ReadyLift Intrusion Beams

[SteweyOne]

No I had to cut the plastic crash plate things on the rear ones. The outer most bolt hits them. I've already done enough to void my warranty so I wasn't worried about cutting some of the plastic away to save me from having to take apart the entire wheelwell. Here's some pics of the damage...

Not my proudest hack job, but it got the job done.

Thanks for getting back to me. I was actually able to remove that plastic crash plate (4 bolts) after removing 4 plastic push pins in the fender liner so I could pull it back just enough to gain access to it. Then I was able cut through the metal with ease and slide the crash bar out once I removed the 2 crash bar bolts.

Sponsored

 

[FocoRanger]

Thanks for getting back to me. I was actually able to remove that plastic crash plate (4 bolts) after removing 4 plastic push pins in the fender liner so I could pull it back just enough to gain access to it. Then I was able cut through the metal with ease and slide the crash bar out once I removed the 2 crash bar bolts.

I figured you could probably get it out by removing those pins and pulling it back, I just didn't wanna test the rigidity of the liner and end up ripping that or creasing it. Glad you got it out the right way tho haha

 

[SteweyOne]

I figured you could probably get it out by removing those pins and pulling it back, I just didn't wanna test the rigidity of the liner and end up ripping that or creasing it. Glad you got it out the right way tho haha

Totally fair! I ended up creasing my fender liners a bit now that I went back and looked at them.
Did you have any issues fitting the new intrusion beams in? My driver side front intrusion beams looks like it wasn't made correctly. The drilled holes are ever so slightly misaligned so I can only get in 1 bolt in and torqued down. The outer most bolt won't fall in place correctly and it looks like I might have to drill through the intrusion beam to make the bolt hole ever so slightly bigger.

 

[FocoRanger]

Totally fair! I ended up creasing my fender liners a bit now that I went back and looked at them.
Did you have any issues fitting the new intrusion beams in? My driver side front intrusion beams looks like it wasn't made correctly. The drilled holes are ever so slightly misaligned so I can only get in 1 bolt in and torqued down. The outer most bolt won't fall in place correctly and it looks like I might have to drill through the intrusion beam to make the bolt hole ever so slightly bigger.

I didn't have any issue getting the new ones in other than needing a little tapping cause there was some gunk in the tube and it was a tight fit. The bolts fell right in.

 

[Lost19Ranger]

Hey y'all, new guy to the forum here. Here's the current build: 2019 Ranger XLT, Method 309 NVs (17x8.5, 4.75"BS), 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3, Fox 2.0 coilovers and rear matching shocks.
So I put the wheels and tires on, thought I did enough research to avoid rubbing, but lone behold I rub at full crank turning right. I could never find anything on the ReadyLift High Clearance Intrusion Beams offered from Stage 3 Motorsports so I figure I'll post it up here.
I don't have before pictures, but rub was pretty bad on front beams at full crank. Not as bad on rear. OEM Intrusion beam removal is pretty straight forward, but definitely not "easy". I used a cut off wheel for as much as I could and had to Sawzall the rest which sucked. Went through 3 blades for the front two beams.
The ReadyLift beams are pretty beefy, and slide right in (one took a little tapping from rubber mallet). I only got the front two done cause the back are gonna be a little more tricky to Sawzall. But there is so much more clearance. Here's the pics.

im curious to what offset you went with on your wheels?As I’ll be going with a 2.5 level with the 5100s and I’ve seen we can fit 285x70x17s with out the intrusion beams and I see you went with 265x70x17s a no still needed them

 

[FocoRanger]

im curious to what offset you went with on your wheels?As I’ll be going with a 2.5 level with the 5100s and I’ve seen we can fit 285x70x17s with out the intrusion beams and I see you went with 265x70x17s a no still needed them

I have zero offset with 4.75" of backspacing. If you have less backspacing or more offset you probably won't rub, but should still get intrusion beams in my opinion.

 

[Lost19Ranger]

I have zero offset with 4.75" of backspacing. If you have less backspacing or more offset you probably won't rub, but should still get intrusion beams in my opinion.

so would I want to go with a +12 or a -offset?

 

[FocoRanger]

so would I want to go with a +12 or a -offset?

Positive offset will keep the centerline of the wheel closer in towards the truck. Negative offset will push it farther out.

