What are you guys towing?

[Grumpaw]

Picked up a Springdale mini 1750RD a few weeks ago. have used it a few weekends and it's been a blast. Tows great, but damn was it horrific until i added the rearview camera. Even the clip on mirrors are insufficient.

If your going to be towing/using the camper a lot, look at the ClearView Mirrors from ClearView. Only mirrors out there made speciffically for the Ranger.
Expensive, yes, but you get what you pay for.
Just use the search function for ClearView mirrors and many of the posts from our use will come up.

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[Peragrin]

If your going to be towing/using the camper a lot, look at the ClearView Mirrors from ClearView. Only mirrors out there made speciffically for the Ranger.
Expensive, yes, but you get what you pay for.
Just use the search function for ClearView mirrors and many of the posts from our use will come up.

not only that but you have a sport. I bet you don't have blind spot either so you are talking base model mirrors, with fold.

 

[maxbottomtime]

If your going to be towing/using the camper a lot, look at the ClearView Mirrors from ClearView. Only mirrors out there made speciffically for the Ranger.
Expensive, yes, but you get what you pay for.
Just use the search function for ClearView mirrors and many of the posts from our use will come up.

Yeah i've looked at them. I can't justify them yet, as they are PRICEY. I wish there were molded addons, but realize the market is limited. I can see decently behind the trailer in each lane next to me, and with the camera eliminates 95% of the issue. If they were a couple hundred less I'd probably bite the bullet but we'll see.

not only that but you have a sport. I bet you don't have blind spot either so you are talking base model

Sport is an appearance package, it's an XLT with blindspot monitors, all the safety tech except the active cruise.

 

[ProtonDecay]

I have done the Alaska drive all the way up to the Arctic twice. PM me if you want any tips or questions.

could you post or send me a link to the thermometer you use for the tires and brake rotors. I’ve been looking for something like that

This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just try to hit the same spot on the disc each time and from wheel to wheel. I just measured yesterday after taking the new rubber out for a spin so I can check/tighten the lug nuts. Noticed the trailer discs temps were about half of the truck, so increased the brake controller one notch. Can't remember if I've replaced the batteries since buying two years back, but they must last at least a year or so.

I also have this (plus two addl sensors): https://www.etrailer.com/TPMS-Sensor/JR-Products/372FX4K.html

This let's me use separate setups for on vs off road, and kind of serves as a lagging indicator of brake heat (i.e. by the time the tire pressures start to go up on a long downhill grade the brakes are probably nice and toasty), which serves as my signal to slow down or stop and let things cool off a bit. Plus, if temps on the truck go up differently than on the trailer it is another indicator of whether the truck or the trailer is doing more than its fair share. The only drawback to these is they only measure about two or three times per minute - this let's the sealed sensors last for 5 years before being replaced, but means I use the Ranger TPMS when airing back up after going off-road (I use a manifold and air up the truck tires all at the same time), and the hand gauge when airing up the trailer.

For Alaska questions - got any off-road trails you recommend? We're especially interested in easy-to-medium trails that will let us pull the trailer into epic spots, but hard trails that have a decent campsite at the beginning or where it starts to get tough are also OK. We've been to most of the touristy spots before, so this time we're more focused on things that are a bit harder to get to (e.g. Wrangell St. Elias, Roosevelt Lake).

 

[RayO]

First camp adventure of the year. No issues accept the gas mileage, I have to keep track only about 400km pulling. Over 600km when the truck is empty.

 

[GoldenAtlas]

This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just try to hit the same spot on the disc each time and from wheel to wheel. I just measured yesterday after taking the new rubber out for a spin so I can check/tighten the lug nuts. Noticed the trailer discs temps were about half of the truck, so increased the brake controller one notch. Can't remember if I've replaced the batteries since buying two years back, but they must last at least a year or so.

