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"Bad Heater Assembly"

AzScorpion

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I can tell you from 30 years of experience that taking the dash apart is a recipe for continued dash interior rattles. It is a plague in the industry to get it right upon removal and reassembly. We at access to incredible mechanics in the Experimental Garage and they will tell you that it is impossible to get it right most times. As an NVH engineer, I spent so much time derattling Dash Removals...We always got it, but the time was sometimes in days or weeks. The flocking etc is almost like a one time deal...

Best,
Phil
I know some here have had good luck with theirs not rattling afterwards but I didn't want to chance it. Luckily the manual fix was easy enough to do ( about 30-40 minutes) and now it's only a 10-15 minute job to manually change it from cold to hot twice a year.

No way I wanted to chance having it rattle then have the dealer take my truck for days if not weeks trying to get it right and potentially scratching my interior up. Most dealers can't do a simple oil change now never mind tear my dash out. :eek:
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MountainGoat

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I know some here have had good luck with theirs not rattling afterwards but I didn't want to chance it. Luckily the manual fix was easy enough to do ( about 30-40 minutes) and now it's only a 10-15 minute job to manually change it from cold to hot twice a year.

No way I wanted to chance having it rattle then have the dealer take my truck for days if not weeks trying to get it right and potentially scratching my interior up. Most dealers can't do a simple oil change now never mind tear my dash out. :eek:
So you just reach up there and crank the actuator over to change the temp?
 

AzScorpion

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So you just reach up there and crank the actuator over to change the temp?
There's a metal knob where the actuator sits on. Once the actuator is taken off you just turn the knob up for cooling and down for heat.

Post #25 shows how to remove the broken actuator in the link I posted above. After that's out this is how you change it over. The white plastic piece it the broken actuator which I left on to make it easier to switch. Behind that is the metal knob it rests on.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-your-ranger-today.3511/page-1078#post-497982
 

MountainGoat

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There's a metal knob where the actuator sits on. Once the actuator is taken off you just turn the knob up for cooling and down for heat.

Post #25 shows how to remove the broken actuator in the link I posted above. After that's out this is how you change it over. The white plastic piece it the broken actuator which I left on to make it easier to switch. Behind that is the metal knob it rests on.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-your-ranger-today.3511/page-1078#post-497982
Sweet! That looks like a piece of cake compared to the alternative.
 

AzScorpion

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Sweet! That looks like a piece of cake compared to the alternative.
It is. The only real PITA is when you first take the actuator out you have to drill the metal support to get to the lower screw. Oh, and there's not a lot of room to work with laying on your back with your head on the brake pedal. lol

I use a long screwdriver to rotate the broken white plastic piece up & down. There's not much room with the supports in the way to get your hand up in there.
 


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RavenRanger19

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@RavinRanger19
can you look up your build date (door pillar or maybe in your paperwork) I thought I read that during the ‘19 production a running change was made by the supplier to address the heater box from warping and causing malfunctions with the blend doors.
Just curios to compare to my build date, ( mainly cause im ocd and worry about things like this o_O
Thanks.
Build date was July 2019
 

AzScorpion

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@RavinRanger19
can you look up your build date (door pillar or maybe in your paperwork) I thought I read that during the ‘19 production a running change was made by the supplier to address the heater box from warping and causing malfunctions with the blend doors.
Just curios to compare to my build date, ( mainly cause im ocd and worry about things like this o_O
Thanks.
It effects all of the 2019's and some 2020's. The change wasn't made until mid 2020.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...h-clicking-snapping-noise-from-the-dash.9659/

SSM 49264 - 2019-2020 Ranger - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash - Built On Or Before 30-Jul-2020
 
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RavenRanger19

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Got the truck back tonight. AC is working again. However, this morning I got an alert on my Ford Pass App that the parking sensors failed. Figured they were pulling plugs so that was understandable. When I got the call it was ready, I asked about that and was told, no bid deal, it's fixed. It wasn't. I checked it before I pulled away from the service department, nothing. Pulled it back in and got the service advisor back out. After about 4 different people worked on it, they figured out the wire for the parking sensors was not connected. The Ford Pass App was telling the truth!

It specifically said in the Description of Service "Per SSM 50629 Do Not replace actuator, Replace Air Distribution Heater Housing R and I Evap core housing".
 

Muffin1

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It effects all of the 2019's and some 2020's. The change wasn't made until mid 2020.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...h-clicking-snapping-noise-from-the-dash.9659/
I was talking about the heater box warping issue;
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/2019-heater-box-failed-getting-rid-of-this-truck.17369/
Or they may be the same i was just looking back at some older threads, and i think should be clear with the July 30th cutoff date for affected trucks, since mine is a August build.
 
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AzScorpion

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Muffin1

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They're the same issue. The box gets heated up and warps then the actuator breaks.
OK got it , thanks for clearing that up, for me so far so good lol.
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