Has anyone done a complete 2019 Ranger oil/filter change by themselves yet?

[Johnpenn]

Been changing oil in Fords for about a million total miles, never once replaced the drain plug due to the washer. Fumoto is still sitting on my counter, though now I have the right oil, and the FL400s ready to go. Currently sitting at 4600 miles.

I have had a similar experience. Over the 55 years of changing my own oil on 14 vehicles, close to 100 times, foreign and domestic including Ford, I have had to replace one washer because of damage.

In all that time, I never had a drain plug or filter leak except for once when I had no place to work and paid to have the oil change done. The filter was left loose and I noticed a burning oil smell after I got home and drove it right back.

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[mstealth22]

Done at 1200 miles. I was expecting worse, was pretty easy. Did engine oil, front diff, transfer case, rear diff all at the same time. Rear diff was gross, and lots of gunk on magnet. Glad to have those swapped.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/differentials-and-transfer-case-fluid-change.2575/#post-37506

Took almost exactly 6.2 qts of oil. Filter was easy to get to, no tire turn, no tire removal, just those top, forward, plastic screws (I agree they are going to have to be replaced every couple times). Filter came off by hand pretty easy, the oil drain ramp is slick, other than needing a second drain pan as no regular size will stretch between drain plug and filter drain location.

 

[John Galt]

There is something wrong by paying $14 for the Ford drain plug - My Ford dealership sold me one for $6.60 ? (Ford part number 9L8Z-6730-A)
Even a search on RockAuto.com produces an alternate drain plug(s) for about $2-$3.

yeah I was in the position of already having removed it and my dealership had that price. I did protest the price, but didn't have a computer to look up other prices anyway.

 

[DIYAndy]

Another handy oil drain pan along with the Fumoto oil drain valve with extension adapter (thanks t4thfavor) will speed your Ranger oil change and have a spotless driveway with no spills.
Use your 3/8" nylon hose from the nipple of the Fumoto oil drain valve and insert it into the oil drain pan oil spout. Then use the oil pan catcher for the oil filter.

Oil drain pan - Garage Boss - "The Reacher" - youtube link:

 

[Msfitoy]

Has anyone found a how to video for changing oil on our Ranger?

 

[t4thfavor]

Has anyone found a how to video for changing oil on our Ranger?

I can do one, but it's simple so you shouldn't need one...

<<Topic Change>>
Just got a text today about my "service appointment" from the dealer. So I call.... Lady tells me that the oil and tire rotation is 39.99 for a 5 quart change, and $2.50 for each additional quart. I asked about synthetic, it's $8.00/quart so it's "roughly" 80$ total from the dealership.

I told them I changed the oil at 4800 miles and had roughly 8500 on it now, she said "it's due for oil then" meaning they are ignoring the factory recommended 10K changes, and the computer oil life monitor is a useless feature.

I elected to skip the oil for now (I change my own with Mobil1 for about $40), but I'm going to have them fix my transmission shifting like a wild bull, and pulsing brake problem.

#USABetaTesters

 

[Msfitoy]

I can do one, but it's simple so you shouldn't need one...

<<Topic Change>>
Just got a text today about my "service appointment" from the dealer. So I call.... Lady tells me that the oil and tire rotation is 39.99 for a 5 quart change, and $2.50 for each additional quart. I asked about synthetic, it's $8.00/quart so it's "roughly" 80$ total from the dealership.

I told them I changed the oil at 4800 miles and had roughly 8500 on it now, she said "it's due for oil then" meaning they are ignoring the factory recommended 10K changes, and the computer oil life monitor is a useless feature.

I elected to skip the oil for now (I change my own with Mobil1 for about $40), but I'm going to have them fix my transmission shifting like a wild bull, and pulsing brake problem.

#USABetaTesters

Perhaps I'm not getting far enough under the truck but I can't seen to locate the filter or the drain...I've changed all of my other car's oil regularly and it's pretty simple process I agree. Any chance you can take a picture of the filter location? Thanks much.

 

[t4thfavor]

Here's the Howto you desire.

1. Forget about other cars.
2. Get on Amazon and order an ADP-107 and a 107N fumoto valve.
3. Go under truck and remove the black skid plate that is just behind the sloping front end of the truck it has 4x15MM bolts.
4a. Exit underside of truck and turn steering wheel to full passenger side lock.
4b. In driver's front wheel well, you will see many weird screw plug rivety things, remove the ones towards the back side (maybe 4 or 5 of them)
4c. Peel back the little rubber shroud to reveal the tiny little filter sticking out sideways.
5a. Place catch pan near back of drivers side A-Arm.
5b. Remove filter which was installed with the force of 2 fully matured gorillas, let drain into pan.
6.Using second pan (or waiting for first to stop catching drips) Remove oil plug from pan that you can now see after step 3.
7a. Insert ADP-107 into oil plug threads, and tighten to spec.
7b. Insert 107N valve into ADP-107 and tighten to spec.
8. Replace new filter, close fumoto and install the clippy. Fill with recommended amount of oil.


Subsequent oil changes can now omit Step 3 because the fumoto valve can be redirected to pan with a small piece of hose.