I also have this (plus two addl sensors): https://www.etrailer.com/TPMS-Sensor/JR-Products/372FX4K.html

This let's me use separate setups for on vs off road, and kind of serves as a lagging indicator of brake heat (i.e. by the time the tire pressures start to go up on a long downhill grade the brakes are probably nice and toasty), which serves as my signal to slow down or stop and let things cool off a bit. Plus, if temps on the truck go up differently than on the trailer it is another indicator of whether the truck or the trailer is doing more than its fair share. The only drawback to these is they only measure about two or three times per minute - this let's the sealed sensors last for 5 years before being replaced, but means I use the Ranger TPMS when airing back up after going off-road (I use a manifold and air up the truck tires all at the same time), and the hand gauge when airing up the trailer.

For Alaska questions - got any off-road trails you recommend? We're especially interested in easy-to-medium trails that will let us pull the trailer into epic spots, but hard trails that have a decent campsite at the beginning or where it starts to get tough are also OK. We've been to most of the touristy spots before, so this time we're more focused on things that are a bit harder to get to (e.g. Wrangell St. Elias, Roosevelt Lake).

what kind of temps in the tires and brakes are where you start to worry?


The truth is Alaska isn’t really an off-road paradise the way like Utah is. There are so few roads and the ones that do exist are mostly used regularly so they are graded regularly. People up there talk about the Denali and Dalton highway like they are rough scrambles but they are just dirt roads where your biggest worry is a flat tire from the gravel.
The road to Wrangell St Elias is the same. It’s a flat gravel road that if you’ve got decent tires you’ll have no problems.
The only place I saw you really might want a 4x4 is around Homer and Kenai. There’s some trails down to beaches and some backcountry access to Old Believer communities that have some rough roads. Careful of the beach though. Real easy to get stuck and the tide rises fast. (RIP to my OG 1995 Toyota pickup).
I never tried the Knik glacier trail because it’s just wet glacial silt for the same reason. Craigie creek road is a good one you might enjoy outside Hatcher pass.
For epic views of the trailer you can’t do better than the Brooks range off the Dalton. Tombstone north of Dawson. McCarthy and Wrangell St Elias. The Denali highway as well. I’m assuming you’ve been to other places like Valdez, Seward, Homer etc since you’ve been to the touristy areas.
There’s some great driving around Prince of Wales Island but requires a huge commitment of two ferries to reach.
The best road in terms of off-road I found was the salmon glacier road outside of Hyder. But that in colorado would be like a rough forest service road. Highly recommend taking the Cassiar highway in one direction on the way up or back

 

[Grumpaw]

First camp adventure of the year. No issues accept the gas mileage, I have to keep track only about 400km pulling. Over 600km when the truck is empty.

Congratulations on your new rig....hopefully lots more trips to come.
Do not let the gas mileage get to you.....it is what it is, and there's really nothing you can do to bring it up. Just keeping correct tire pressure and keeping under 65 mph is about the best you can do.
Sweet spot seems to be around 60 or so mph or whatever that equates to in kph.

 

[YYCRanger]

Picked up a Springdale mini 1750RD a few weeks ago. have used it a few weekends and it's been a blast. Tows great, but damn was it horrific until i added the rearview camera. Even the clip on mirrors are insufficient.

I also use a rear view camera (Haloview) that works great. Agree that the view directly behind and each adjacent lane is excellent for spatial awareness and passing. We camp 2-3 hours away almost every second weekend. After towing, I remove the monitor and the truck still looks good.

 

[maxbottomtime]

First camp adventure of the year. No issues accept the gas mileage, I have to keep track only about 400km pulling. Over 600km when the truck is empty.

What model is that? Curious what the footprint is and how it compares to the one I just picked up.

 

[Grumpaw]

What model is that? Curious what the footprint is and how it compares to the one I just picked up.

By the slideout and the position of the hot water heater, looks like a Jayco Jay Flight SLX7 183RB

 

[ProtonDecay]

what kind of temps in the tires and brakes are where you start to worry?


