What ball mounts are you guys running?

[woody]

I like the aluminum hitch as I live in the rust belt and at work we tow a trailer 3-4 times a week and I got tired of hitting the hitch or using a 42 " monkey wrench to try and break the ball free to switch the balls . this was on a 10,000 lb rotating ball ( 2" , 2 5/16" ) steel hitch. plus I use to have a rv that did not have a very high tongue weight so this hitch took all the guess work out of it . as for the weight rating my ranger can only tow 7500 lbs so I think I am good with the weight rating on this hitch . I like how it is made as no one can remove anything on it when it is locked as all adjustment is done with a custom key . I have had lots of steel hitches and they are all impossible to re and re ball sizes if you have different size trailer balls .

works great for me and I never tow any more then 7500 lbs with it

dave

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[Sandman Ranger]

What would be nice is to have something that can bolt to frame under the bed in which the drop hitch can be stored on. Keeping it from sticking out the back when not in use.

 

[Lunchbox88]

Yeah I would say they advantage of the aluminum hitch isnt at all about weight savings. Its about rust. Living in a place where they salt the roads in winter just seems to destroy stuff. Hitchs/ballmounts are fairly susceptible because they get jostled around a lot which rubs the paint/powder coat off and are exposed to the elements. So I definitely see the advantage for using aluminium.

 

[Lunchbox88]

What would be nice is to have something that can bolt to frame under the bed in which the drop hitch can be stored on. Keeping it from sticking out the back when not in use.

I like this idea. First thing that came to mind was on top of the spare tire if there was enough room to sneak it in there. It would be a pain in the ass to get to though.

 

[Sandman Ranger]

I like this idea. First thing that came to mind was on top of the spare tire if there was enough room to sneak it in there. It would be a pain in the ass to get to though.

I was thinking more like a false receiver bolted to the frame. You would lock the drop and ball in place, up and out of the way.

 

[Strokerduster]

Always wondered why you would add a lock on the ball mount to keep it secure but The ball could be unbolted and moved. I have in the past added a weld tack to the nut to fix this. I found this when getting a new one for my Ranger. 7500 lb rated (same as truck) and ball is welded to mount, not bolted.

 

[Snorebaby]

Always wondered why you would add a lock on the ball mount to keep it secure but The ball could be unbolted and moved. I have in the past added a weld tack to the nut to fix this. I found this when getting a new one for my Ranger. 7500 lb rated (same as truck) and ball is welded to mount, not bolted.

I add a couple of drops of Red lock-tite to the threads if I can't find one welded to the mount. You will need a torch to remove the nut. The Blue or Green lock-tite isn't as strong.

I like to get a ball mount and ball rated greater than the truck capacity. Not that I would intentionally overload it, but the dynamic forces of towing can cause higher forces while towing than the actual towed weight. I am a former Crane Rigger, lifting loads from 1/2 ton to 250 ton and take that experience into consideration when buying the ball/mount. There is always a safety factor figured into the rating (usually a minimum of 1 1/2 times the load capacity). I am buying a 10,000 lb capacity ball and mount just "to be on the safe side".

 

[SRanger]

I got this 8" adjustable Weight Safe combo.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXMBPTG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_L.9iDbS5YXKDR

 

[Lunchbox88]

I ended up getting this beefy one piece forged steel ball mount. Curt Forged 6" drop, with a 1-1/4" shank and 2" ball diameter. The ball mount its rated for 17000lbs towing and 2550 lbs tongue weight so its very much overkill.

 

[Marshal.]

This is what I’m using to tow my flat deck car trailer

 

[DHMag]

What would be nice is to have something that can bolt to frame under the bed in which the drop hitch can be stored on. Keeping it from sticking out the back when not in use.

You could get (or make) a receiver tube and clamp it to the hitch under the truck. I'm actually thinking of doing that to free up the precious underseat storage.

 

[Sandman Ranger]

You could get (or make) a receiver tube and clamp it to the hitch under the truck. I'm actually thinking of doing that to free up the precious underseat storage.

This was my thought. Any pics of location you suggest? Thanks.

 

[DHMag]

This was my thought. Any pics of location you suggest? Thanks.

There is more room on the right side of the hitch to be able to mount it on top. I guess it all depends on what drop size you have. I only have a 2" drop so it would probably be the easiest to mount.

 

[Sandman Ranger]

There is more room on the right side of the hitch to be able to mount it on top. I guess it all depends on what drop size you have. I only have a 2" drop so it would probably be the easiest to mount.

Thanks for sharing. Will look at it some.

 

[Blue Streak]

I have been reading thru this trying to determine what drop to get. There seems to be so many variations. So do some of you have your trucks lifted are all they factory? Also what are you towing? My first tow will be a U-haul 6x12 trailer for a move coming soon, so I stopped by U-haul to measure things.
My receiver from the ground to the inside bottom edge is 201/4", if I use a 2' drop that will put the trailer pretty much level, maybe low with no load. I do not see the need for a 4 or 6" drop, seems to low.

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