The Weekend Warrior

Sunpilot

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Ill be installing the Stage 5 kit next weekend.. after reading about the issue of getting the bolt in place im a bit worried now haha. Ill have to give it a good fight and see what happens.
I did my right (passenger) side yesterday. Going to football game today, so I'll do the left side tomorrow. I can say I had absolutely no problem removing and installing the long UCA bolt. Hopefully it will be the same on the driver's side. On the right side there is a heat shield behind the UCA but it can be easily bent back with your finger. You can see the heat shield to the back side of the top of the shock tower in the picture below. My biggest problem with the install was getting the original shocks out, and I only have 500 miles on my truck. I'll post a write up and pics in a few days.

20191207_123956.jpg
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Canadian Ranger XLT

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There’s a bunch of them on eBay sold mostly by Thailand tuning shops so buy at your own risk! I have no idea which one my dealer went with. Here are a few links of the screw in ones.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/FIT-2012-Fo...950726&hash=item35ee460146:g:t3kAAOSw9N1VsLZp

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Aluminum-Re...216819?hash=item4d4dd3ef73:g:zcwAAOSwB09YFh4X

Alot of them are made of cheap ABS plastic. Make sure you order a real aluminum part!

Also, dont know what that means exactly but most of the ads I see when using the website have been taken down when using the App instead (??)
I’m hoping to update my build soon. Icon suspension kit has finally shipped. It hit a little unexpected delay at the border but was resolved, should be receiving this week hopefully.

Wildtrack roof bars are in from Thailand, so will install my Rhino-Rack platform on the roof at the same time I bring it in for the suspension work and wheels and tires.
Hey I recently just ordered the wildtrack roof rails from Thailand as well. When it came to installing them did you do them yourself or did the dealer? I live in Canada as well and the dealer said they wouldn’t install them because you have to drill into the roof. I know there isn’t any predrilled holes from factory so was looking for some tips before I go ahead and try it myself. How did you determine where to drill holes? Thanks! P.s sweet truck
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Hey I recently just ordered the wildtrack roof rails from Thailand as well. When it came to installing them did you do them yourself or did the dealer? I live in Canada as well and the dealer said they wouldn’t install them because you have to drill into the roof. I know there isn’t any predrilled holes from factory so was looking for some tips before I go ahead and try it myself. How did you determine where to drill holes? Thanks! P.s sweet truck
hey Sorry for the late reply! Haven’t been in here in months.
I’m lucky enough to have a somewhat fearless dealer when it comes to accessories and customizing. I believe the only drilling is to remove the factory rivets that hold the black molding in place. I dont believe there is any drilling through the sheet metal itself. But I cant help you passed that cause I have the work done by the dealer.
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Hey guys back from the dead! lol

Haven’t been on here lately because over the winter we converted this...

F5D9D8BE-09D0-4CA8-8F2F-DC5B0FBDA83B.jpeg


into that ...

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and so been doing a lot of this ...

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and my trusted Ranger has been along for the ride ...

F5B990F5-BE61-4720-AF06-1CF2171625B7.jpeg


On this subject I have to say that I’m very pleased with the Ranger’s towing ability. The car is just under 2800# and the trailer around 1100# and it performs very well. Of course because of the lift kit and size and weight of the tires I have to be careful not to accelerate from a stand still too quickly otherwise I get significant driveline vibrations. Since I intend to keep it for a while I “try” not to stomp it too often!
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Finally using my Wildtrack roof bars. Just purchased a SUP and kayak and this is what that looks like:

18021C5F-2439-4379-9CB4-7F4FC2D94CED.jpeg


Because of the height of the truck with 3” lift and 34” tires I had to get the Thule Hullavator. Initially tried a conventional J-rack but even at 6’ tall I was unable to reach the cradle. It’s even a hard job with 2 people!
With this though, makes it easy to load even my awkwardly shaped and heavy (65#) SUP. Here’s a pic with the kayak:

680A7659-120D-427D-83EB-3BC95BBA5DC4.jpeg


So far very satisfied with it. Here’s a look from the back with my “2nd” roof rack installation (over the bed):

AF008905-4C99-461D-9B68-19098869557E.jpeg
 


cfhgarza

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Hunting season is just around the corner. I’m afraid this nice 8 pointer might be a target!! ?

34D93176-EBF1-414D-A86E-3271E326C025.jpeg
Does the US spec Ranger have mounting points for the Roof rack or do you have to drill?
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Does the US spec Ranger have mounting points for the Roof rack or do you have to drill?
You have to drill through the rivets holding down the drip rail moulding
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Here I go again fiddling with my bed rack system for the 100th time!. Was keeping my Rhino-Rack platform for the roof but after many months of waiting on legs to fit the Wildtrack bars turns out I was sold a “bastard” tray that can only be mounted using Rhino-Rack’s Backbone mount and I’m not changing my bars. So decided to ditch the bike racks (up for sale) and install my platform on the bed. I will most probably look into installing a Yakima platform to my roof. There are 2 advantages to this:
1- need a 54” width to fit my Thule Hullavators for my Kayak and SUP (needs to overlap the bars by 100mm to fit over mirrors when folded down).
2- wont need to run “accessory bars” for attachments like the Hullavators like on the Rhino-Racks because the Yakima T-rails run perpendicular to the roof (like normal cross-bars) instead of the longitudinal of the Rhino-Rack (Aussies are such contrarians! lol).