The truth is Alaska isn’t really an off-road paradise the way like Utah is. There are so few roads and the ones that do exist are mostly used regularly so they are graded regularly. People up there talk about the Denali and Dalton highway like they are rough scrambles but they are just dirt roads where your biggest worry is a flat tire from the gravel.
The road to Wrangell St Elias is the same. It’s a flat gravel road that if you’ve got decent tires you’ll have no problems.
The only place I saw you really might want a 4x4 is around Homer and Kenai. There’s some trails down to beaches and some backcountry access to Old Believer communities that have some rough roads. Careful of the beach though. Real easy to get stuck and the tide rises fast. (RIP to my OG 1995 Toyota pickup).
I never tried the Knik glacier trail because it’s just wet glacial silt for the same reason. Craigie creek road is a good one you might enjoy outside Hatcher pass.
For epic views of the trailer you can’t do better than the Brooks range off the Dalton. Tombstone north of Dawson. McCarthy and Wrangell St Elias. The Denali highway as well. I’m assuming you’ve been to other places like Valdez, Seward, Homer etc since you’ve been to the touristy areas.
There’s some great driving around Prince of Wales Island but requires a huge commitment of two ferries to reach.
The best road in terms of off-road I found was the salmon glacier road outside of Hyder. But that in colorado would be like a rough forest service road. Highly recommend taking the Cassiar highway in one direction on the way up or back

We'll let the TPMS show the temp at the valve get to 125F before becoming concerned - that translates roughly into 400F on the rotors - temps between rotors will vary quite a bit just from driving habit, exposure to sun, etc, but we've only gotten brake fade once and when I got the rig stopped and took the temps they were all over 800F - yiikes! That was something like 170F at the valve. Official boiling points aside - 400F every once in awhile seems to be OK, and we just alter our speed and gearing (yay for Sport Mode) once they get a bit high.

Thanks for the tips re trails - Stewart/Hyder are first up on our targeted list! And McCarthy/Kennicot are also a must go! Here's a pic of our spot on the beach last night just north of Fort Bragg.

 

[RayO]

What model is that? Curious what the footprint is and how it compares to the one I just picked up.

Grumpaw is correct it's the Jay Flight SLX 7 183RB

 

[GoldenAtlas]

Anybody have some knowledge to share with me on greasing a wheel bearing on a teardrop trailer. This was my first attempt and it was kind of a messy disaster but I think I got it done. The grease came out the like it would supposed although it was hard to tell what was good grease and bad grease. I also wasn’t sure how much to lean in the wheel cavity.

this was before basically how it looked from the factory.

this is how it looked when we were done

I’m probably being overly paranoid because I’m the type of DIY guy who usually breaks the thing worse than before but any opinions welcome.

 

[GoldenAtlas]

We'll let the TPMS show the temp at the valve get to 125F before becoming concerned - that translates roughly into 400F on the rotors - temps between rotors will vary quite a bit just from driving habit, exposure to sun, etc, but we've only gotten brake fade once and when I got the rig stopped and took the temps they were all over 800F - yiikes! That was something like 170F at the valve. Official boiling points aside - 400F every once in awhile seems to be OK, and we just alter our speed and gearing (yay for Sport Mode) once they get a bit high.

Thanks for the tips re trails - Stewart/Hyder are first up on our targeted list! And McCarthy/Kennicot are also a must go! Here's a pic of our spot on the beach last night just north of Fort Bragg.

Thanks for the tips. I actually managed to warp my rotors on an old 4Runner and I wasn’t even towing years ago just from severe mountain driving and dumb braking so I have always been paranoid since.

nice views!

 

[Grumpaw]

Anybody have some knowledge to share with me on greasing a wheel bearing on a teardrop trailer. This was my first attempt and it was kind of a messy disaster but I think I got it done. The grease came out the like it would supposed although it was hard to tell what was good grease and bad grease. I also wasn’t sure how much to lean in the wheel cavity.

this was before basically how it looked from the factory.

this is how it looked when we were done

I’m probably being overly paranoid because I’m the type of DIY guy who usually breaks the thing worse than before but any opinions welcome.

If it has the quick lube type with the zerk the proper way to lube them is to raise the tire/wheel off the ground so you can just rotate the tire/wheel as you pump grease into the fitting. This allows the grease to enter the bearings as you rotate. If you don't do this, and just grease while the tire/wheel is on the ground, the grease basically just fills up the outer area of the quick lube cup.

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