Long term reliability of the 2.3

Superdannyboy

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I would presume they just changed the range the O2 sensor works on or entered some kind of constant value. We were doing that on Mustangs with much more basic tuning back in the day.
Yea but now they can't so I'll put a non fouler spark plug for the O2 sensor maybe.
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FunInTheSun

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Fun fact. Suzuki motorcycles and atv’s back in the early 2000’s to even now have automatic fuel valves for the carburetor equipped models. They operate off of engine vacuum and when they fail (roughly every 5 years or so) fuel dumps into the crankcase mixing with oil. Most people are oblivious of it happening until the engine is hard to start from vapor locking.

Working in the powersports industry at a Suzuki dealer I don’t know how many dirt bikes and ATV’s I saw with severely diluted engine oil. Like 5 to 1 gas to oil or worse and I never saw an engine need rebuilding or even show signs of premature wear from that. If you don’t believe me google ”Suzuki petcock failure”

So a tiny bit of gas in the oil is 0 concern to me
Just a quick story, only tangentially related to the subject of the thread.

I had a 1990 Yamaha with the same problem. It hydro-locked twice, but I didn't recognize what was going on. Thought I had a bad starter or some electrical problem with the wiring, switches, etc. I figured it out after it got so bad that wouldn't idle after it got fully warmed up.

I got stranded on my way to work, because one time it stalled at a light and wouldn't restart. I happened to check the oil level and because it's just a sight glass, I thought there was no oil, and I thought I has seized the engine or something. But when I pulled off the cap to check, it was waaaayy over full, and an overwhelming smell of gas. That's when the penny dropped, and all of the symptoms clicked. So I waited for it to cool off and rode it back home.

I rebuilt the shutoff valve, and refilled the oil with fresh. It was probably 25% diluted, (almost an extra quart in a 3-1/2 quart sump) and the gas vapors were so strong, they were backing up into the cylinders from the oil film on the cylinder walls, upsetting the idle mixture.

Crazy. Has nothing to do with this engine, though. I was more concerned about the effects on the wet clutch than the engine internals, though.
 

HTX1811

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Bob902

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ControlNode

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Floyd

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geez, you car pooled with that guy for a long time
Actually after a while, I picked up a second carpooler and a used Fairmont. I used that as an excuse to drive the Fairmont every day, and just collect gas money from them. That worked out fine after I forced the new guy to ride in the back seat to keep his hands off of the controls!:crazy:
I told him that a car can only have one driver but I could tolerate a backseat driver as well, if i could just turn the radio up. ;)
When I told the original guy that he had to ride in the front seat from then on, his reply was...
"Hell! For this money I'd be glad to ride in the trunk!"
I later moved to another nearby town and the carpool dissolved, but I still had to be prepared to seek the left lane on short notice whenever I approached a Chevette from behind on the highway!:giggle:

I worked that job and with this crew for 35 years and we were pretty good friends.
A job often throws divergent personalities together (as we all know)!:clap:
 
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McLeadslinger

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The 2.0 and 2.3 Ecoboost engines have been around for quite a while with only problems coming from the Focus RS. My focus RS suffered the blown Head gasket issues with only 2,000 miles on it. Those motors are built and assembled in a separate plant from the rest.
 

the5Gmartian

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This is my first Ford vehicle that i’ve owned after being a die hard Chevy guy and I have no worry about reliability. I have had some issues with the truck, but all were very minor and silly (fender alignment, parking brake boot ripped). I think the powertrain is absolutely fantastic and I think people need to quit doing oil analysis reports at 2,000 miles and just drive the damn thing, it’s not even broken in yet. You have a 50,000 mile warranty so use it!
 

C.moore01

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86k on mine and the only issue I have is the heated seat quit working on drivers side . I change the oil every 10k or when the iolm tells me .. it’s been a great truck so far, still on the original brakes
 

Coyote Chaser

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1. Electric wastegate will give the ECU finer control over the boost curve - better.
Orientation of compressor outlet is for packaging everything under the hood - wash.
2. Intake manifold is for packaging under the hood - wash.
3. Oil filter orientation is for packaging - wash. Oil cooler is a plus for engine long term reliability - better.
4. Engine driven fan, not sure why they did that, maybe for improved airflow - wash.
5. Cylinder Head mods for improved cooling will improve long term reliability and support the extra load on the engine when towing - better.
Dave, Have you seen any information about new connecting rods for the 2020+ motor? All I have is this video...
Screenshot_2021-11-19-10-39-22.png
 
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Coyote Chaser

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Screenshot_2021-11-20-08-35-34.png

Based on the video... The rod on the left is the 2020+ Ranger (and maybe mustang) the rod on the right is 2019 and earlier.
I did confirm that the rods available today for a 2019 and earlier 2.3 ecoboost have a replacement number (same number as 2020+ rods) and also found some NOS rods (with the old number) listed for the 2.3 ecoboost 2015-2019...? But that's it, still nothing official!
PS: I am looking for a new Ranger with a 7500 tow package. Still keeping the Mustangs, just upgrading my pick-up truck!!
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