still having trouble envisioning how this is all going to come together. I don't suppose you have any drawings or photos do you? I saw the photos of some brackets you've make - or maybe we just need to wait until you get it complete.

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