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What did you do to your Ranger today?

TJC

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Finally got around to installing the Bilstein 4600's on the Front after I noted my RF OE Leaking
I've the the Eibachs, but keep putting the fronts off. Did you go in from the top or bottom. The bottom looks to be easier to me, But what do I know, i've never had the front end of my Ranger apart.
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airline tech

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I've the the Eibachs, but keep putting the fronts off. Did you go in from the top or bottom. The bottom looks to be easier to me, But what do I know, i've never had them the front end of my Ranger apart.
With the various posts about pulling the CV Joint apart, I decided to take extra steps to avoid this from happening.
So:
Pulled the Caliper & Rotor and Axle Nut
Disconnected the Upper Ball Joint & Tie Rod End and Sway Bar End Link
This allowed me to deflect the LCA down enough to get the shock assembly out from the upper tower once all was disconnected and the CV Shaft was pushed out of the hub.

Notes:
I am glad that I decided to procure every possible need (Tooling) as all disconnects were a fight to beak loose.
The Passenger side was the easiest and less of a fight.

A. Both Upper Ball Joints - required more than just a whack with a hammer and needed to use my Ball Joint Tool - to get tension on it then a light tap with the hammer and it popped loose.
So I am glad I added this to my tool collection.

B. Drivers side Tie Rod End - also needed the same tool, Passenger Side (One Whack) and it popped loose.
I was able to get the CV Shaft out of the Hub but the Tie Rod end was blocking me from getting the deflection needed to get the shock out of the upper tower, so extra time was spent getting the Tie Rod end to break free to get the deflection needed for the LCA to drop down enough
I only needed about 2 more inches, and it just was not going to happen unless I spent the extra effort on getting the Tie Rod disconnected.
Also noted that the (Ground Points) by the upper shock tower bolts somewhat limits access but it can be worked around without disconnecting them (Drivers Side)

C. Both Sway Bar End Links - Required me to hold the link with a Allen Key and then use a wrench to get the nut off as it just wanted to spin.
I did note (paid attention) with the sway bar end link connected how much of a throw the end link has (relating to various threads about steering wheel) not returning to center in a sharp turn.
My assumption of the end links being a possible source proved correct and noted that if the ball end of the link was galled (in that scenario) it would hang up wheel turned and body roll acting on the end link.

D. I also lubed my caliper sliders and noted driver's side was pretty dry as compared to the passenger side when going back together with it, I may pull the rear's and lube them as preventing maintenance.
Note: I am at 19,900 miles, still 8mm on the front pads and no abnormal wear, so they were not sticking (YET)

I index marked the shock assembly before I compressed the spring to make it easier to get the proper alignment when going back together.

So it took longer than expected to do it, but both sides complete in 4.5 Hours (on the floor and one side at a time -jacked)
Sourced all new hardware (especially the Axle Nuts)

I did not disconnect the control arms and only focused on the knuckle, so the alignment stayed in tact, still drives straight- but with my 20K rotate and balance due, I am going to get it realigned anyway, that was part of the reason for me waiting to install the shocks, the passenger side was not fully blown it was just seeping fluid down the shock, yes it would be a warranty item but I wanted to upgrade anyway to match my rears, which were swapped out @ 6K miles

The Ball Joint Tool was a Ebay Find (used) - Ford Rotunda PN: 204-592
The Spring Compressor is AutoZone (Loan A Tool) with option to keep (I think I will keep it)
This fits over the coils perfectly and had no problems compressing the spring enough to get it apart.
When I did this professionally we had a wall mounted compressor (much safer) than this but it worked and just ensured I was taking it down slow and easy and my safety pins stayed in place.

Tooling.jpg
 
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TJC

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Thanks for the details.

I'll be waiting till fall to tackle the job. Already starting to heat up and humidity is on the rise. That ball joint tool looks simple enough, but a quick search on eBay revealed best price of ~$140 shipped. Should I wait for a better price or is this in the ballpark?

Thanks again for the information.
 