2A985E24-9EDC-4FEA-BCBC-B7D581DED114.jpeg

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Will most probably purchase Rhino-Rack’s Maxtrax side mount to free up space on top of the platform but I had my Yakima mounts lying around from when I had the Overhaul HD on the bed so it’ll do fine for now.
And also my spare is finally at a height that prevents it from landing in the cab and killing us in case of a frontal collision, kind of important!
 
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tehschkott

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Thanks for the info! I installed my Icon shocks on my Raptor and nothing was straight forward. Drilling, grinding, and tapering were required front and rear. I installed several UCAs and tie-rods as well. I ran an RPG Stage 4+ setup (6 shocks, Fox bump stops, UCAs, Dual-Shock LCAs, tie-rods, RPG steel frame support, and Deaver +3 springs). You’ll appreciate the new spring pack you ordered!

I’m not sure how hard you’re going to run your Ranger; but the bump stops, frame support, and bed braces are a must for jumping. It’s the only way to truly protect your frame and bed. A trained eye can easily spot a truck’s telltale signs of jump damage (or even donkey kicks). Ford actually stopped showing Raptor commercials that showed the truck hitting jumps.

upload_2019-10-18_16-36-26.png


upload_2019-10-18_17-34-49.jpeg
Talk me through your bed stiffener there. I have a... thing I'm doing and I'm lead to understand the stiffeners here are a valuable component. What is it, where can I get one?
 

tehschkott

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Here I go again fiddling with my bed rack system for the 100th time!. Was keeping my Rhino-Rack platform for the roof but after many months of waiting on legs to fit the Wildtrack bars turns out I was sold a “bastard” tray that can only be mounted using Rhino-Rack’s Backbone mount and I’m not changing my bars. So decided to ditch the bike racks (up for sale) and install my platform on the bed. I will most probably look into installing a Yakima platform to my roof. There are 2 advantages to this:
1- need a 54” width to fit my Thule Hullavators for my Kayak and SUP (needs to overlap the bars by 100mm to fit over mirrors when folded down).
2- wont need to run “accessory bars” for attachments like the Hullavators like on the Rhino-Racks because the Yakima T-rails run perpendicular to the roof (like normal cross-bars) instead of the longitudinal of the Rhino-Rack (Aussies are such contrarians! lol).

2A985E24-9EDC-4FEA-BCBC-B7D581DED114.jpeg

5435D95D-9320-4E04-AD80-E15AF52EC4D2.jpeg

2804B8E2-856E-43E6-B264-53DF1497E5A3.jpeg

FA4FDF3B-EC78-4498-9592-768F3656BD73.jpeg

Will most probably purchase Rhino-Rack’s Maxtrax side mount to free up space on top of the platform but I had my Yakima mounts lying around from when I had the Overhaul HD on the bed so it’ll do fine for now.
And also my spare is finally at a height that prevents it from landing in the cab and killing us in case of a frontal collision, kind of important!
This is such a choice build. I'm really digging it.
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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This is such a choice build. I'm really digging it.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks!
 

RangerRaptor

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Talk me through your bed stiffener there. I have a... thing I'm doing and I'm lead to understand the stiffeners here are a valuable component. What is it, where can I get one?
The rear of the bed is open, not connected left to right like the front of the bed. It’s free standing except when the tailgate is closed. But the tailgate has a lot of play on both sides. If you get airborne and your rear lands hard, it can cause the rear of the bed to spread open further. The bed braces connect the bed walls to the bed floor, acting much like the bed wall behind the cab. So the bed can’t separate.

I bought mine from Texas Motor Works about six years ago. They were specifically designed for the Ford Raptor. I’m sure someone could make one for the Ranger. Mine had quick disconnect pins which allows the braces to be removed if you needed to haul something wide in your truck bed.
 

tehschkott

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Alright, more context. I have a deposit down on a camper pop-up and most of the Tacoma's I see with this same unit use bed stiffeners. So I've really no interest in jumping, but the weight of this thing over time, if you're off roading with it, seems to push things outward.
 

Andrew King

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Had to vent cause I’m back to running stock tires since April 1st because warm weather (and local bylaws) prevent me from running my studded winter tires. Now truck looks really stupid with big flares and skinny tires!

BTW 295/70R17 don’t fit with just a level kit, there’s a slight rub at full lock and when suspension is articulating, Will need the full 3-3.5 inch from the suspension lift. A 295/70 is roughly half an inch higher than a 33x12.5. Plus with the -12et on my Fuel wheels I’m a lot closer to the fenders.
Is the rubbing from the crash bars
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