Ranger Tremor Upfitter Switches

[ccasanova22]

Greetings,

New to the forum and just purchased a '22 Ranger Tremor XLT. I was wondering if the factory upfitter switches can be used for light loads, such as a small <275W audio amplifier?

My XLT did not come with the B&O sound system and I'm thinking of adding a JL Audio Stealthbox under the passenger seat with a small (JD250.1) amplifier driven from the 25A upfitter switch (Switch #1).

I have no desires for "ghetto blaster" style bass, just want something to round out the factory system (with quick, accurate low end) for classic rock and the like. My previous vehicles had a Kicker 200W with a single 10" sub and Alpine 200W with a 12" sub and they were plenty, although wired directly to the battery + and chassis.

Would I be "pushing it" drawing close to the 25A maximum using upfitter switch #1?

I'd like to be able to turn off the sub at any given time when pulling into quiet areas late at night, such as campsites, but don't want to overload the relay or wiring if possible. I also may consider a <200W amp due to the JL's efficiency.

Thanks!

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[Danager]

While it wouldn’t be best to use to supply the constant voltage an amp would need, you could use output 4, 5, or 6 to trigger the “remote input”. That may induce some noise, so there may be a desire to change.

Many on here have been frustrated with trying to get a wire through the firewall. Know that all the upfitter switch outputs are under the hood.

 

[Dereku]

Wire it up to a relay off the battery. Probably the only safe way to wire any switch in a vehicle. Unless the tremors have relays and connections under the hood. I really don’t know.

 

[Dgc333]

Wire it up to a relay off the battery. Probably the only safe way to wire any switch in a vehicle. Unless the tremors have relays and connections under the hood. I really don’t know.

The upfitter switches on the Tremor activate relays up front under the hood. There is a relay/fuse panel with pigtails for each switch between the battery and core support. They have different current ratings and I believe one of them is 25 amps. It is covered in the manual.

 

[Dereku]

The upfitter switches on the Tremor activate relays up front under the hood. There is a relay/fuse panel with pigtails for each switch between the battery and core support. They have different current ratings and I believe one of them is 25 amps. It is covered in the manual.

Ok well that max working load for the circuit would be 300 watts. You are technically within the operating window, but its close.

 

[ccasanova22]

Thanks for the replies, looks like a 200W power amp with 25A fuse would be perfect for Switch 1, or if I can swing a more expensive amp with a remote turn-on, Switch 6 would work great to trigger the amp. Just have to remember to turn the switch off when sitting in "ACC" or "ON" but not "RUN" mode.

Although I've only had the Tremor for a few weeks, enjoying it so far, and like how Ford gave us the switches to add lights/winch/off-road accessories without having to drill holes in the dash.

Haven't looked at the cable path to get wire through the firewall, hoping it's not much harder than a few hours worth of work. I may have a car audio shop do this if the cable path is THAT difficult...

ccasanova22

 

[ccasanova22]

Can anyone confirm that a small amp ~200W would work on Switch 1 when used for a light duty cycle application (small under seat sub)? I won’t be pounding it but also don’t want to blow a fuse.

Would I need to switch the Forscan rear EQ off to get full range audio and if so, does that mean the rear speakers will have to be replaced?

Trying to (a) add a powered sub with just the rears set to EQ disable and (b) try to use Upfitter Switch 1. Also (c) if the factory system is high passed at say 80Hz would a sub barely work? Does anybody know the high pass frequency of the factory non-B&O audio and what the dB/octave is?

 

[maxbottomtime]

Why do you want to use the switches vs just running a remote line (or relying on a LoC type remote sensor)?

 

[ccasanova22]

Why do you want to use the switches vs just running a remote line (or relying on a LoC type remote sensor)?

To have the ability to turn off the sub when driving in neighborhoods or at camp sites where it’s after hours or I am leaving early.

Yes, I could do the same with a remote sub level control but I’d like to keep the dash as stock looking as possible.

Also, even a stock system in cars with sub can be heard outside with Bass at unity, so I’m hoping there’s a way to use the switch to “quiet” the sub at night.

 

[maxbottomtime]

To have the ability to turn off the sub when driving in neighborhoods or at camp sites where it’s after hours or I am leaving early.

Yes, I could do the same with a remote sub level control but I’d like to keep the dash as stock looking as possible.

Also, even a stock system in cars with sub can be heard outside with Bass at unity, so I’m hoping there’s a way to use the switch to “quiet” the sub at night.

I mean you do you, but I'd think the volume control on your head unit might accomplish the same thing. My sub setup does have a remote which i have stuffed under the seat - haven't touched it in the last year or so.

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