Best Diagnostic Software for our Rangers?

[harringtondav]

Several weeks ago I purchased a Diacom marine engine diagnostic kit to wring out a problem with my 4.3L direct injected boat engine. It wasn't cheap, but the $700 price paid off. The kit included a program CD (waste of time...it was outdated and fresh versions are free to download) and an engine specific CAN-USB cable/module that turns a laptop into a powerful diagnostic tool. All real time EFI inputs and device responses can be recorded and graphed.
I'm a DIY control freak, and would like to get ahead of a dealer (maybe smarter) when trouble shows up. I've showed my price pain limit. Is there a product with similar capability for our Rangers?
What does the clan here recommend?
Thanks, Dave

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[RangerBill]

Several weeks ago I purchased a Diacom marine engine diagnostic kit to wring out a problem with my 4.3L direct injected boat engine. It wasn't cheap, but the $700 price paid off. The kit included a program CD (waste of time...it was outdated and fresh versions are free to download) and an engine specific CAN-USB cable/module that turns a laptop into a powerful diagnostic tool. All real time EFI inputs and device responses can be recorded and graphed.
I'm a DIY control freak, and would like to get ahead of a dealer (maybe smarter) when trouble shows up. I've showed my price pain limit. Is there a product with similar capability for our Rangers?
What does the clan here recommend?
Thanks, Dave

So what was the problem with your boat engine?

 

[harringtondav]

So what was the problem with your boat engine?

Low power and rough engine operation. A few misfires were picked up but they went inactive. Injector pulse width was 1/4 of what is needed for wide open throttle. WOT rpm was 4400 vs 5200 previously, and getting there took 1/2 minute vs previous 10 seconds....generally a shaky dog.
My cranking battery was four years old and had flat lined 3-4 times due to a stereo left on. The boat would start, but when I graphed the battery & ignition voltage it dropped very low. Apparently the ECM notes this and set a low power fuel map. New battery, smooth operation, but low power.
After that good 'ol manual digging around diagnostics brought the boat alive. #1 & #2 spark plugs had heavily varnished insulators. #3 and #4 were a bit iffy but usable, #5 & #6 were pristine. New plugs and then joy.
...guessing you're sorry you asked.

 

[RangerBill]

Low power and rough engine operation. A few misfires were picked up but they went inactive. Injector pulse width was 1/4 of what is needed for wide open throttle. WOT rpm was 4400 vs 5200 previously, and getting there took 1/2 minute vs previous 10 seconds....generally a shaky dog.
My cranking battery was four years old and had flat lined 3-4 times due to a stereo left on. The boat would start, but when I graphed the battery & ignition voltage it dropped very low. Apparently the ECM notes this and set a low power fuel map. New battery, smooth operation, but low power.
After that good 'ol manual digging around diagnostics brought the boat alive. #1 & #2 spark plugs had heavily varnished insulators. #3 and #4 were a bit iffy but usable, #5 & #6 were pristine. New plugs and then joy.
...guessing you're sorry you asked.

Not sorry, but you never updated your other post on this, and I was wondering what the resolution was.

 

[harringtondav]

Not sorry, but you never updated your other post on this, and I was wondering what the resolution was.

Thanks! I'm flattered that you remembered me.

 

[RangerBill]

Several weeks ago I purchased a Diacom marine engine diagnostic kit to wring out a problem with my 4.3L direct injected boat engine. It wasn't cheap, but the $700 price paid off. The kit included a program CD (waste of time...it was outdated and fresh versions are free to download) and an engine specific CAN-USB cable/module that turns a laptop into a powerful diagnostic tool. All real time EFI inputs and device responses can be recorded and graphed.
I'm a DIY control freak, and would like to get ahead of a dealer (maybe smarter) when trouble shows up. I've showed my price pain limit. Is there a product with similar capability for our Rangers?
What does the clan here recommend?
Thanks, Dave

I use Forscan on a Windows laptop with a USB adaptor cable. It is a free download.

 

[airline tech]

It really depends on how often you will use it and will you be disappointed when you run into a situation where the scan tool you have cannot perform the function or task you need.

The BEST for the Ranger is going to be - FDRS - which is Ford specific diagnostic software, where for T-Shoot and Testing has all you will need.

Forscan - SHINES for ease of changing As-Built data to your preference, and also is great for pulling codes, however lacks in the Live Data PID displays and only has a few guided test procedures.

I have a 4 scan tools with 1 being - Forscan, plus Autel, Top-Don and Snap-On, My favorites are the Top-Don (Phoenix Smart) and Snap-On (Triton D-10) for the most included test procedures.
You have to understand that any (Non-Ford) software is going to have a few test procedures that are missing from fords FDRS, that is until Ford and supplier of said software have a agreement that they are authorized to include it, this will vary by Make - Model and Year and with frequent updates they slowly are released to the platform.

 

[got3fords]

Several weeks ago I purchased a Diacom marine engine diagnostic kit to wring out a problem with my 4.3L direct injected boat engine. It wasn't cheap, but the $700 price paid off. The kit included a program CD (waste of time...it was outdated and fresh versions are free to download) and an engine specific CAN-USB cable/module that turns a laptop into a powerful diagnostic tool. All real time EFI inputs and device responses can be recorded and graphed.
I'm a DIY control freak, and would like to get ahead of a dealer (maybe smarter) when trouble shows up. I've showed my price pain limit. Is there a product with similar capability for our Rangers?
What does the clan here recommend?
Thanks, Dave

So you spent $700 to find out you needed new spark plugs? What am I missing here? No offense.