98RangerDave

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What a project, completed the full by myself, which in hindsight wasn’t the brightest idea. Suspension stuff is heavy! Ended up going with the extended travel coilovers from ICON and adjusted them to provide a 3” lift. Now the truck sits level and drives like a dream. If anyone is on the fence about coilovers, I say do it!

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Bob902

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What a project, completed the full by myself, which in hindsight wasn’t the brightest idea. Suspension stuff is heavy! Ended up going with the extended travel coilovers from ICON and adjusted them to provide a 3” lift. Now the truck sits level and drives like a dream. If anyone is on the fence about coilovers, I say do it!

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IMG_6775.jpeg
IMG_6777.jpeg
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Looks good!
 

Bob902

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currently in the middle of full interior sound deadening.
I did my doors several years ago. Be curious how much more this helps. I know the roof could use some since it sounds like a tin can.
 

Doc

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What a project, completed the full by myself, which in hindsight wasn’t the brightest idea. Suspension stuff is heavy! Ended up going with the extended travel coilovers from ICON and adjusted them to provide a 3” lift. Now the truck sits level and drives like a dream. If anyone is on the fence about coilovers, I say do it!

IMG_6776.jpeg
IMG_6775.jpeg
IMG_6777.jpeg
IMG_6778.jpeg
IMG_6781.jpeg
Beautiful !
 

airline tech

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Thanks for the details.

I'll be waiting till fall to tackle the job. Already starting to heat up and humidity is on the rise. That ball joint tool looks simple enough, but a quick search on eBay revealed best price of ~$140 shipped. Should I wait for a better price or is this in the ballpark?

Thanks again for the information.
I paid $170 for it, but it also included the small adapter piece on the end - as most were missing this, I have a few Ball-Joint tools in my collection and have done enough Front End work in my career that it best to always have the proper tooling.
 

TJC

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I paid $170 for it, but it also included the small adapter piece on the end - as most were missing this, I have a few Ball-Joint tools in my collection and have done enough Front End work in my career that it best to always have the proper tooling.
The right tool makes the job far far easier, and not having it sometimes makes the job impossible.
 

Colo_Ranger

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I did my doors several years ago. Be curious how much more this helps. I know the roof could use some since it sounds like a tin can.
I did my doors prior to this, but I don’t think I did a good job. I’m going to redo them while I’ve got the truck apart (redo = add more).

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I meant to take a picture before putting the carpet back down but I forgot. There’s a ton down. Took a package to do 3/4 of the truck. A new box of sound deadener just arrived so I’ll keep working when the kiddo goes to bed tonight. I thought this would take more time than it has, honestly. Started yesterday at 2 and ran out of material at 830.
 

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Getting ready for trip to Boothbay, Maine. Loaded Truck's bed with camping gear. Installed new Weize battery (OE was 4 years old). Pumped tires to 40 front and 50 psi rear, and did a 6 quart sucky tranny fluid swap along with bottle of Lubeguard
First trip this year !!!!
 

5thranger

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Getting ready for trip to Boothbay, Maine. Loaded Truck's bed with camping gear. Installed new Weize battery (OE was 4 years old). Pumped tires to 40 front and 50 psi rear, and did a 6 quart sucky tranny fluid swap along with bottle of Lubeguard
First trip this year !!!!
Sounds like you are ready to rock-n-roll.
 

Grumpaw

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Sounds like you are ready to rock-n-roll.
Yeah....normally by this time of year this would be our second trip with the camper. But bathroom leak called for a total re-model and wife needed a new bridge fitted, so this is #1.
 

airline tech

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Sounds like you are ready to rock-n-roll.
I just have to post this:
I am listening to a nearby neighbor who's having a party with a Live Band.
And they were playing the song:
Your Mama Don't Dance and Your Daddy Don't Rock N Roll, and the page opened to this post at the same time they sang the line Rock N Roll.

Twilight Zone Worthy
But the upside is they are now playing - Can't You See - one of my favs to sing or should I admit attempt to sing along with.
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