Trailer Tow Package Does Contain 4 Wires for Aftermarket Brake Controller Install

DrummerDave

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One additional comment. The wires are relatively short, so you need to really get in there to make the connections.
I did locate the wires. All 4 were in the small bundle that branches off to a white plug. Based on previous posts I expected to find only the purple and white wire in that bundle. I see what you mean about length. Fortunately I bought a very long pigtail, but it still means crawling up on the floor of the cab.
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treimche

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Might depend on when your Ranger was built, but here's a pic of where mine were located. Exactly as described, the 4 trailer brake controller wires were sticking out of the large wire harness that goes through the driver's side firewall, left of the brake pedal. That's the hood release cable in the pic along side the wire harness.

IMG_7582.jpeg
 

DrummerDave

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Might depend on when your Ranger was built, but here's a pic of where mine were located. Exactly as described, the 4 trailer brake controller wires were sticking out of the large wire harness that goes through the driver's side firewall, left of the brake pedal. That's the hood release cable in the pic along side the wire harness.

IMG_7582.jpeg
Thanks for the detailed info @treimche. I found them and am on my way to install a pigtail and brake controller right now. Wish me luck.
 

Noseoil

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I mounted the brake controller inside the tongue box of our teardrop trailer. Set the bias, checked it on a gravel road & that's how it runs. This is a normal 7 pin harness, but uses the trailer's onboard 12v system for the electric brake circuit. Group 27 AGM battery with a solar panel, so we have plenty of juice for braking.
 

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I mounted the brake controller inside the tongue box of our teardrop trailer. Set the bias, checked it on a gravel road & that's how it runs. This is a normal 7 pin harness, but uses the trailer's onboard 12v system for the electric brake circuit. Group 27 AGM battery with a solar panel, so we have plenty of juice for braking.
Pics?
 


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Here's the brake controller ($70.00 Tekosha Primus 90160). It's just set up on a mounting panel, facing forward as it would be in the truck & hard-wired into the trailer's 12 volt system. It works well like this, there have been no issues. If you tow with more than one vehicle, this is a simple way to deal with multiple tow vehicles & connections. Just wire each vehicle the same way & it won't matter which tow you use, it will work.

Usually a brake controller is in the tow vehicle, but it's not written in stone.
Int.jpg
 

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***2/11/2019 Update*** Trailer Tow Package Does Come With 4 Wires for Brake Controller Hookup, But You Do Need to Butt Splice In Harness

img_0384-jpeg.jpg


According to @heathconder:

So I checked the pink/white cable and it has 12v power when the brake is pressed and 0v power when the brake is released. So now we have them all.

The Brake Wiring is:

Yellow/Red = 12v power
Black/Green = to trailer
White = Ground
Violet/White = BOO (brake on/off)
***2/11/2019 Update*** Trailer Tow Package Does Come With 4 Wires for Brake Controller Hookup, But You Do Need to Butt Splice In Harness

img_0384-jpeg.jpg


According to @heathconder:

So I checked the pink/white cable and it has 12v power when the brake is pressed and 0v power when the brake is released. So now we have them all.

The Brake Wiring is:

Yellow/Red = 12v power
Black/Green = to trailer
White = Ground
Violet/White = BOO (brake on/off)
I HAVE A TOW PACKAGE MY WIRING UNDER DASH DON'T HAVE BLACK GREEN I BLUE WIRE AND YELLOW WIRE I HAVE HAS ORANGE
 

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KING RANCH

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***2/11/2019 Update*** Trailer Tow Package Does Come With 4 Wires for Brake Controller Hookup, But You Do Need to Butt Splice In Harness

img_0384-jpeg.jpg


According to @heathconder:

So I checked the pink/white cable and it has 12v power when the brake is pressed and 0v power when the brake is released. So now we have them all.

The Brake Wiring is:

Yellow/Red = 12v power
Black/Green = to trailer
White = Ground
Violet/White = BOO (brake on/off)
I LOOKED AT MY WIRING AND 4 WIRES WITH SRINK TUBING ON THE ENDS I ASSUME THATS THE BRAKE WIRING HOW EVER THEY ARE ONE BLUE WIRE, ONE WHITE , ONE VIOLET/WHITE, ONE YELLOW/ORANGE ARE THESE THE RIGHT WIRES
 
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KING RANCH

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Might depend on when your Ranger was built, but here's a pic of where mine were located. Exactly as described, the 4 trailer brake controller wires were sticking out of the large wire harness that goes through the driver's side firewall, left of the brake pedal. That's the hood release cable in the pic along side the wire harness.

IMG_7582.jpeg
THAT 'S THE SAME WIRES I HAVE DO YOU KNOW WHAT WIRES GO TO THANKS
 

DrSafety

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If you are wiring to a brake controller:

Yellow/orange = 12v power
Blue = to trailer
White = Ground
Violet/White = brake activator on\off
 

Nick Barber

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Thanks, this thread helped me install a trailer brake controller on my Lariat FX4 with tow package. My black/green wire was Blue.
 

J Haggerty (RADAR1)

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Happy to report that my Oct 2019 built XLT with tow package has the four wires (including a blue one) on the left kick panel, behind the blue tape. I'll be hooking up my Tekonsha Prodigy somewhere (same one I use on the other two tow vehicles)
Brake control wiring.jpg
 

Aliby

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So I checked my 7 pin before I hooked up the brake controller.
Got 12v levels on the travel lights and turning signals (no power on the 12v charging pin?).

I then connected in the brake controller harness for my Prodigy P2.
Connecting the Prodigy, without a trailer, I do get the N.C. indicating "no connection"
However, I don't get the travel lights and turning signals any more .. must have shorted and blown as fuse.
Once I find the blown fuse I will let you know. I will need to drive down to the storage lot to check it with that trailer.

Another request... Where are you mounting your Prodigy P2? You want to be able to see it, reach it for manual braking and have it mounted square to the front direction of the truck.
 

Aliby

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No fuses blown. Not sure if it was a computer reset or time or just a poor ground on the tester, but everything seems to be working fine now. Mounted the P2 holder below the fuse box handle using max strength 3M tape. We'll see how long that holds.
20200104_154627.jpg
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