Lightforce Switch Fascia and Wiring Thru Firewall

Glocker

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I would be comfortable running all of that off of the same fuse. 10A is probably good. Go with whatever recommendation is given for the USB charger. The two backlights will be practically no draw in comparison to the charger.
Thanks!
There was no paperwork for the charger. It seems nicely constructed but the lack of paperwork was a bummer. I'll check to see if it's printed directly on it. If not I'll run a 15amp micro 3 blade for it.
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Nice write up,and love the facia for sure!
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RangerRaptor

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@RangerRaptor Please forgive me, I know enough about electrical to burn something down. I have ordered a micro 2 blade and a micro 3 blade fuse tap that will be here on Monday. I'm working on installing a LightForce Switch Fascia and I'm going to be running a dual USB port through one of my LightForce switch locations and then two LightForce switches on the other two switch locations. Can I run the power for the switch back-lighting to both of the LightForce switches off the same micro 2 blade fuse tap and then run my USB port through the micro 3 blade fuse tap? What amp fuses would you recommend I use in the fuse taps?

THANK YOU!! I am thankful for any help you can give me!
Hey John, you can match my fuse connections for your truck. You need one fuse for ignition only power for the switch backlight, one fuse for constant power for your auxiliary lights (this sends power from the switch to your relay when you push the switch), and one fuse for the dual USB port (my USB is on fuse 26, with a 10 amp fuse).
 

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Hey John, you can match my fuse connections for your truck. You need one fuse for ignition only power for the switch backlight, one fuse for constant power for your auxiliary lights (this sends power from the switch to your relay when you push the switch), and one fuse for the dual USB port (my USB is on fuse 26, with a 10 amp fuse).
So I hooked up the lights with the harnesses they came with and they power on with the switches that came on those harnesses. My plan is to take the switches off the harnesses and plug up the lightforce switches. There are fuses on the wiring harnesses.
 

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Damn you guys, I just time traveled. Started reading the posts, thought, "do you really need relays...." Went to google and now it is an hour and a half in the future. lol
 


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RangerRaptor

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So I hooked up the lights with the harnesses they came with and they power on with the switches that came on those harnesses. My plan is to take the switches off the harnesses and plug up the lightforce switches. There are fuses on the wiring harnesses.
Do the wiring harnesses have relays? If they don’t, it’s likely the LEDs don’t pull many amps. Relays are critical for most LEDs bigger than a light pod.

Your harnesses only have 3 wires for the switch because it’s not the same as the Lightforce switch. You could probably use the harness for the 3 wires, but you’d need to connect a 4th wire from the switch to the fuse block for backlighting (this is the fuse that only has power when the truck is running).

Also, a switch harness is typically wired to the battery because it needs more current to power the off-road lights. If you mount the relay/harness in the engine bay so it connects to the battery, you’ll need to run all 3 switch wires back through the firewall.to the switch. HOWEVER, I think this could work if you’re willing to test a theory. I’ll draw a diagram for you and post it here. The initial test can be done without going through the firewall at all - we’ll go around the firewall by opening the hood and the driver’s door.
 
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RangerRaptor

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So I hooked up the lights with the harnesses they came with and they power on with the switches that came on those harnesses. My plan is to take the switches off the harnesses and plug up the lightforce switches. There are fuses on the wiring harnesses.
The idea of using the fuse block inside the cab isn’t really about the fuses, it just adds the benefit of having a fuse. The main purpose is to gain access to constant power and ignition only power without tapping into the truck’s wiring harnesses.
 

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So each harness has relays and connects directly to the battery.

One harness has 3 wires to it's switch, ground, power for the light, and backlight to the switch, and ground.

The other harnesses has 4 wires. Same setup as the other harness but the 4th wire powers a DRL in the lightbar that I'll be disregarding.
 
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RangerRaptor

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So each harness has relays and connects directly to the battery.

One harness has 3 wires to it's switch, ground, power for the light, and backlight to the switch, and ground.

The other harnesses has 4 wires. Same setup as the other harness but the 4th wire powers a DRL in the lightbar that I'll be disregarding.
This is great news! The relay means you aren’t needing full current to the switch. I’d hook up the entire harness in the engine bay. Then ONLY run the switch wire from your harness into the cab. Ignore the other two wires. Then follow my notes in the picture to connect all 4 of the switch’s wires.

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Glocker

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This is great news! The relay means you aren’t needing full current to the switch. I’d hook up the entire harness in the engine bay. Then ONLY run the switch wire from your harness into the cab. Ignore the other two wires. Then follow my notes in the picture to connect all 4 of the switch’s wires.

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That's awesome! THANK YOU!!!
 
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RangerRaptor

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That's awesome! THANK YOU!!!
Some of these three prong switches are different. The copper prong definitely goes to ground. The other two silver prongs are power and accessory. If my notes don’t work when you flip the switch, try another one of the wires from the harness.
 
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RangerRaptor

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I also installed a dual USB port to power my iPad, which I use for Off-road Navigation, GoPro camera control, OBD diagnostics, and gauge cluster for boost, fuel consumption, engine temps, RPMs, torque, etc. I already used all my Lightforce switch openings, so I had to place it elsewhere. It’s accessible, but hidden enough to be discrete.

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Glocker

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I also installed a dual USB port to power my iPad, which I use for Off-road Navigation, GoPro camera control, OBD diagnostics, and gauge cluster for boost, fuel consumption, engine temps, RPMs, torque, etc. I already used all my Lightforce switch openings, so I had to place it elsewhere. It’s accessible, but hidden enough to be discrete.

6E2E8A7B-ED32-4679-8952-C73499F77312.jpeg
F7140736-E6D6-415F-BB17-0C10F4976DAD.jpeg
8843D6F6-8E8B-4A90-9E36-0CAEE74522A4.jpeg
Pretty trick!
 
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RangerRaptor

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