Fawnbuster
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
I installed the floor safe that drops in below the passenger side back seat. Although I will post the instruction sheet it's simple enough to install.
Remove the plastic molded tray that came with your truck, you don't need a trim removal tool just a short flat prybar, slip it under the plastic lip of the tray NOT the nylon push in fastener, this avoids damaging the tray. Lift the rear out first and tilt it towards the front seat and lift out.
After reading your instructions be sure to set your new combination before you install it, it's alot easier to see and do.
There are 4 attachment points. 2 threaded bolts on the bottom of the top each welded on and on the outer side towards the truck door you have 2 holes. Here was my only issue. Whoever assembled my safe messed up and welded threaded steel inserts over each hole on the outside. The bolts that came with the safe are large diameter self tapping bolts that are too big to install in these holes. You'd break the bolt off in the thread trying to force them through, I called the manufacturer but they aren't open on a weekend. I left a detailed message. My simple work around was this- put the safe in the compartment front first then the rear, find a marking instrument like a narrow punch or even a framing nail and insert it through the holes and mark the thin sheet metal behind the safe wall.
Lift the safe back out
Take a 7/64" drill bit predrill 2 holes I marked, put the safe back in front first then lower the rear. Use 2 smaller diameter self tapping screws I had on hand that are just a little shorter and smaller diameter than the ones provided with the safe.
Install and hand tighten the 2 nuts placing them on the 2 welded on bolts under the lid. Then used my cordless driver and installed the 2 self. Taping screws into the side then used a 1/4 inch drive deep well socket and snugged the 2 nuts down on the top. Don't overtighten any of the 4 attachment points or you will snap a bolt.
This safe is heavy and sturdy. Seams are welded and the entire safe is black powder coated. The metal on the safe carcass looks to be about 3/16 of an inch thick, there's a heavy spring that opens the door easily and holds it open, the lid is sturdy but may be one thickness thinner its hard to tell since the coating on it looks thinner than the walls.
I'm delighted that this safe came available as opposed to the small one for the console. Our consoles are so tiny compared to my F150 I traded, space is a premium.
Don't have to order it from the dealer get it factory direct and save more cash although I'm not sure what shipping on a large heavy object would be, it may be a wash.
I was going to pay $250 (dealer cost) then 2 days after purchase I got a $499 discount on my Ziebart (was $999) and my dealer honored it as it came from them. I saved them $200 by suggesting give me the safe free instead and they jumped on it.
Had I had the dealer install this I probably wouldn't have gotten the literature with the manufacturers name and website to see how to save the forum some money.
Consolevault.Com on their website you can search for multiple vehicles that they make safes for.
At Ford the only difference in the under seat or console safe part number is the last digit, it's either an A or B see the picture of my box with the complete ford part number.
Mods I think my post would be a good sticky.
Remove the plastic molded tray that came with your truck, you don't need a trim removal tool just a short flat prybar, slip it under the plastic lip of the tray NOT the nylon push in fastener, this avoids damaging the tray. Lift the rear out first and tilt it towards the front seat and lift out.
After reading your instructions be sure to set your new combination before you install it, it's alot easier to see and do.
There are 4 attachment points. 2 threaded bolts on the bottom of the top each welded on and on the outer side towards the truck door you have 2 holes. Here was my only issue. Whoever assembled my safe messed up and welded threaded steel inserts over each hole on the outside. The bolts that came with the safe are large diameter self tapping bolts that are too big to install in these holes. You'd break the bolt off in the thread trying to force them through, I called the manufacturer but they aren't open on a weekend. I left a detailed message. My simple work around was this- put the safe in the compartment front first then the rear, find a marking instrument like a narrow punch or even a framing nail and insert it through the holes and mark the thin sheet metal behind the safe wall.
Lift the safe back out
Take a 7/64" drill bit predrill 2 holes I marked, put the safe back in front first then lower the rear. Use 2 smaller diameter self tapping screws I had on hand that are just a little shorter and smaller diameter than the ones provided with the safe.
Install and hand tighten the 2 nuts placing them on the 2 welded on bolts under the lid. Then used my cordless driver and installed the 2 self. Taping screws into the side then used a 1/4 inch drive deep well socket and snugged the 2 nuts down on the top. Don't overtighten any of the 4 attachment points or you will snap a bolt.
This safe is heavy and sturdy. Seams are welded and the entire safe is black powder coated. The metal on the safe carcass looks to be about 3/16 of an inch thick, there's a heavy spring that opens the door easily and holds it open, the lid is sturdy but may be one thickness thinner its hard to tell since the coating on it looks thinner than the walls.
I'm delighted that this safe came available as opposed to the small one for the console. Our consoles are so tiny compared to my F150 I traded, space is a premium.
Don't have to order it from the dealer get it factory direct and save more cash although I'm not sure what shipping on a large heavy object would be, it may be a wash.
I was going to pay $250 (dealer cost) then 2 days after purchase I got a $499 discount on my Ziebart (was $999) and my dealer honored it as it came from them. I saved them $200 by suggesting give me the safe free instead and they jumped on it.
Had I had the dealer install this I probably wouldn't have gotten the literature with the manufacturers name and website to see how to save the forum some money.
Consolevault.Com on their website you can search for multiple vehicles that they make safes for.
At Ford the only difference in the under seat or console safe part number is the last digit, it's either an A or B see the picture of my box with the complete ford part number.
Mods I think my post would be a good sticky.
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