 

[harringtondav]

So you spent $700 to find out you needed new spark plugs? What am I missing here? No offense.

When I bought the boat I knew I was in over my head with the EFI system. I'd planned on getting the software when trouble showed up. I did. Dealer is $150/hr and has a three week wait in the summer.
Software told me the injector fuel delivery was too low. ...don't know why new plugs fixed this.

 

[RangerBill]

When I bought the boat I knew I was in over my head with the EFI system. I'd planned on getting the software when trouble showed up. I did. Dealer is $150/hr and has a three week wait in the summer.
Software told me the injector fuel delivery was too low. ...don't know why new plugs fixed this.

Possibly because the ECM was limiting power due to misfiring and limiting fuel supply to do so. You stated you had a beeping alarm. Did you ever figure out what that was indicating?

 

[TJC]

It really depends on how often you will use it and will you be disappointed when you run into a situation where the scan tool you have cannot perform the function or task you need.

The BEST for the Ranger is going to be - FDRS - which is Ford specific diagnostic software, where for T-Shoot and Testing has all you will need.

Forscan - SHINES for ease of changing As-Built data to your preference, and also is great for pulling codes, however lacks in the Live Data PID displays and only has a few guided test procedures.

I have a 4 scan tools with 1 being - Forscan, plus Autel, Top-Don and Snap-On, My favorites are the Top-Don (Phoenix Smart) and Snap-On (Triton D-10) for the most included test procedures.
You have to understand that any (Non-Ford) software is going to have a few test procedures that are missing from fords FDRS, that is until Ford and supplier of said software have a agreement that they are authorized to include it, this will vary by Make - Model and Year and with frequent updates they slowly are released to the platform.

My xTools D8 has much more bidirectional tests for my 2005 Ranger than it does for the 2020. Which speaks to your comment about Ford slowly authorizing to include them. Dynamic (Real time) tracking is great on both trucks.

 

[airline tech]

This post reminds me of why I bought my first scan tool back in 2001 and had a 1995 Pontiac, so OBD-1.

Had a misfire symptom, changed plugs, wires etc - could not get the check engine (light) grounding test to pick up any flashing codes, replaced the plugs and the misfire remained.
I suspected a bad injector, so decided to have a shop scan it to confirm, well come to find out - I CRACKED a plug installing it - at that time it cost $60 to get it scanned and the Auto-Zones etc were not doing this yet.
Frustrated at having to spend $60 to find out that I caused it, I decided I needed my own scan tool so my first investments in a scan tool was $200 - Actron and at the time was top of their line, I actually still have it as a backup as there are still a few (OBD-1) systems in my circle of family & friends where it is much easier to plug and play the scanner without extra adapters to power the tool.

So I hate more than anything to have to pay for labor on things where I have the capability to do it myself - this goes for automotive as well as home repairs.
So I fully understand spending a big chunk of money on a tool, for the mere satisfaction of (DIY) I can recoup some of the money spent (if I charge) friends and family for diagnostic services.

I now do everything to my vehicles with a few exceptions - Tires and Balancing and Alignments.
I resided my house myself but drew the line on a new roof, that was contracted out.
The residing project took 6-months, a little at at time per side, the roof was completed in a day and insurance covered most of that (Hail Damage)
My latest project (in-work) is a kitchen remodel with new cabinets after being quoted $15,000 just to replace the cabinets, I have decided to build them myself, with 3/4 Ply, not the cheaply constructed cabinets you get from the big box stores, so with a few more tools (Dado-Blade) and (Kreg) Cabinet Jigs this will happen, as the OE Cabinets will get new doors and add a base cabinet along a empty wall, my only (decision) point is what to do with the countertops, that may get contracted - depending on what is the final type of tops I use.

So yes, I am a full DIY guy, and very seldom contract anything out even if it means investing money in tooling that will be rarely used.

 

[TJC]

I'd much rather do it myself, and have - auto's and home. I KNOW it is done to my satisfaction. No corners skipped. 20 year old detached garage... builder didn't Tyvek down to the door headers. I noticed the aluminum sagging a bit. Pulled it off and found rot. In the middle of replacing the header/siding and waterproofing it correctly, doing it right... No more rot from water leakage.

It is difficult to trust builders anymore unless you watch them do the work.

 

[harringtondav]

Possibly because the ECM was limiting power due to misfiring and limiting fuel supply to do so. You stated you had a beeping alarm. Did you ever figure out what that was indicating?

After I installed the new cranking battery I cleared all codes. Previously the MIL lamp output was on (I don't have the actual lamp) and short term alarm was set to on. After the battery these went away as well as any misfire counts.
I'm not declaring victory yet. I took a short test run with normal performance, but I'm not convinced I've got to the root. Just returned to the boat and I'll record a new set of data/graphs and compare them to the earlier graphs.
A boating forum expert is helping me with this. He recommended clearing the misfire counter and adaptation. My version of the software won't do this, but I have Volvo Penta's tech phone #. Apparently this data is sticky for several engine cycles and could influence ECM decisions.

 

[Stevo]

what is this crap about boats???

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