supercab seat delete: need advice on sound proofing

[T-Wrecks]

Once you know how the seats come off only takes five minutes.

If that, there's only 1 bolt per seat back.

Sponsored

 

[Sandman Ranger]

Ya'll need some hook points higher on the board so you can bungee strap cargo in place. Or use big plastic tubs with lids to throw gear in.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I did my own rear seat delete because I needed room for tool cases. I used large high-density foam floor tiles (the interlocking type from Home Depot) cut it to shape to fill all those recessed areas and the vents, then doubled up the whole rear panel afterward. Used a large rubber-backed utility mat (Home Depot) to cover the back - slipped it under the plastic trim panels in the corners, cut slits for the old seat brackets. Used black plastic trim push-plugs where old seats were fastened - re-used the child seat mounting bolts and made panels for the sides and on top of the storage compartments - dropped the short seatbelt straps into the storage bins. Made a simple loop of the utility mat to cover where the plastic panels end at the top of each corner (tucked behind panel and velcro'd in place) Side panels and storage cover are velcro'd in place as well. I can fit more than a dozen DeWALT tool cases back there and nothing gets scratched up! Can't drill or screw into it to mount things but that wasn't my intention. All-in Cost: $72 CAD/~$50 USD.

Updated: Pics showing how my tool cases fit in.

 

[HenryMac]

I did my own rear seat delete because I needed room for tool cases. I used large high-density foam floor tiles (the interlocking type from Home Depot) cut it to shape to fill all those recessed areas and the vents, then doubled up the whole rear panel afterward. Used a large rubber-backed utility mat (Home Depot) to cover the back - slipped it under the plastic trim panels in the corners, cut slits for the old seat brackets. Used black plastic trim push-plugs where old seats were fastened - re-used the child seat mounting bolts and made panels for the sides and on top of the storage compartments - dropped the short seatbelt straps into the storage bins. Made a simple loop of the utility mat to cover where the plastic panels end at the top of each corner (tucked behind panel and velcro'd in place) Side panels and storage cover are velcro'd in place as well. I can fit six or eight DeWalt tool cases back there and nothing gets scratched up! Can't drill or screw into it but that wasn't my intention. All-in Cost: $72 CAD/~$50 USD.

So you blocked the vents?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

So you blocked the vents?

Not completely "blocked". I left them open at first but there was WAY too much road noise. I figured if the seat backs and people sitting in them can restrict the vents, so could the foam, so I covered the vents with the foam. The road noise disappeared and the foam is loose enough to still allow the cabin air to be discharged when shutting doors or when an airbag deploys.

 

[LightingBlue]

As somebody who has found expanding foam shot into various places inside of cars, I do suggest you stay away from expanding foam. It goes in easily enough, but after that it's a ticking time bomb. Dead baby rats, insects, mold, you name it, i've found it inside pockets where expanding foam had been eaten away, or water had leaked into it for who knows how long....

That being said, the odds of a modern car such as this being on the road in 50-70 years is minuscule.

I just don't think anything positive will come from using expanding foam here. The sound deadening mats are so good and will dampen that better than foam will. Or you could look into painting Por15 onto the metal panels. It will prevent rust, soundproof and provide you the surface protection you're looking for in one go of it. That stuff has been around for decades (with improvements and an expanded product line).

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Is road noise improved from stock configuration ?

Also, how much depth did you gain ?

No noticeable improvement in road noise from stock - could be better, could be worse. I did the conversion within days of buying the truck, so I didn't have a chance to get any true sense of a baseline. The depth and height I gained was three to four inches each way. The issue for me wasn't just the extra room but the ability to have flat surfaces for plenty of tool cases and to use the area without ruining the seats and side panels.

 

[charwest]

No noticeable improvement in road noise from stock - could be better, could be worse. I did the conversion within days of buying the truck, so I didn't have a chance to get any true sense of a baseline. The depth and height I gained was three to four inches each way. The issue for me wasn't just the extra room but the ability to have flat surfaces for plenty of tool cases and to use the area without ruining the seats and side panels.

seat:

3 to 5” height gained.

seat back:

3 to 4” depth gained.

minus an inch in my configuration for half inch plywood and half inch insulation.

my road noise seems same as stock.

 

[charwest]

Ya'll need some hook points higher on the board so you can bungee strap cargo in place. Or use big plastic tubs with lids to throw gear in.

yup. here is the current modular bolt-on version.

three milk crates accessible from right rear door and driver/passenger seats, plus as many ring bolts and bungees as needed. my toolbox sits centered and back and the cooler has straps bolted on and opens to the left rear door.

ain’t pretty but it works and things won’t go anywhere on a rough road. and we can move things around depending on how we like the storage.

we could bolt the milk crates up higher but that would obscure the rear view

the lower crate is raised enough off the seat bottom that i can open and get into the under seat storage easily.

we’ll see how it goes.

edit: no idea why my photos keep uploading sideways. oh well.

 

[armoredpig]

I attached jump seats to my plywood. The seats rest on the storage compartments in the down position.

For road noise, I put acoustic egg crate foam between the vents and the board. It's not working very well and I'll have to block off the vents a little more. I'm not convinced any sound deadening will work because it's mostly sound from the vents that I'm hearing..

 

[armoredpig]

I took it all apart and added more acoustic foam around the vents to go with my closed cell sleeping mat.

Also added a molle panel for more storage.

It's quieter than it was with just the bed mat and the plywood. I think it's about what it sounded like with the stock seats in place. Everything else still seems to work fine.

 

[armoredpig]

Nice work.

Did you notice if those vents are baffled so air can only travel out from the cab ?

The interior would be remarkably quiet without the noise from those vents.

Wonder where those vents are located in other vehicles . . .

Yes, it looks like the flaps act as out only valves, but they're so light that anytime the fan is on, there's an open hole to the outside for road noise and exhaust noise to get in.

Funny how well the seats work to block the noise!

 

[HenryMac]

Yes, it looks like the flaps act as out only valves, but they're so light that anytime the fan is on, there's an open hole to the outside for road noise and exhaust noise to get in.

Funny how well the seats work to block the noise!

When air bags deploy the cab pressure increases dramatically. That's the main function of the vents on the back of the cab, to dissipate air pressure.

If the vents are blocked in any way that increase in pressure is a danger to the occupants of the vehicle.

 

[FunInTheSun]

How do the seats come out? I don't even see any screws on mine. Can you post some more details on how and where they are attached, and if you have some suggestions / warnings to avoid breaking stuff, that'd be very welcome. Interior work always scares me because even when you're doing it the right way, it always feels like it's on the edge of breaking. I want to be able to reinstall the seats occasionally if that even makes sense.

 

[Tom_C]

How do the seats come out? I don't even see any screws on mine. Can you post some more details on how and where they are attached, and if you have some suggestions / warnings to avoid breaking stuff, that'd be very welcome. Interior work always scares me because even when you're doing it the right way, it always feels like it's on the edge of breaking. I want to be able to reinstall the seats occasionally if that even makes sense.

I'm not interested to remove the seats but would like to know this, too. I know there is a bolt at the top of the seat back behind the straps for seat carriers.... in the 'hole' at the top of the seat. I removed that bolt and tugged and pulled, but couldn't get the seat back off. Some other people said to remove the bolt and then lift up on the seat back. I haven't gone back to try again.

Sponsored