Adjustable upper a-arm or ball joint

j0shm1lls

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Sounds like the billet arms are WAY not needed then. :thumbsup:
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Randy2400h

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Sounds like the billet arms are WAY not needed then. :thumbsup:
They offer a lot of flexibility for future upgrades, but not necessary in my case.
 

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Randy2400h

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Quick trip to the $50k Ranger club!:like::LOL:
Granted I received a pretty great deal on the truck from the dealer but by the time you add in: ClearBra, Tint, GFB DV+, Bed Lights, New Tires, BDS lift kit, Front-end alignment, 5-star N-Gauge Tuner, a Diamondback tonneau cover (if it ever comes available), and some kind of replacement replacement upper A-arms TBD. Then yes, I’ll be approaching the $50K club
 
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RodSlinger

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After completing my install of thr BDS 2” leveling kit and my alignment today I’m still left with .48 degrees of positive camber so I’m searching for solution.
See if you have any adjustment left for caster. Depending on the geometry, adding a few degrees of caster may also bring your camber back in check. It can add some weight to the steering and also.
 


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Randy2400h

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See if you have any adjustment left for caster. Depending on the geometry, adding a few degrees of caster may also bring your camber back in check. It can add some weight to the steering and also.
Thanks for suggestion, but I tried to get to the alignment shop to wiggle the Caster adjustment to allow the Camber more adjustment towards neutral, “Nope, can’t do it! We already experimented plenty and we can’t send you out on the road with anymore adjustment to the Caster, if you hit a large bump at Interstate speeds you’d be sorry.”
 
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Randy2400h

Randy2400h

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After talking to some experts at my local shop, they agreed that the tubular a-arms from Icon would fix my caster and camber problems; also that it would have better longevity for my application than the billet arms with the adjustable heim joints. Apparently heim joints are great for pure off-road applications but not for daily drivers that see high miles; they’re strong but require more upkeep and tend to squeak.

So I bit the $800 bullet.
2-3 weeks to have them drop shipped to the shop. Should be a fairly painless install and will be compatible with any future true lift kits I might install in the future.

Here’s the part number. You can order them from a dealer but not the ICON website, yet.

98510DJ 2019-UP RANGER TUBULAR UCA DJ KIT
 

ToothRanger

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They offer a lot of flexibility for future upgrades, but not necessary in my case.
Suspension upgrades are totally foreign to me. Can you help explain how the billets offer more options for future upgrades?
 
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Randy2400h

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Suspension upgrades are totally foreign to me. Can you help explain how the billets offer more options for future upgrades?
Basically if you were to go nuts on the suspension (full off-road) and start to mix and match different brand suspension parts, the adjustability of the billet arms would give considerably more leeway to mess with the geometry of the front suspension and make it work with other new upgrades.

The issue with the Ranger and all trucks with an independent front suspension is that as the suspension extends it drives the wheels forward and pulls the bottom of wheel/tires inward (towards each other). The replacement upper a-arms such as the fixed tubular a-arms from ICON address this issue my moving the upper ball joint back to put the vehicle back into and and lengthening the a-arm to reduce postive camber through the extension of the suspension.

The expert in my shop said he’s not surprised my 2” lift caused me camber issues. He said that they can put the same exact lift on the same model F-250 truck and one will have enough adjustment to correct the camber and the next one will not and will require additional parts.

He said that the aftermarket tubular arms are going to correct my caster issue, will provide plenty of additional caster for lifts up to 5, maybe 6 inches, it will allow better travel, they’re stronger than the stamped steel OEM a-arms, and importantly it will get rid of the high angle that my upper ball joint is being subjected to with the lift. I learned a lot today about a-arms. Looks like I really was going to need these with any lift I chose to put on my truck.

Here’s an exaggerated photo for effect

DC8CED0E-3050-4822-9EB4-E5F8C443D8C1.jpeg
 

RodSlinger

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Thanks for suggestion, but I tried to get to the alignment shop to wiggle the Caster adjustment to allow the Camber more adjustment towards neutral, “Nope, can’t do it! We already experimented plenty and we can’t send you out on the road with anymore adjustment to the Caster, if you hit a large bump at Interstate speeds you’d be sorry.”

I would agree if they had to take caster out but adding a few degrees would actually help a little. They should be able to crank out the rearward adjustment bolt on the LCA to add two or three degrees of caster and it should bring your camber back in check.

I'm running a littlelover 7 degrees caster on my truck and it made a nice improvement in feel and handling.
 

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Here is the alignment read out from my truck with the 2.5” TC level. They didn’t say a thing about needing more adjustment and it fell within the RC alignment specs. I’d like to know if I’m at risk for any issues... wonder if RC’s specs are acceptable?

D2D5D4C2-B110-4804-BD29-881C4021D96D.jpeg
 
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Here is the alignment read out from my truck with the 2.5” TC level. They didn’t say a thing about needing more adjustment and it fell within the RC alignment specs. I’d like to know if I’m at risk for any issues... wonder if RC’s specs are acceptable?

D2D5D4C2-B110-4804-BD29-881C4021D96D.jpeg
you still have positive camber!! Not sure why these lift companies say this is in spec. This will cause shitty handling when turning.
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