It's worth it.... 80$ was the quoted full synthetic price with what I can only assume is 5qts of oil.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Perhaps I'm not getting far enough under the truck but I can't seen to locate the filter or the drain...I've changed all of my other car's oil regularly and it's pretty simple process I agree. Any chance you can take a picture of the filter location? Thanks much.

I haven't done it yet, but if you have an FX4 you have to remove the skid plate to get to the drain, and the oil filter is on the side of the engine on the (I believe) drivers side behind a rubber flap. It was originally reported that you have to remove the wheel to get to it, but others have reported that you can do it with the wheel on. Due to the 10k oil change interval, it is a good time to rotate the tires anyway, and it apparently makes it a bit easier to get to with the tire removed.

Hope that helps. I still have a while before I need to change mine. Depending on how much work is involved in removing the skid plate, I may end up getting a fumoto valve.

 

[t4thfavor]

I haven't done it yet, but if you have an FX4 you have to remove the skid plate to get to the drain, and the oil filter is on the side of the engine on the (I believe) drivers side behind a rubber flap. It was originally reported that you have to remove the wheel to get to it, but others have reported that you can do it with the wheel on. Due to the 10k oil change interval, it is a good time to rotate the tires anyway, and it apparently makes it a bit easier to get to with the tire removed.

Hope that helps. I still have a while before I need to change mine. Depending on how much work is involved in removing the skid plate, I may end up getting a fumoto valve.

I believe it's been decided that all trims have the skid plate over the oil pan, and not just the FX4.

The skid plate is pretty easy to remove, you take out the two rear bolts completely, then loosen the two in the front. The skid that is removed has slotted front holes.

It's just annoying, and takes a few more minutes to do (all of which are precious to me).

I will never get my oil changed by anyone else as long as I'm able, so it's just making my life easier.

 

[RedlandRanger]

I believe it's been decided that all trims have the skid plate over the oil pan, and not just the FX4.

The skid plate is pretty easy to remove, you take out the two rear bolts completely, then loosen the two in the front. The skid that is removed has slotted front holes.

It's just annoying, and takes a few more minutes to do (all of which are precious to me).

I will never get my oil changed by anyone else as long as I'm able, so it's just making my life easier.

I don't find the skid plate removal to be very limiting, as most new cars have some sort of under car "piece" (I'm not sure what you call them) that has to be removed anyway in order to change the oil. I'd rather remove some bolts and a piece of steel than a piece of fiber board with those "screwlets" (or whatever they are called - I hate those things).

I agree - I will change my oil myself as long as I'm able - it is easy to do and I know it was done right. I've seen and heard too many horror stories from oil change places (even including dealers).

 

[Msfitoy]

Here's the Howto you desire.

1. Forget about other cars.
2. Get on Amazon and order an ADP-107 and a 107N fumoto valve.
3. Go under truck and remove the black skid plate that is just behind the sloping front end of the truck it has 4x15MM bolts.
4a. Exit underside of truck and turn steering wheel to full passenger side lock.
4b. In driver's front wheel well, you will see many weird screw plug rivety things, remove the ones towards the back side (maybe 4 or 5 of them)
4c. Peel back the little rubber shroud to reveal the tiny little filter sticking out sideways.
5a. Place catch pan near back of drivers side A-Arm.
5b. Remove filter which was installed with the force of 2 fully matured gorillas, let drain into pan.
6.Using second pan (or waiting for first to stop catching drips) Remove oil plug from pan that you can now see after step 3.
7a. Insert ADP-107 into oil plug threads, and tighten to spec.
7b. Insert 107N valve into ADP-107 and tighten to spec.
8. Replace new filter, close fumoto and install the clippy. Fill with recommended amount of oil.


Subsequent oil changes can now omit Step 3 because the fumoto valve can be redirected to pan with a small piece of hose.


It's worth it.... 80$ was the quoted full synthetic price with what I can only assume is 5qts of oil.

Hey thanks for the write up

Is this the right part?
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F107N...10064&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr-spons&psc=1

 

[t4thfavor]

Hey thanks for the write up

Is this the right part?
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F107N...10064&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr-spons&psc=1

yes, and you also need one of these because the hole is recessed. If you don't want one, you can skip it and just use the oil pan bolt, but I find it easier to do with the valve.

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-ADP-1...ds=ADP-107&qid=1559311785&s=automotive&sr=1-1

 

[t4thfavor]

I don't find the skid plate removal to be very limiting, as most new cars have some sort of under car "piece" (I'm not sure what you call them) that has to be removed anyway in order to change the oil. I'd rather remove some bolts and a piece of steel than a piece of fiber board with those "screwlets" (or whatever they are called - I hate those things).

I agree - I will change my oil myself as long as I'm able - it is easy to do and I know it was done right. I've seen and heard too many horror stories from oil change places (even including dealers).

The fiber board thingy came off the Focus ST after I found one of those stupid screws in my wife's tire...

 

[DIYAndy]

I believe it's been decided that all trims have the skid plate over the oil pan, and not just the FX4.

No skid plate present - not on my XL 4x2 "plain Jane" 2019 Ford Ranger with no options.

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