 

[sam793]

Hey y'all, new guy to the forum here. Here's the current build: 2019 Ranger XLT, Method 309 NVs (17x8.5, 4.75"BS), 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3, Fox 2.0 coilovers and rear matching shocks.
So I put the wheels and tires on, thought I did enough research to avoid rubbing, but lone behold I rub at full crank turning right. I could never find anything on the ReadyLift High Clearance Intrusion Beams offered from Stage 3 Motorsports so I figure I'll post it up here.
I don't have before pictures, but rub was pretty bad on front beams at full crank. Not as bad on rear. OEM Intrusion beam removal is pretty straight forward, but definitely not "easy". I used a cut off wheel for as much as I could and had to Sawzall the rest which sucked. Went through 3 blades for the front two beams.
The ReadyLift beams are pretty beefy, and slide right in (one took a little tapping from rubber mallet). I only got the front two done cause the back are gonna be a little more tricky to Sawzall. But there is so much more clearance. Here's the pics.

Looks like just what I'm looking for. How was the install. I'm having a shop take out the existing crash bars but am unsure if I would be able to install these myself.
Truck looks great!

 

[FocoRanger]

Looks like just what I'm looking for. How was the install. I'm having a shop take out the existing crash bars but am unsure if I would be able to install these myself.
Truck looks great!

Thanks! Installing them should be really easy. Just need a couple wrenches and something to tap them into place.

 

[sam793]

Thanks! Installing them should be really easy. Just need a couple wrenches and something to tap them into place.

So they can be installed without removing the fender or bumper?

 

[Simon Says]

Old topic but still relevant.

I got a tremor and a set of Method 703 17x8.5 +35 offset and 6,2" backspacing that i will install this spring.

Even stock, it is very tight with the factory crash bars. I will keep the same size tires (265/70/17).

The new setup will push the tire only a 1/2 inch out. It will definitely rub on the front crash bar but not sure for the rear. So i purchased these Readylift beams.

The Ford dealer where i purchased the truck will make the install, but since their hourly rate is really expensive (135$/h), i thought i would only ask them to install the front bars. Reading your posts about installing the rear bars make me believe it will cost me a lot.

A 1" front lift will also be installed at the same time.

Any of you have a similar setup, or close to it? In your opinion, do you think i'll have rubbing with my new setup on the stock rear crash bars?

 

[Dr. Zaius]

I'm running 265/70/17 on a 17x9 wheel with +20 offset.

No rubbing on stock crash bars.

Since you'll be running +35 wheels I don't think you'll experience any issues.

While every truck may be a little different and YMMV, I don't think you'll really need the aftermarket crash bars with your setup.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Old topic but still relevant.

I got a tremor and a set of Method 703 17x8.5 +35 offset and 6,2" backspacing that i will install this spring.

Even stock, it is very tight with the factory crash bars. I will keep the same size tires (265/70/17).

The new setup will push the tire only a 1/2 inch out. It will definitely rub on the front crash bar but not sure for the rear. So i purchased these Readylift beams.

The Ford dealer where i purchased the truck will make the install, but since their hourly rate is really expensive (135$/h), i thought i would only ask them to install the front bars. Reading your posts about installing the rear bars make me believe it will cost me a lot.

A 1" front lift will also be installed at the same time.

Any of you have a similar setup, or close to it? In your opinion, do you think i'll have rubbing with my new setup on the stock rear crash bars?

Honestly Simon, there are better threads on here that explain how to properly remove front and rear crash bars without hacking up parts of your truck. It requires a bit of patience but only minimal skill and tools are needed.

However, that setup seems like it will be fine without any rubbing. I’d mount it all up and test for issues first. If you find any, do a bit more research here and tackle the job yourself.

Bonne chance

Is this your work truck?

 

[Simon Says]

I'm running 265/70/17 on a 17x9 wheel with +20 offset.

No rubbing on stock crash bars.

Since you'll be running +35 wheels I don't think you'll experience any issues.

While every truck may be a little different and YMMV, I don't think you'll really need the aftermarket crash bars with your setup.

Quite surprised you don't get any rubbing. I don't even see an 1/2 inch of space between the tire and front bar at full turn on my stock setup. Thanks, i might wait and test fit before and ask for a refund on the crash bars if it fits perfectly without it.

Sponsored