Randy2400h
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Full write-up forthcoming. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being a major PITA, this was at least a 9. On my way to the tire shop then alignment shop tomorrow.
Some quick notes:
1) You’ll really need these tools in particular: a heavy duty strut compressor, an air hammer (yes really) and air impact wrench, PB Blaster lubricant, anti-seize lubricant for the threads on strut compressor, blue threadlocker, 35mm axle nut socket, 15mm 18mm 19mm 21mm impact sockets, two jack stands and a floor jack (preferably two) and a 1/2” drive torque wrench.
2)Compressing the strut is difficult with your standard McPherson strut compressor kit but it is doable, it is far more difficult to reassemble the strut to be perfectly aligned top to bottom so it can be remounted (I’ll have some good tips on this). I marked a spot on the top of the top strut “hat” with a paint marker that lined up with lower strut mount bolt when looking straight down from the top of the strut (when it is removed for disassembly obviously). That said, I would make the necessary
alignment marks and take it to a 4x4 shop that can use their wall mounted strut compressor; just make sure you carefully explain the importance of the alignment marks and don’t leave the shop without it being exact.
3)To get the lower a-arm to extend low enough to allow the strut to be removed, you need to partially pull out the axle, WITHOUT pulling apart the inner CV joint (the joint that is inside the rubber boot nearest the front differential). You have use the air hammer to punch the axle through the hub, but you don’t want to punch it out of the hub entirely, you can accomplish this by threading the axle nut back on a few turns (enough threads to start pulling the axle back through during reassembly).
4) Remove the ABS sensor out of the knuckle and away from the action. Disconnect the brackets for the brake line not only on the knuckle but also on the inner fender to give yourself more leaway; you’ll need it to get the strut in/out.
Some quick notes:
1) You’ll really need these tools in particular: a heavy duty strut compressor, an air hammer (yes really) and air impact wrench, PB Blaster lubricant, anti-seize lubricant for the threads on strut compressor, blue threadlocker, 35mm axle nut socket, 15mm 18mm 19mm 21mm impact sockets, two jack stands and a floor jack (preferably two) and a 1/2” drive torque wrench.
2)Compressing the strut is difficult with your standard McPherson strut compressor kit but it is doable, it is far more difficult to reassemble the strut to be perfectly aligned top to bottom so it can be remounted (I’ll have some good tips on this). I marked a spot on the top of the top strut “hat” with a paint marker that lined up with lower strut mount bolt when looking straight down from the top of the strut (when it is removed for disassembly obviously). That said, I would make the necessary
alignment marks and take it to a 4x4 shop that can use their wall mounted strut compressor; just make sure you carefully explain the importance of the alignment marks and don’t leave the shop without it being exact.
3)To get the lower a-arm to extend low enough to allow the strut to be removed, you need to partially pull out the axle, WITHOUT pulling apart the inner CV joint (the joint that is inside the rubber boot nearest the front differential). You have use the air hammer to punch the axle through the hub, but you don’t want to punch it out of the hub entirely, you can accomplish this by threading the axle nut back on a few turns (enough threads to start pulling the axle back through during reassembly).
4) Remove the ABS sensor out of the knuckle and away from the action. Disconnect the brackets for the brake line not only on the knuckle but also on the inner fender to give yourself more leaway; you’ll need it to get the strut in/out.
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